Coral Reefs
Charles Darwin

Part 1 out of 5

This etext was prepared by Sue Asscher




Although in some respects more technical in their subjects and style than
Darwin's "Journal," the books here reprinted will never lose their value
and interest for the originality of the observations they contain. Many
parts of them are admirably adapted for giving an insight into problems
regarding the structure and changes of the earth's surface, and in fact
they form a charming introduction to physical geology and physiography in
their application to special domains. The books themselves cannot be
obtained for many times the price of the present volume, and both the
general reader, who desires to know more of Darwin's work, and the student
of geology, who naturally wishes to know how a master mind reasoned on most
important geological subjects, will be glad of the opportunity of
possessing them in a convenient and cheap form.

The three introductions, which my friend Professor Judd has kindly
furnished, give critical and historical information which makes this
edition of special value.







Corals on the outer margin.--Zone of Nulliporae.--Exterior reef.--Islets.--
Coral-conglomerate.--Lagoon.--Calcareous sediment.--Scari and Holuthuriae
subsisting on corals.--Changes in the condition of the reefs and islets.--
Probable subsidence of the atoll.--Future state of the lagoon.

General form and size of atolls, their reefs and islets.--External slope.--
Zone of Nulliporae.--Conglomerate.--Depth of lagoons.--Sediment.--Reefs
submerged wholly or in part.--Breaches in the reef.--Ledge-formed shores
round certain lagoons.--Conversion of lagoons into land.

Maldiva Archipelago.--Ring-formed reefs, marginal and central.--Great
depths in the lagoons of the southern atolls.--Reefs in the lagoons all
rising to the surface.--Position of islets and breaches in the reefs, with
respect to the prevalent winds and action of the waves.--Destruction of
islets.--Connection in the position and submarine foundation of distinct
atolls.--The apparent disseverment of large atolls.--The Great Chagos
Bank.--Its submerged condition and extraordinary structure.

Closely resemble in general form and structure atoll-reefs.--Width and
depth of the lagoon-channels.--Breaches through the reef in front of
valleys, and generally on the leeward side.--Checks to the filling up of
the lagoon-channels.--Size and constitution of the encircled islands.--
Number of islands within the same reef.--Barrier-reefs of New Caledonia and
Australia.--Position of the reef relative to the slope of the adjoining
land.--Probable great thickness of barrier-reefs.

Reefs of Mauritius.--Shallow channel within the reef.--Its slow filling
up.--Currents of water formed within it.--Upraised reefs.--Narrow
fringing-reefs in deep seas.--Reefs on the coast of E. Africa and of
Brazil.--Fringing-reefs in very shallow seas, round banks of sediment and
on worn-down islands.--Fringing-reefs affected by currents of the sea.
--Coral coating the bottom of the sea, but not forming reefs.





The atolls of the larger archipelagoes are not formed on submerged craters,
or on banks of sediment.--Immense areas interspersed with atolls.--Recent
changes in their state.--The origin of barrier-reefs and of atolls.--Their
relative forms.--The step-formed ledges and walls round the shores of some
lagoons.--The ring-formed reefs of the Maldiva atolls.--The submerged
condition of parts or of the whole of some annular reefs.--The disseverment
of large atolls.--The union of atolls by linear reefs.--The Great Chagos
Bank.--Objections, from the area and amount of subsidence required by the
theory, considered.--The probable composition of the lower parts of atolls.

Description of the coloured map.--Proximity of atolls and barrier-reefs.--
Relation in form and position of atolls with ordinary islands.--Direct
evidence of subsidence difficult to be detected.--Proofs of recent
elevation where fringing-reefs occur.--Oscillations of level.--Absence of
active volcanoes in the areas of subsidence.--Immensity of the areas which
have been elevated and have subsided.--Their relation to the present
distribution of the land.--Areas of subsidence elongated, their
intersection and alternation with those of elevation.--Amount and slow rate
of the subsidence.--Recapitulation.

Containing a detailed description of the reefs and islands in Plate III.




A scientific discovery is the outcome of an interesting process of
evolution in the mind of its author. When we are able to detect the germs
of thought in which such a discovery has originated, and to trace the
successive stages of the reasoning by which the crude idea has developed
into an epoch-making book, we have the materials for reconstructing an
important chapter of scientific history. Such a contribution to the story
of the "making of science" may be furnished in respect to Darwin's famous
theory of coral-reefs, and the clearly reasoned treatise in which it was
first fully set forth.

The subject of corals and coral-reefs is one concerning which much popular
misconception has always prevailed. The misleading comparison of coral-rock
with the combs of bees and the nests of wasps is perhaps responsible
for much of this misunderstanding; one writer has indeed described a
coral-reef as being "built by fishes by means of their teeth." Scarcely
less misleading, however, are the references we so frequently meet with,
both in prose and verse, to the "skill," "industry," and "perseverance" of
the "coral-insect" in "building" his "home." As well might we praise men
for their cleverness in making their own skeletons, and laud their assiduity
in filling churchyards with the same. The polyps and other organisms, whose
remains accumulate to form a coral-reef, simply live and perform their
natural functions, and then die, leaving behind them, in the natural course
of events, the hard calcareous portions of their structures to add to the
growing reef.

While the forms of coral-reefs and coral-islands are sometimes very
remarkable and worthy of attentive study, there is no ground, it need
scarcely be added, for the suggestion that they afford proofs of design on
the part of the living builders, or that, in the words of Flinders, they
constitute breastworks, defending the workshops from whence "infant
colonies might be safely sent forth."

It was not till the beginning of the present century that travellers like
Beechey, Chamisso, Quoy and Gaimard, Moresby, Nelson, and others, began to
collect accurate details concerning the forms and structure of coral-masses,
and to make such observations on the habits of reef-forming polyps,
as might serve as a basis for safe reasoning concerning the origin of
coral-reefs and islands. In the second volume of Lyell's "Principles of
Geology," published in 1832, the final chapter gives an admirable summary
of all that was then known on the subject. At that time, the ring-form of
the atolls was almost universally regarded as a proof that they had grown
up on submerged volcanic craters; and Lyell gave his powerful support to
that theory.

Charles Darwin was never tired of acknowledging his indebtedness to Lyell.
In dedicating to his friend the second edition of his "Naturalist's Voyage
Round the World," Darwin writes that he does so "with grateful pleasure, as
an acknowledgment that the chief part of whatever scientific merit this
journal and the other works of the author may possess, has been derived
from studying the well-known and admirable 'Principles of Geology.'"

The second volume of Lyell's "Principles" appeared after Darwin had left
England; but it was doubtless sent on to him without delay by his faithful
friend and correspondent, Professor Henslow. It appears to have reached
Darwin at a most opportune moment, while, in fact, he was studying the
striking evidences of slow and long-continued, but often interrupted
movement on the west coast of South America. Darwin's acute mind could not
fail to detect the weakness of the then prevalent theory concerning the
origin of the ring-shaped atolls--and the difficulty which he found in
accepting the volcanic theory, as an explanation of the phenomena of
coral-reefs, is well set forth in his book.

In an interesting fragment of autobiography, Darwin has given us a very
clear account of the way in which the leading idea of the theory of
coral-reefs originated in his mind; he writes, "No other work of mine was
begun in so deductive a spirit as this, for the whole theory was thought
out on the west coast of South America, before I had seen a true
coral-reef. I had therefore only to verify and extend my views by a
careful examination of living reefs. But it should be observed that I had
during the two previous years been incessantly attending to the effects on
the shores of South America of the intermittent elevation of the land,
together with the denudation and deposition of sediment. This necessarily
led me to reflect much on the effects of subsidence, and it was easy to
replace in imagination the continued deposition of sediment by the upward
growth of corals. To do this was to form my theory of the formation of
barrier-reefs and atolls."

On her homeward voyage, the "Beagle" visited Tahiti, Australia, and some of
the coral-islands in the Indian Ocean, and Darwin had an opportunity of
testing and verifying the conclusion at which he had arrived by studying
the statements of other observers.

I well recollect a remarkable conversation I had with Darwin, shortly after
the death of Lyell. With characteristic modesty, he told me that he never
fully realised the importance of his theory of coral-reefs till he had an
opportunity of discussing it with Lyell, shortly after the return of the
"Beagle". Lyell, on receiving from the lips of its author a sketch of the
new theory, was so overcome with delight that he danced about and threw
himself into the wildest contortions, as was his manner when excessively
pleased. He wrote shortly afterwards to Darwin as follows:--"I could think
of nothing for days after your lesson on coral-reefs, but of the tops of
submerged continents. It is all true, but do not flatter yourself that you
will be believed till you are growing bald like me, with hard work and
vexation at the incredulity of the world." On May 24th, 1837, Lyell wrote
to Sir John Herschel as follows:--"I am very full of Darwin's new theory of
coral-islands, and have urged Whewell to make him read it at our next
meeting. I must give up my volcanic crater forever, though it cost me a
pang at first, for it accounted for so much." Dr. Whewell was president of
the Geological Society at the time, and on May 31st, 1837, Darwin read a
paper entitled "On Certain Areas of Elevation and Subsidence in the Pacific
and Indian oceans, as deduced from the Study of Coral Formations," an
abstract of which appeared in the second volume of the Society's

It was about this time that Darwin, having settled himself in lodgings at
Great Marlborough Street, commenced the writing of his book on "Coral-Reefs."
Many delays from ill-health and the interruption of other work,
caused the progress to be slow, and his journal speaks of "recommencing"
the subject in February 1839, shortly after his marriage, and again in
October of the same year. In July 1841, he states that he began once more
"after more than thirteen month's interval," and the last proof-sheet of
the book was not corrected till May 6th, 1842. Darwin writes in his
autobiography, "This book, though a small one, cost me twenty months of
hard work, as I had to read every work on the islands of the Pacific, and
to consult many charts." The task of elaborating and writing out his books
was, with Darwin, always a very slow and laborious one; but it is clear
that in accomplishing the work now under consideration, there was a long
and constant struggle with the lethargy and weakness resulting from the sad
condition of his health at that time.

Lyell's anticipation that the theory of coral-reefs would be slow in
meeting with general acceptance was certainly not justified by the actual
facts. On the contrary the new book was at once received with general
assent among both geologists and zoologists, and even attracted a
considerable amount of attention from the general public.

It was not long before the coral-reef theory of Darwin found an able
exponent and sturdy champion in the person of the great American
naturalist, Professor James D. Dana. Two years after the return of the
"Beagle" to England, the ships of the United States Exploring Expedition
set sail upon their four years' cruise, under the command of Captain
Wilkes, and Dana was a member of the scientific staff. When, in 1839, the
expedition arrived at Sydney, a newspaper paragraph was found which gave
the American naturalist the first intimation of Darwin's new theory of the
origin of atolls and barrier-reefs. Writing in 1872, Dana describes the
effect produced on his mind by reading this passage:--"The paragraph threw
a flood of light over the subject, and called forth feelings of peculiar
satisfaction, and of gratefulness to Mr. Darwin, which still come up afresh
whenever the subject of coral islands is mentioned. The Gambier Islands in
the Paumotus, which gave him the key to the theory, I had not seen; but on
reaching the Feejees, six months later, in 1840, I found there similar
facts on a still grander scale and of a more diversified character, so that
I was afterward enabled to speak of his theory as established with more
positiveness than he himself, in his philosophic caution, had been ready to
adopt. His work on coral-reefs appeared in 1842, when my report on the
subject was already in manuscript. It showed that the conclusions on other
points, which we had independently reached, were for the most part the
same. The principal points of difference relate to the reason for the
absence of corals from some coasts, and the evidence therefrom as to
changes of level, and the distribution of the oceanic regions of elevation
and subsidence--topics which a wide range of travel over the Pacific
brought directly and constantly to my attention."

Among the Reports of the United States Exploring Expedition, two important
works from the pen of Professor Dana made their appearance;--one on
"Zoophytes," which treats at length on "Corals and Coral-Animals," and the
other on "Coral-Reefs and Islands." In 1872, Dana prepared a work of a
more popular character in which some of the chief results of his studies
are described; it bore the title of "Corals and Coral-Islands." Of this
work, new and enlarged editions appeared in 1874 and 1890 in America, while
two editions were published in this country in 1872 and 1875. In all these
works their author, while maintaining an independent judgment on certain
matters of detail, warmly defends the views of Darwin on all points
essential to the theory.

Another able exponent and illustrator of the theory of coral-reefs was
found in Professor J.B. Jukes, who accompanied H.M.S. "Fly", as naturalist,
during the survey of the Great Barrier-Reef--in the years 1842 to 1846.
Jukes, who was a man of great acuteness as well as independence of mind,
concludes his account of the great Australian reefs with the following
words:--"After seeing much of the Great Barrier-Reefs, and reflecting much
upon them, and trying if it were possible by any means to evade the
conclusions to which Mr. Darwin has come, I cannot help adding that his
hypothesis is perfectly satisfactory to my mind, and rises beyond a mere
hypothesis into the true theory of coral-reefs."

As the result of the clear exposition of the subject by Darwin, Lyell,
Dana, and Jukes, the theory of coral-reefs had, by the middle of the
present century, commanded the almost universal assent of both biologists
and geologists. In 1859 Baron von Richthofen brought forward new facts in
its support, by showing that the existence of the thick masses of dolomitic
limestone in the Tyrol could be best accounted for if they were regarded as
of coralline origin and as being formed during a period of long continued
subsidence. The same views were maintained by Professor Mojsisovics in his
"Dolomit-riffe von Sudtirol und Venetien," which appeared in 1879.

The first serious note of dissent to the generally accepted theory was
heard in 1863, when a distinguished German naturalist, Dr. Karl Semper,
declared that his study of the Pelew Islands showed that uninterrupted
subsidence could not have been going on in that region. Dr. Semper's
objections were very carefully considered by Mr. Darwin, and a reply to
them appeared in the second and revised edition of his "Coral-Reefs," which
was published in 1874. With characteristic frankness and freedom from
prejudice, Darwin admitted that the facts brought forward by Dr. Semper
proved that in certain specified cases, subsidence could not have played
the chief part in originating the peculiar forms of the coral-islands. But
while making this admission, he firmly maintained that exceptional cases,
like those described in the Pelew Islands, were not sufficient to
invalidate the theory of subsidence as applied to the widely spread atolls,
encircling reefs, and barrier-reefs of the Pacific and Indian Oceans. It
is worthy of note that to the end of his life Darwin maintained a friendly
correspondence with Semper concerning the points on which they were at

After the appearance of Semper's work, Dr. J.J. Rein published an account
of the Bermudas, in which he opposed the interpretation of the structure of
the islands given by Nelson and other authors, and maintained that the
facts observed in them are opposed to the views of Darwin. Although, so
far as I am aware, Darwin had no opportunity of studying and considering
these particular objections, it may be mentioned that two American
geologists have since carefully re-examined the district--Professor W.N.
Rice in 1884 and Professor A. Heilprin in 1889--and they have independently
arrived at the conclusion that Dr. Rein's objections cannot be maintained.

The most serious opposition to Darwin's coral-reef theory, however, was
that which developed itself after the return of H.M.S. "Challenger" from
her famous voyage. Mr. John Murray, one of the staff of naturalists on
board that vessel, propounded a new theory of coral-reefs, and maintained
that the view that they were formed by subsidence was one that was no
longer tenable; these objections have been supported by Professor Alexander
Agassiz in the United States, and by Dr. A. Geikie, and Dr. H.B. Guppy in
this country.

Although Mr. Darwin did not live to bring out a third edition of his
"Coral-Reefs," I know from several conversations with him that he had given
the most patient and thoughtful consideration to Mr. Murray's paper on the
subject. He admitted to me that had he known, when he wrote his work, of
the abundant deposition of the remains of calcareous organisms on the sea
floor, he might have regarded this cause as sufficient in a few cases to
raise the summits of submerged volcanoes or other mountains to a level at
which reef-forming corals can commence to flourish. But he did not think
that the admission that under certain favourable conditions, atolls might
be thus formed without subsidence, necessitated an abandonment of his
theory in the case of the innumerable examples of the kind which stud the
Indian and Pacific Oceans.

A letter written by Darwin to Professor Alexander Agassiz in May 1881 shows
exactly the attitude which careful consideration of the subject led him to
maintain towards the theory propounded by Mr. Murray:--"You will have
seen," he writes, "Mr. Murray's views on the formation of atolls and
barrier-reefs. Before publishing my book, I thought long over the same
view, but only as far as ordinary marine organisms are concerned, for at
that time little was known of the multitude of minute oceanic organisms. I
rejected this view, as from the few dredgings made in the "Beagle", in the
south temperate regions, I concluded that shells, the smaller corals, etc.,
decayed and were dissolved when not protected by the deposition of
sediment, and sediment could not accumulate in the open ocean. Certainly,
shells, etc., were in several cases completely rotten, and crumbled into
mud between my fingers; but you will know whether this is in any degree
common. I have expressly said that a bank at the proper depth would give
rise to an atoll, which could not be distinguished from one formed during
subsidence. I can, however, hardly believe in the existence of as many
banks (there having been no subsidence) as there are atolls in the great
oceans, within a reasonable depth, on which minute oceanic organisms could
have accumulated to the depth of many hundred feet."

Darwin's concluding words in the same letter written within a year of his
death, are a striking proof of the candour and openness of mind which he
preserved so well to the end, in this as in other controversies.

"If I am wrong, the sooner I am knocked on the head and annihilated so much
the better. It still seems to me a marvellous thing that there should not
have been much, and long-continued, subsidence in the beds of the great
oceans. I wish some doubly rich millionaire would take it into his head to
have borings made in some of the Pacific and Indian atolls, and bring home
cores for slicing from a depth of 500 or 600 feet."

It is noteworthy that the objections to Darwin's theory have for the most
part proceeded from zoologists, while those who have fully appreciated the
geological aspect of the question, have been the staunchest supporters of
the theory of subsidence. The desirability of such boring operations in
atolls has been insisted upon by several geologists, and it may be hoped
that before many years have passed away, Darwin's hopes may be realised,
either with or without the intervention of the "doubly rich millionaire."

Three years after the death of Darwin, the veteran Professor Dana
re-entered the lists and contributed a powerful defence of the theory of
subsidence in the form of a reply to an essay written by the ablest
exponent of the anti-Darwinian views on this subject, Dr. A. Geikie. While
pointing out that the Darwinian position had been to a great extent
misunderstood by its opponents, he showed that the rival theory presented
even greater difficulties than those which it professed to remove.

During the last five years, the whole question of the origin of coral-reefs
and islands has been re-opened, and a controversy has arisen, into which,
unfortunately, acrimonious elements have been very unnecessarily
introduced. Those who desire it, will find clear and impartial statements
of the varied and often mutually destructive views put forward by different
authors, in three works which have made their appearance within the last
year,--"The Bermuda Islands," by Professor Angelo Heilprin; "Corals and
Coral-Islands," new edition by Professor J.D. Dana; and the third edition
of Darwin's "Coral-Reefs," with Notes and Appendix by Professor T.G.

Most readers will, I think, rise from the perusal of these works with the
conviction that, while on certain points of detail it is clear that,
through the want of knowledge concerning the action of marine organisms in
the open ocean, Darwin was betrayed into some grave errors, yet the main
foundations of his argument have not been seriously impaired by the new
facts observed in the deep-sea researches, or by the severe criticism to
which his theory has been subjected during the last ten years. On the
other hand, I think it will appear that much misapprehension has been
exhibited by some of Darwin's critics, as to what his views and arguments
really were; so that the reprint and wide circulation of the book in its
original form is greatly to be desired, and cannot but be attended with
advantage to all those who will have the fairness to acquaint themselves
with Darwin's views at first hand, before attempting to reply to them.




The object of this volume is to describe from my own observation and the
works of others, the principal kinds of coral-reefs, more especially those
occurring in the open ocean, and to explain the origin of their peculiar
forms. I do not here treat of the polypifers, which construct these vast
works, except so far as relates to their distribution, and to the
conditions favourable to their vigorous growth. Without any distinct
intention to classify coral-reefs, most voyagers have spoken of them under
the following heads: "lagoon-islands," or "atolls," "barrier" or
"encircling reefs," and "fringing" or "shore-reefs." The lagoon-islands
have received much the most attention; and it is not surprising, for every
one must be struck with astonishment, when he first beholds one of these
vast rings of coral-rock, often many leagues in diameter, here and there
surmounted by a low verdant island with dazzling white shores, bathed on
the outside by the foaming breakers of the ocean, and on the inside
surrounding a calm expanse of water, which from reflection, is of a bright
but pale green colour. The naturalist will feel this astonishment more
deeply after having examined the soft and almost gelatinous bodies of these
apparently insignificant creatures, and when he knows that the solid reef
increases only on the outer edge, which day and night is lashed by the
breakers of an ocean never at rest. Well did Francois Pyrard de Laval, in
the year 1605, exclaim, "C'est une merueille de voir chacun de ces
atollons, enuironne d'un grand banc de pierre tout autour, n'y ayant point
d'artifice humain." The accompanying sketch of Whitsunday island, in the
South Pacific, taken from Captain Beechey's admirable "Voyage," although
excellent of its kind, gives but a faint idea of the singular aspect of one
of these lagoon-islands.


Whitsunday Island is of small size, and the whole circle has been converted
into land, which is a comparatively rare circumstance. As the reef of a
lagoon-island generally supports many separate small islands, the word
"island," applied to the whole, is often the cause of confusion; hence I
have invariably used in this volume the term "atoll," which is the name
given to these circular groups of coral-islets by their inhabitants in the
Indian Ocean, and is synonymous with "lagoon-island."


Barrier-reefs, when encircling small islands, have been comparatively
little noticed by voyagers; but they well deserve attention. In their
structure they are little less marvellous than atolls, and they give a
singular and most picturesque character to the scenery of the islands they
surround. In the accompanying sketch, taken from the "Voyage of the
'Coquille'," the reef is seen from within, from one of the high peaks of
the island of Bolabola. (I have taken the liberty of simplifying the
foreground, and leaving out a mountainous island in the far distance.)
Here, as in Whitsunday Island, the whole of that part of the reef which is
visible is converted into land. This is a circumstance of rare occurrence;
more usually a snow-white line of great breakers, with here and there an
islet crowned by cocoa-nut trees, separates the smooth waters of the
lagoon-like channel from the waves of the open sea. The barrier-reefs of
Australia and of New Caledonia, owing to their enormous dimensions, have
excited much attention: in structure and form they resemble those
encircling many of the smaller islands in the Pacific Ocean.

With respect to fringing, or shore-reefs, there is little in their
structure which needs explanation; and their name expresses their
comparatively small extension. They differ from barrier-reefs in not lying
so far from the shore, and in not having within a broad channel of deep
water. Reefs also occur around submerged banks of sediment and of worn-down
rock; and others are scattered quite irregularly where the sea is very
shallow; these in most respects are allied to those of the fringing class,
but they are of comparatively little interest.

I have given a separate chapter to each of the above classes, and have
described some one reef or island, on which I possessed most information,
as typical; and have afterwards compared it with others of a like kind.
Although this classification is useful from being obvious, and from
including most of the coral-reefs existing in the open sea, it admits of a
more fundamental division into barrier and atoll-formed reefs on the one
hand, where there is a great apparent difficulty with respect to the
foundation on which they must first have grown; and into fringing-reefs on
the other, where, owing to the nature of the slope of the adjoining land,
there is no such difficulty. The two blue tints and the red colour
(replaced by numbers in this edition.) on the map (Plate III.), represent
this main division, as explained in the beginning of the last chapter. In
the Appendix, every existing coral-reef, except some on the coast of Brazil
not included in the map, is briefly described in geographical order, as far
as I possessed information; and any particular spot may be found by
consulting the Index.

Several theories have been advanced to explain the origin of atolls or
lagoon-islands, but scarcely one to account for barrier-reefs. From the
limited depths at which reef-building polypifers can flourish, taken into
consideration with certain other circumstances, we are compelled to
conclude, as it will be seen, that both in atolls and barrier-reefs, the
foundation on which the coral was primarily attached, has subsided; and
that during this downward movement, the reefs have grown upwards. This
conclusion, it will be further seen, explains most satisfactorily the
outline and general form of atolls and barrier-reefs, and likewise certain
peculiarities in their structure. The distribution, also, of the different
kinds of coral-reefs, and their position with relation to the areas of
recent elevation, and to the points subject to volcanic eruptions, fully
accord with this theory of their origin. (A brief account of my views on
coral formations, now published in my Journal of Researches, was read May
31st, 1837, before the Geological Society, and an abstract has appeared in
the Proceedings.)



In the several original surveys, from which the small plans on this plate
have been reduced, the coral-reefs are engraved in very different styles.
For the sake of uniformity, I have adopted the style used in the charts of
the Chagos Archipelago, published by the East Indian Company, from the
survey by Captain Moresby and Lieutenant Powell. The surface of the reef,
which dries at low water, is represented by a surface with small crosses:
the coral-islets on the reef are marked by small linear spaces, on which a
few cocoa-nut trees, out of all proportion too large, have been introduced
for the sake of clearness. The entire ANNULAR REEF, which when surrounding
an open expanse of water, forms an "atoll," and when surrounding one or
more high islands, forms an encircling "barrier-reef," has a nearly uniform
structure. The reefs in some of the original surveys are represented
merely by a single line with crosses, so that their breadth is not given; I
have had such reefs engraved of the width usually attained by coral-reefs.
I have not thought it worth while to introduce all those small and very
numerous reefs, which occur within the lagoons of most atolls and within
the lagoon-channels of most barrier-reefs, and which stand either isolated,
or are attached to the shores of the reef or land. At Peros Banhos none of
the lagoon-reefs rise to the surface of the water; a few of them have
been introduced, and are marked by plain dotted circles. A few of the
deepest soundings are laid down within each reef; they are in fathoms, of
six English feet.

Figure 1.--VANIKORO, situated in the western part of the South Pacific;
taken from the survey by Captain D'Urville in the "Astrolabe;" the
soundings on the southern side of the island, namely, from thirty to forty
fathoms, are given from the voyage of the Chev. Dillon; the other soundings
are laid down from the survey by D'Urville; height of the summit of the
island is 3,032 feet. The principal small detached reefs within the
lagoon-channel have in this instance been represented. The southern shore
of the island is narrowly fringed by a reef: if the engraver had carried
this reef entirely round both islands, this figure would have served (by
leaving out in imagination the barrier-reef) as a good specimen of an
abruptly-sided island, surrounded by a reef of the fringing class.

Figure 2.--HOGOLEU, or ROUG, in the Caroline Archipelago; taken from the
"Atlas of the Voyage of the 'Astrolabe,'" compiled from the surveys of
Captains Duperrey and D'Urville; the depth of the immense lagoon-like space
within the reef is not known.

Figure 3.--RAIATEA, in the Society Archipelago; from the map given in the
quarto edition of "Cook's First Voyage;" it is probably not accurate.

Figure 4.--BOW, or HEYOU ATOLL (or lagoon-island), in the Low Archipelago,
from the survey by Captain Beechey, R.N.; the lagoon is choked up with
reefs, but the average greatest depth of about twenty fathoms, is given
from the published account of the voyage.

Figure 5.--BOLABOLA, in the Society Archipelago, from the survey of Captain
Duperrey in the "Coquille:" the soundings in this and the following figures
have been altered from French feet to English fathoms; height of highest
point of the island 4,026 feet.

Figure 6.--MAURUA, in the Society Archipelago; from the survey by Captain
Duperrey in the "Coquille:" height of land about eight hundred feet.

Figure 7.--POUYNIPETE, or SENIAVINE, in the Caroline Archipelago; from the
survey by Admiral Lutke.

Figure 8.--GAMBIER ISLANDS, in the southern part of the Low Archipelago;
from the survey by Captain Beechey; height of highest island, 1,246 feet;
the islands are surrounded by extensive and irregular reefs; the reef on
the southern side is submerged.

Figure 9.--PEROS BANHOS ATOLL (or lagoon-island), in the Chagos group in
the Indian Ocean; from the survey by Captain Moresby and Lieutenant Powell;
not nearly all the small submerged reefs in the lagoon are represented; the
annular reef on the southern side is submerged.

Figure 10.--KEELING, or COCOS ATOLL (or lagoon-island), in the Indian
Ocean; from the survey by Captain Fitzroy; the lagoon south of the dotted
line is very shallow, and is left almost bare at low water; the part north
of the line is choked up with irregular reefs. The annular reef on the
north-west side is broken, and blends into a shoal sandbank, on which the
sea breaks.



Corals on the outer margin.--Zone of Nulliporae.--Exterior reef.--Islets.--
Coral-conglomerate.--Lagoon.--Calcareous sediment.--Scari and Holuthuriae
subsisting on corals.--Changes in the condition of the reefs and islets.--
Probable subsidence of the atoll.--Future state of the lagoon.


A.--Level of the sea at low water: where the letter A is placed, the depth
is twenty-five fathoms, and the distance rather more than one hundred and
fifty yards from the edge of the reef.

B.--Outer edge of that flat part of the reef, which dries at low water:
the edge either consists of a convex mound, as represented, or of rugged
points, like those a little farther seaward, beneath the water.

C.--A flat of coral-rock, covered at high water.

D.--A low projecting ledge of brecciated coral-rock washed by the waves at
high water.

E.--A slope of loose fragments, reached by the sea only during gales: the
upper part, which is from six to twelve feet high, is clothed with
vegetation. The surface of the islet gently slopes to the lagoon.

F.--Level of the lagoon at low water.

KEELING or COCOS atoll is situated in the Indian Ocean, in 12 deg 5' S.,
and longitude 90 deg 55' E.: a reduced chart of it was made from the
survey of Captain Fitzroy and the Officers of H.M.S. "Beagle," is given in
Plate I., Figure 10. The greatest width of this atoll is nine miles and a
half. Its structure is in most respects characteristic of the class to
which it belongs, with the exception of the shallowness of the lagoon. The
accompanying woodcut represents a vertical section, supposed to be drawn at
low water from the outer coast across one of the low islets (one being
taken of average dimensions) to within the lagoon.

The section is true to the scale in a horizontal line, but it could not be
made so in a vertical one, as the average greatest height of the land is
only between six and twelve feet above high-water mark.

I will describe the section, commencing with the outer margin. I must
first observe that the reef-building polypifers, not being tidal animals,
require to be constantly submerged or washed by the breakers. I was
assured by Mr. Liesk, a very intelligent resident on these islands, as well
as by some chiefs at Tahiti (Otaheite), that an exposure to the rays of the
sun for a very short time invariably causes their destruction. Hence it is
possible only under the most favourable circumstances, afforded by an
unusually low tide and smooth water, to reach the outer margin, where the
coral is alive. I succeeded only twice in gaining this part, and found it
almost entirely composed of a living Porites, which forms great irregularly
rounded masses (like those of an Astraea, but larger) from four to eight
feet broad, and little less in thickness. These mounds are separated from
each other by narrow crooked channels, about six feet deep, most of which
intersect the line of reef at right angles. On the furthest mound, which I
was able to reach by the aid of a leaping-pole, and over which the sea
broke with some violence, although the day was quite calm and the tide low,
the polypifers in the uppermost cells were all dead, but between three and
four inches lower down on its side they were living, and formed a
projecting border round the upper and dead surface. The coral being thus
checked in its upward growth, extends laterally, and hence most of the
masses, especially those a little further inwards, had broad flat dead
summits. On the other hand I could see, during the recoil of the breakers,
that a few yards further seaward, the whole convex surface of the Porites
was alive; so that the point where we were standing was almost on the exact
upward and shoreward limit of existence of those corals which form the
outer margin of the reef. We shall presently see that there are other
organic productions, fitted to bear a somewhat longer exposure to the air
and sun.

Next, but much inferior in importance to the Porites, is the Millepora
complanata. (This Millepora (Palmipora of Blainville), as well as the M.
alcicornis, possesses the singular property of stinging the skin where it
is delicate, as on the face and arm.)

It grows in thick vertical plates, intersecting each other at various
angles, and forms an exceedingly strong honeycombed mass, which generally
affects a circular form, the marginal plates alone being alive. Between
these plates and in the protected crevices on the reef, a multitude of
branching zoophytes and other productions flourish, but the Porites and
Millepora alone seem able to resist the fury of the breakers on its upper
and outer edge: at the depth of a few fathoms other kinds of stony corals
live. Mr. Liesk, who was intimately acquainted with every part of this
reef, and likewise with that of North Keeling atoll, assured me that these
corals invariably compose the outer margin. The lagoon is inhabited by
quite a distinct set of corals, generally brittle and thinly branched; but
a Porites, apparently of the same species with that on the outside, is
found there, although it does not seem to thrive, and certainly does not
attain the thousandth part in bulk of the masses opposed to the breakers.

The woodcut shows the form of the bottom off the reef: the water deepens
for a space between one and two hundred yards wide, very gradually to
twenty-five fathoms (A in section), beyond which the sides plunge into the
unfathomable ocean at an angle of 45 deg. (The soundings from which this
section is laid down were taken with great care by Captain Fitzroy himself.
He used a bell-shaped lead, having a diameter of four inches, and the
armings each time were cut off and brought on board for me to examine. The
arming is a preparation of tallow, placed in the concavity at the bottom of
the lead. Sand, and even small fragments of rock, will adhere to it; and
if the bottom be of rock it brings up an exact impression of its surface.)
To the depth of ten or twelve fathoms the bottom is exceedingly rugged, and
seems formed of great masses of living coral, similar to those on the
margin. The arming of the lead here invariably came up quite clean, but
deeply indented, and chains and anchors which were lowered, in the hopes of
tearing up the coral, were broken. Many small fragments, however, of
Millepora alcicornis were brought up; and on the arming from an eight-fathom
cast, there was a perfect impression of an Astraea, apparently
alive. I examined the rolled fragments cast on the beach during gales, in
order further to ascertain what corals grew outside the reef. The
fragments consisted of many kinds, of which the Porites already mentioned
and a Madrepora, apparently the M. corymbosa, were the most abundant. As I
searched in vain in the hollows on the reef and in the lagoon, for a living
specimen of this Madrepore, I conclude that it is confined to a zone
outside, and beneath the surface, where it must be very abundant.
Fragments of the Millepora alcicornis and of an Astraea were also numerous;
the former is found, but not in proportionate numbers, in the hollows on
the reef; but the Astraea I did not see living. Hence we may infer, that
these are the kinds of coral which form the rugged sloping surface
(represented in the woodcut by an uneven line), round and beneath the
external margin. Between twelve and twenty fathoms the arming came up an
equal number of times smoothed with sand, and indented with coral: an
anchor and lead were lost at the respective depths of thirteen and sixteen
fathoms. Out of twenty-five soundings taken at a greater depth than twenty
fathoms, every one showed that the bottom was covered with sand; whereas,
at a less depth than twelve fathoms, every sounding showed that it was
exceedingly rugged, and free from all extraneous particles. Two soundings
were obtained at the depth of 360 fathoms, and several between two hundred
and three hundred fathoms. The sand brought up from these depths consisted
of finely triturated fragments of stony zoophytes, but not, as far as I
could distinguish, of a particle of any lamelliform genus: fragments of
shells were rare.

At a distance of 2,200 yards from the breakers, Captain Fitzroy found no
bottom with a line of 7,200 feet in length; hence the submarine slope of
this coral formation is steeper than that of any volcanic cone. Off the
mouth of the lagoon, and likewise off the northern point of the atoll,
where the currents act violently, the inclination, owing to the
accumulation of sediment, is less. As the arming of the lead from all the
greater depths showed a smooth sandy bottom, I at first concluded that the
whole consisted of a vast conical pile of calcareous sand, but the sudden
increase of depth at some points, and the circumstance of the line having
been cut, as if rubbed, when between five hundred and six hundred fathoms
were out, indicate the probable existence of submarine cliffs.

On the margin of the reef, close within the line where the upper surface of
the Porites and of the Millepora is dead, three species of Nullipora
flourish. One grows in thin sheets, like a lichen on old trees; the second
in stony knobs, as thick as a man's finger, radiating from a common centre;
and the third, which is less common, in a moss-like reticulation of thin,
but perfectly rigid branches. (This last species is of a beautiful bright
peach-blossom colour. Its branches are about as thick as crow-quills; they
are slightly flattened and knobbed at the extremities. The extremities
only are alive and brightly coloured. The two other species are of a dirty
purplish-white. The second species is extremely hard; its short knob-like
branches are cylindrical, and do not grow thicker at their extremities.)
The three species occur either separately or mingled together; and they
form by their successive growth a layer two or three feet in thickness,
which in some cases is hard, but where formed of the lichen-like kind,
readily yields an impression to the hammer: the surface is of a reddish
colour. These Nulliporae, although able to exist above the limit of true
corals, seem to require to be bathed during the greater part of each tide
by breaking water, for they are not found in any abundance in the protected
hollows on the back part of the reef, where they might be immersed either
during the whole or an equal proportional time of each tide. It is
remarkable that organic productions of such extreme simplicity, for the
Nulliporae undoubtedly belong to one of the lowest classes of the vegetable
kingdom, should be limited to a zone so peculiarly circumstanced. Hence
the layer composed by their growth merely fringes the reef for a space of
about twenty yards in width, either under the form of separate mammillated
projections, where the outer masses of coral are separate, or, more
commonly, where the corals are united into a solid margin, as a continuous
smooth convex mound (B in woodcut), like an artificial breakwater. Both
the mound and mammillated projections stand about three feet higher than
any other part of the reef, by which term I do not include the islets,
formed by the accumulation of rolled fragments. We shall hereafter see
that other coral reefs are protected by a similar thick growth of
Nulliporae on the outer margin, the part most exposed to the breakers, and
this must effectually aid in preserving it from being worn down.

The woodcut represents a section across one of the islets on the reef, but
if all that part which is above the level of C were removed, the section
would be that of a simple reef, as it occurs where no islet has been
formed. It is this reef which essentially forms the atoll. It is a ring,
enclosing the lagoon on all sides except at the northern end, where there
are two open spaces, through one of which ships can enter. The reef varies
in width from two hundred and fifty to five hundred yards, its surface is
level, or very slightly inclined towards the lagoon, and at high tide the
sea breaks entirely over it: the water at low tide thrown by the breakers
on the reef, is carried by the many narrow and shoal gullies or channels on
its surface, into the lagoon: a return stream sets out of the lagoon
through the main entrance. The most frequent coral in the hollows on the
reef is Pocillopora verrucosa, which grows in short sinuous plates, or
branches, and when alive is of a beautiful pale lake-red: a Madrepora,
closely allied or identical with M. pocillifera, is also common. As soon
as an islet is formed, and the waves are prevented breaking entirely over
the reef, the channels and hollows in it become filled up with cemented
fragments, and its surface is converted into a hard smooth floor (C of
woodcut), like an artificial one of freestone. This flat surface varies in
width from one hundred to two hundred, or even three hundred yards, and is
strewed with a few large fragments of coral torn up during gales: it is
uncovered only at low water. I could with difficulty, and only by the aid
of a chisel, procure chips of rock from its surface, and therefore could
not ascertain how much of it is formed by the aggregation of detritus, and
how much by the outward growth of mounds of corals, similar to those now
living on the margin. Nothing can be more singular than the appearance at
low tide of this "flat" of naked stone, especially where it is externally
bounded by the smooth convex mound of Nulliporae, appearing like a
breakwater built to resist the waves, which are constantly throwing over it
sheets of foaming water. The characteristic appearance of this "flat" is
shown in the foregoing woodcut of Whitsunday atoll.

The islets on the reef are first formed between two hundred and three
hundred yards from its outer edge, through the accumulation of a pile of
fragments, thrown together by some unusually strong gale. Their ordinary
width is under a quarter of a mile, and their length varies from a few
yards to several miles. Those on the south-east and windward side of the
atoll, increase solely by the addition of fragments on their outer side;
hence the loose blocks of coral, of which their surface is composed, as
well as the shells mingled with them, almost exclusively consist of those
kinds which live on the outer coast. The highest part of the islets
(excepting hillocks of blown sand, some of which are thirty feet high), is
close to the outer beach (E of the woodcut), and averages from six to ten
feet above ordinary high-water mark. From the outer beach the surface
slopes gently to the shores of the lagoon, which no doubt has been caused
by the breakers the further they have rolled over the reef, having had less
power to throw up fragments. The little waves of the lagoon heap up sand
and fragments of thinly-branched corals on the inner side of the islets on
the leeward side of the atoll; and these islets are broader than those to
windward, some being even eight hundred yards in width; but the land thus
added is very low. The fragments beneath the surface are cemented into a
solid mass, which is exposed as a ledge (D of the woodcut), projecting some
yards in front of the outer shore and from two to four feet high. This
ledge is just reached by the waves at ordinary high-water: it extends in
front of all the islets, and everywhere has a water-worn and scooped
appearance. The fragments of coral which are occasionally cast on the
"flat" are during gales of unusual violence swept together on the beach,
where the waves each day at high-water tend to remove and gradually wear
them down; but the lower fragments having become firmly cemented together
by the percolation of calcareous matter, resist the daily tides longer, and
hence project as a ledge. The cemented mass is generally of a white
colour, but in some few parts reddish from ferruginous matter; it is very
hard, and is sonorous under the hammer; it is obscurely divided by seams,
dipping at a small angle seaward; it consists of fragments of the corals
which grow on the outer margin, some quite and others partially rounded,
some small and others between two and three feet across; and of masses of
previously formed conglomerate, torn up, rounded, and re-cemented; or it
consists of a calcareous sandstone, entirely composed of rounded particles,
generally almost blended together, of shells, corals, the spines of echini,
and other such organic bodies; rocks, of this latter kind, occur on many
shores, where there are no coral reefs. The structure of the coral in the
conglomerate has generally been much obscured by the infiltration of
spathose calcareous matter; and I collected a very interesting series,
beginning with fragments of unaltered coral, and ending with others, where
it was impossible to discover with the naked eye any trace of organic
structure. In some specimens I was unable, even with the aid of a lens,
and by wetting them, to distinguish the boundaries of the altered coral and
spathose limestone. Many even of the blocks of coral lying loose on the
beach, had their central parts altered and infiltrated.

The lagoon alone remains to be described; it is much shallower than that of
most atolls of considerable size. The southern part is almost filled up
with banks of mud and fields of coral, both dead and alive, but there are
considerable spaces, between three and four fathoms, and smaller basins,
from eight to ten fathoms deep. Probably about half its area consists of
sediment, and half of coral-reefs. The corals composing these reefs have a
very different aspect from those on the outside; they are very numerous in
kind, and most of them are thinly branched. Meandrina, however, lives in
the lagoon, and great rounded masses of this coral are numerous, lying
quite or almost loose on the bottom. The other commonest kinds consist of
three closely allied species of true Madrepora in thin branches; of
Seriatapora subulata; two species of Porites (This Porites has somewhat the
habit of P. clavaria, but the branches are not knobbed at their ends. When
alive it is of a yellow colour, but after having been washed in fresh water
and placed to dry, a jet-black slimy substance exuded from the entire
surface, so that the specimen now appears as if it had been dipped in ink.)
with cylindrical branches, one of which forms circular clumps, with the
exterior branches only alive; and lastly, a coral something like an
Explanaria, but with stars on both surfaces, growing in thin, brittle,
stony, foliaceous expansions, especially in the deeper basins of the
lagoon. The reefs on which these corals grow are very irregular in form,
are full of cavities, and have not a solid flat surface of dead rock, like
that surrounding the lagoon; nor can they be nearly so hard, for the
inhabitants made with crowbars a channel of considerable length through
these reefs, in which a schooner, built on the S.E. islet, was floated out.
It is a very interesting circumstance, pointed out to us by Mr. Liesk, that
this channel, although made less than ten years before our visit, was then,
as we saw, almost choked up with living coral, so that fresh excavations
would be absolutely necessary to allow another vessel to pass through it.

The sediment from the deepest parts in the lagoon, when wet, appeared
chalky, but when dry, like very fine sand. Large soft banks of similar,
but even finer grained mud, occur on the S.E. shore of the lagoon,
affording a thick growth of a Fucus, on which turtle feed: this mud,
although discoloured by vegetable matter, appears from its entire solution
in acids to be purely calcareous. I have seen in the Museum of the
Geological Society, a similar but more remarkable substance, brought by
Lieutenant Nelson from the reefs of Bermuda, which, when shown to several
experienced geologists, was mistaken by them for true chalk. On the
outside of the reef much sediment must be formed by the action of the surf
on the rolled fragments of coral; but in the calm waters of the lagoon,
this can take place only in a small degree. There are, however, other and
unexpected agents at work here: large shoals of two species of Scarus, one
inhabiting the surf outside the reef and the other the lagoon, subsist
entirely, as I was assured by Mr. Liesk, the intelligent resident before
referred to, by browsing on the living polypifers. I opened several of
these fish, which are very numerous and of considerable size, and I found
their intestines distended by small pieces of coral, and finely ground
calcareous matter. This must daily pass from them as the finest sediment;
much also must be produced by the infinitely numerous vermiform and
molluscous animals, which make cavities in almost every block of coral.
Dr. J. Allan, of Forres, who has enjoyed the best means of observation,
informs me in a letter that the Holothuriae (a family of Radiata) subsist
on living coral; and the singular structure of bone within the anterior
extremity of their bodies, certainly appears well adapted for this purpose.
The number of the species of Holothuria, and of the individuals which swarm
on every part of these coral-reefs, is extraordinarily great; and many
shiploads are annually freighted, as is well-known, for China with the
trepang, which is a species of this genus. The amount of coral yearly
consumed, and ground down into the finest mud, by these several creatures,
and probably by many other kinds, must be immense. These facts are,
however, of more importance in another point of view, as showing us that
there are living checks to the growth of coral-reefs, and that the almost
universal law of "consumed and be consumed," holds good even with the
polypifers forming those massive bulwarks, which are able to withstand the
force of the open ocean.

Considering that Keeling atoll, like other coral formations, has been
entirely formed by the growth of organic beings, and the accumulation of
their detritus, one is naturally led to inquire how long it has continued,
and how long it is likely to continue, in its present state. Mr. Liesk
informed me that he had seen an old chart in which the present long island
on the S.E. side was divided by several channels into as many islets; and
he assures me that the channels can still be distinguished by the smaller
size of the trees on them. On several islets, also, I observed that only
young cocoa-nut trees were growing on the extremities; and that older and
taller trees rose in regular succession behind them; which shows that these
islets have very lately increased in length. In the upper and south-eastern
part of the lagoon, I was much surprised by finding an irregular
field of at least a mile square of branching corals, still upright, but
entirely dead. They consisted of the species already mentioned; they were
of a brown colour, and so rotten, that in trying to stand on them I sank
halfway up the leg, as if through decayed brushwood. The tops of the
branches were barely covered by water at the time of lowest tide. Several
facts having led me to disbelieve in any elevation of the whole atoll, I
was at first unable to imagine what cause could have killed so large a
field of coral. Upon reflection, however, it appeared to me that the
closing up of the above-mentioned channels would be a sufficient cause; for
before this, a strong breeze by forcing water through them into the head of
the lagoon, would tend to raise its level. But now this cannot happen, and
the inhabitants observe that the tide rises to a less height, during a high
S.E. wind, at the head than at the mouth of the lagoon. The corals, which,
under the former condition of things, had attained the utmost possible
limit of upward growth, would thus occasionally be exposed for a short time
to the sun, and be killed.

Besides the increase of dry land, indicated by the foregoing facts, the
exterior solid reef appears to have grown outwards. On the western side of
the atoll, the "flat" lying between the margin of the reef and the beach,
is very wide; and in front of the regular beach with its conglomerate
basis, there is, in most parts, a bed of sand and loose fragments with
trees growing out of it, which apparently is not reached even by the spray
at high water. It is evident some change has taken place since the waves
formed the inner beach; that they formerly beat against it with violence
was evident, from a remarkably thick and water-worn point of conglomerate
at one spot, now protected by vegetation and a bank of sand; that they beat
against it in the same peculiar manner in which the swell from windward now
obliquely curls round the margin of the reef, was evident from the
conglomerate having been worn into a point projecting from the beach in a
similarly oblique manner. This retreat in the line of action of the
breakers might result, either from the surface of the reef in front of the
islets having been submerged at one time, and afterward having grown
upwards, or from the mounds of coral on the margin having continued to grow
outwards. That an outward growth of this part is in process, can hardly be
doubted from the fact already mentioned of the mounds of Porites with their
summits apparently lately killed, and their sides only three or four inches
lower down thickened by a fresh layer of living coral. But there is a
difficulty on this supposition which I must not pass over. If the whole,
or a large part of the "flat," had been formed by the outward growth of the
margin, each successive margin would naturally have been coated by the
Nulliporae, and so much of the surface would have been of equal height with
the existing zone of living Nulliporae: this is not the case, as may be
seen in the woodcut. It is, however, evident from the abraded state of the
"flat," with its original inequalities filled up, that its surface has been
much modified; and it is possible that the hinder portions of the zone of
Nulliporae, perishing as the reef grows outwards, might be worn down by the
surf. If this has not taken place, the reef can in no part have increased
outwards in breadth since its formation, or at least since the Nulliporae
formed the convex mound on its margin; for the zone thus formed, and which
stands between two and three feet above the other parts of the reef, is
nowhere much above twenty yards in width.

Thus far we have considered facts, which indicate, with more or less
probability, the increase of the atoll in its different parts: there are
others having an opposite tendency. On the south-east side, Lieutenant
Sulivan, to whose kindness I am indebted for many interesting observations,
found the conglomerate projecting on the reef nearly fifty yards in front
of the beach: we may infer from what we see in all other parts of the
atoll, that the conglomerate was not originally so much exposed, but formed
the base of an islet, the front and upper part of which has since been
swept away. The degree to which the conglomerate, round nearly the whole
atoll, has been scooped, broken up, and the fragments cast on the beach, is
certainly very surprising, even on the view that it is the office of
occasional gales to pile up fragments, and of the daily tides to wear them
away. On the western side, also, of the atoll, where I have described a
bed of sand and fragments with trees growing out of it, in front of an old
beach, it struck both Lieutenant Sulivan and myself, from the manner in
which the trees were being washed down, that the surf had lately
recommenced an attack on this line of coast. Appearances indicating a
slight encroachment of the water on the land, are plainer within the
lagoon: I noticed in several places, both on its windward and leeward
shores, old cocoa-nut trees falling with their roots undermined, and the
rotten stumps of others on the beach, where the inhabitants assured us the
cocoa-nut could not now grow. Captain Fitzroy pointed out to me, near the
settlement, the foundation posts of a shed, now washed by every tide, but
which the inhabitants stated, had seven years before stood above high
watermark. In the calm waters of the lagoon, directly connected with a
great, and therefore stable ocean, it seems very improbable that a change
in the currents, sufficiently great to cause the water to eat into the land
on all sides, should have taken place within a limited period. From these
considerations I inferred, that probably the atoll had lately subsided to a
small amount; and this inference was strengthened by the circumstance, that
in 1834, two years before our visit, the island had been shaken by a severe
earthquake, and by two slighter ones during the ten previous years. If,
during these subterranean disturbances, the atoll did subside, the downward
movement must have been very small, as we must conclude from the fields of
dead coral still lipping the surface of the lagoon, and from the breakers
on the western shore not having yet regained the line of their former
action. The subsidence must, also, have been preceded by a long period of
rest, during which the islets extended to their present size, and the
living margin of the reef grew either upwards, or as I believe outwards, to
its present distance from the beach.

Whether this view be correct or not, the above facts are worthy of
attention, as showing how severe a struggle is in progress on these low
coral formations between the two nicely balanced powers of land and water.
With respect to the future state of Keeling atoll, if left undisturbed, we
can see that the islets may still extend in length; but as they cannot
resist the surf until broken by rolling over a wide space, their increase
in breadth must depend on the increasing breadth of the reef; and this must
be limited by the steepness of the submarine flanks, which can be added to
only by sediment derived from the wear and tear of the coral. From the
rapid growth of the coral in the channel cut for the schooner, and from the
several agents at work in producing fine sediment, it might be thought that
the lagoon would necessarily become quickly filled up. Some of this
sediment, however, is transported into the open sea, as appears from the
soundings off the mouth of the lagoon, instead of being deposited within
it. The deposition, moreover, of sediment, checks the growth of coral-reefs,
so that these two agencies cannot act together with full effect in
filling it up. We know so little of the habits of the many different
species of corals, which form the lagoon-reefs, that we have no more
reasons for supposing that their whole surface would grow up as quickly as
the coral did in the schooner-channel, than for supposing that the whole
surface of a peat-moss would increase as quickly as parts are known to do
in holes, where the peat has been cut away. These agencies, nevertheless,
tend to fill up the lagoon; but in proportion as it becomes shallower, so
must the polypifers be subject to many injurious agencies, such as impure
water and loss of food. For instance, Mr. Liesk informed me, that some
years before our visit unusually heavy rain killed nearly all the fish in
the lagoon, and probably the same cause would likewise injure the corals.
The reefs also, it must be remembered, cannot possibly rise above the level
of the lowest spring-tide, so that the final conversion of the lagoon into
land must be due to the accumulation of sediment; and in the midst of the
clear water of the ocean, and with no surrounding high land, this process
must be exceedingly slow.


General form and size of atolls, their reefs and islets.--External slope.--
Zone of Nulliporae.--Conglomerate.--Depth of lagoons.--Sediment.--Reefs
submerged wholly or in part.--Breaches in the reef.--Ledge-formed shores
round certain lagoons.--Conversion of lagoons into land.

I will here give a sketch of the general form and structure of the many
atolls and atoll-formed reefs which occur in the Pacific and Indian Oceans,
comparing them with Keeling atoll. The Maldiva atolls and the Great Chagos
Bank differ in so many respects, that I shall devote to them, besides
occasional references, a third section of this chapter. Keeling atoll may
be considered as of moderate dimensions and of regular form. Of the
thirty-two islands surveyed by Captain Beechey in the Low Archipelago, the
longest was found to be thirty miles, and the shortest less than a mile;
but Vliegen atoll, situated in another part of the same group, appears to
be sixty miles long and twenty broad. Most of the atolls in this group are
of an elongated form; thus Bow Island is thirty miles in length, and on an
average only six in width (See Figure 4, Plate I.), and Clermont Tonnere
has nearly the same proportions. In the Marshall Archipelago (the Ralick
and Radack group of Kotzebue) several of the atolls are more than thirty
miles in length, and Rimsky Korsacoff is fifty-four long, and twenty wide,
at the broadest part of its irregular outline. Most of the atolls in the
Maldiva Archipelago are of great size, one of them (which, however, bears a
double name) measured in a medial and slightly curved line, is no less than
eighty-eight geographical miles long, its greatest width being under
twenty, and its least only nine and a half miles. Some atolls have spurs
projecting from them; and in the Marshall group there are atolls united
together by linear reefs, for instance Menchikoff Island (See Figure 3,
Plate II.), which is sixty miles in length, and consists of three loops
tied together. In far the greater number of cases an atoll consists of a
simple elongated ring, with its outline moderately regular.

The average width of the annular wreath may be taken as about a quarter of
a mile. Captain Beechey (Beechey's "Voyage to the Pacific and Beering's
Straits," chapter viii.) says that in the atolls of the Low Archipelago it
exceeded in no instance half a mile. The description given of the
structure and proportional dimensions of the reef and islets of Keeling
atoll, appears to apply perfectly to nearly all the atolls in the Pacific
and Indian Oceans. The islets are first formed some way back either on the
projecting points of the reef, especially if its form be angular, or on the
sides of the main entrances into the lagoon--that is in both cases, on
points where the breakers can act during gales of wind in somewhat
different directions, so that the matter thrown up from one side may
accumulate against that before thrown up from another. In Lutke's chart of
the Caroline atolls, we see many instances of the former case; and the
occurrence of islets, as if placed for beacons, on the points where there
is a gateway or breach through the reef, has been noticed by several
authors. There are some atoll-formed reefs, rising to the surface of the
sea and partly dry at low water, on which from some cause islets have never
been formed; and there are others on which they have been formed, but have
subsequently been worn away. In atolls of small dimensions the islets
frequently become united into a single horse-shoe or ring-formed strip; but
Diego Garcia, although an atoll of considerable size, being thirteen miles
and a half in length, has its lagoon entirely surrounded, except at the
northern end, by a belt of land, on an average a third of a mile in width.
To show how small the total area of the annular reef and the land is in
islands of this class, I may quote a remark from the voyage of Lutke,
namely, that if the forty-three rings, or atolls, in the Caroline
Archipelago, were put one within another, and over a steeple in the centre
of St. Petersburg, the whole world would not cover that city and its

The form of the bottom off Keeling atoll, which gradually slopes to about
twenty fathoms at the distance of between one and two hundred yards from
the edge of the reef, and then plunges at an angle of 45 deg into
unfathomable depths, is exactly the same (The form of the bottom round the
Marshall atolls in the Northern Pacific is probably similar: Kotzebue
("First Voyage," volume ii., page 16) says: "We had at a small distance
from the reef, forty fathoms depth, which increased a little further so
much that we could find no bottom.") with that of the sections of the
atolls in the Low Archipelago given by Captain Beechey. The nature,
however, of the bottom seems to differ, for this officer (I must be
permitted to express my obligation to Captain Beechey, for the very kind
manner in which he has given me information on several points, and to own
the great assistance I have derived from his excellent published work.)
informs me that all the soundings, even the deepest, were on coral, but he
does not know whether dead or alive. The slope round Christmas atoll (Lat.
1 deg 4' N., 157 deg 45' W.), described by Cook (Cook's "Third Voyage,"
volume ii., chapter 10.), is considerably less, at about half a mile from
the edge of the reef, the average depth was about fourteen fathoms on a
fine sandy bottom, and at a mile, only between twenty and forty fathoms.
It has no doubt been owing to this gentle slope, that the strip of land
surrounding its lagoon, has increased in one part to the extraordinary
width of three miles; it is formed of successive ridges of broken shells
and corals, like those on the beach. I know of no other instance of such
width in the reef of an atoll; but Mr. F.D. Bennett informs me that the
inclination of the bottom round Caroline atoll in the Pacific, is like that
off Christmas Island, very gentle. Off the Maldiva and Chagos atolls, the
inclination is much more abrupt; thus at Heawandoo Pholo, Lieutenant Powell
(This fact is taken from a MS. account of these groups lent me by Captain
Moresby. See also Captain Moresby's paper on the Maldiva atolls in the
"Geographical Journal", volume v., page 401.) found fifty and sixty fathoms
close to the edge of the reef, and at 300 yards distance there was no
bottom with a 300-yard line. Captain Moresby informs me, that at 100
fathoms from the mouth of the lagoon of Diego Garcia, he found no bottom
with 150 fathoms; this is the more remarkable, as the slope is generally
less abrupt in front of channels through a reef, owing to the accumulation
of sediment. At Egmont Island, also, at 150 fathoms from the reef,
soundings were struck with 150 fathoms. Lastly, at Cardoo atoll, only
sixty yards from the reef, no bottom was obtained, as I am informed by
Captain Moresby, with a line of 200 fathoms! The currents run with great
force round these atolls, and where they are strongest, the inclination
appears to be most abrupt. I am informed by the same authority, that
wherever soundings were obtained off these islands, the bottom was
invariably sandy: nor was there any reason to suspect the existence of
submarine cliffs, as there was at Keeling Island. (Off some of the islands
in the Low Archipelago the bottom appears to descend by ledges. Off
Elizabeth Island, which, however, consists of raised coral, Captain Beechey
(page 45, 4to edition) describes three ledges: the first had an easy slope
from the beach to a distance of about fifty yards: the second extended two
hundred yards with twenty-five fathoms on it, and then ended abruptly, like
the first; and immediately beyond this there was no bottom with two hundred
fathoms.) Here then occurs a difficulty; can sand accumulate on a slope,
which, in some cases, appears to exceed fifty-five degrees? It must be
observed, that I speak of slopes where soundings were obtained, and not of
such cases, as that of Cardoo, where the nature of the bottom is unknown,
and where its inclination must be nearly vertical. M. Elie de Beaumont
("Memoires pour servir a une description Geolog. de France," tome iv., page
216.) has argued, and there is no higher authority on this subject, from
the inclination at which snow slides down in avalanches, that a bed of sand
or mud cannot be formed at a greater angle than thirty degrees.
Considering the number of soundings on sand, obtained round the Maldiva and
Chagos atolls, which appears to indicate a greater angle, and the extreme
abruptness of the sand-banks in the West Indies, as will be mentioned in
the Appendix, I must conclude that the adhesive property of wet sand
counteracts its gravity, in a much greater ratio than has been allowed for
by M. Elie de Beaumont. From the facility with which calcareous sand
becomes agglutinated, it is not necessary to suppose that the bed of loose
sand is thick.

Captain Beechey has observed, that the submarine slope is much less at the
extremities of the more elongated atolls in the Low Archipelago, than at
their sides; in speaking of Ducie's Island he says (Beechey's "Voyage," 4to
edition, page 44.) the buttress, as it may be called, which "has the most
powerful enemy (the S.W. swell) to oppose, is carried out much further, and
with less abruptness than the other." In some cases, the less inclination
of a certain part of the external slope, for instance of the northern
extremities of the two Keeling atolls, is caused by a prevailing current
which there accumulates a bed of sand. Where the water is perfectly
tranquil, as within a lagoon, the reefs generally grow up perpendicularly,
and sometimes even overhang their bases; on the other hand, on the leeward
side of Mauritius, where the water is generally tranquil, although not
invariably so, the reef is very gently inclined. Hence it appears that the
exterior angle varies much; nevertheless in the close similarity in form
between the sections of Keeling atoll and of the atolls in the Low
Archipelago, in the general steepness of the reefs of the Maldiva and
Chagos atolls, and in the perpendicularity of those rising out of water
always tranquil, we may discern the effects of uniform laws; but from the
complex action of the surf and currents, on the growing powers of the coral
and on the deposition of sediment, we can by no means follow out all the

Where islets have been formed on the reef, that part which I have sometimes
called the "flat" and which is partly dry at low water, appears similar in
every atoll. In the Marshall group in the North Pacific, it may be
inferred from Chamisso's description, that the reef, where islets have not
been formed on it, slopes gently from the external margin to the shores of
the lagoon; Flinders states that the Australian barrier has a similar
inclination inwards, and I have no doubt it is of general occurrence,
although, according to Ehrenberg, the reefs of the Red Sea offer an
exception. Chamisso observes that "the red colour of the reef (at the
Marshall atolls) under the breakers is caused by a Nullipora, which covers
the stone WHEREVER THE WAVES BEAT; and, under favourable circumstances,
assumes a stalactical form,"--a description perfectly applicable to the
margin of Keeling atoll. (Kotzebue's "First Voyage," volume iii., page
142. Near Porto Praya, in the Cape de Verde Islands, some basaltic rocks,
lashed by no inconsiderable surf, were completely enveloped with a layer of
Nulliporae. The entire surface over many square inches, was coloured of a
peach-blossomed red; the layer, however, was of no greater thickness than
paper. Another kind, in the form of projecting knobs, grew in the same
situation. These Nulliporae are closely related to those described on the
coral-reefs, but I believe are of different species.) Although Chamisso
does not state that the masses of Nulliporae form points or a mound, higher
than the flat, yet I believe that this is the case; for Kotzebue (Kotzebue,
"First Voyage," volume ii., page 16. Lieutenant Nelson, in his excellent
memoir in the Geological Transactions (volume ii., page 105), alludes to
the rocky points mentioned by Kotzebue, and infers that they consist of
Serpulae, which compose incrusting masses on the reefs of Bermudas, as they
likewise do on a sandstone bar off the coast of Brazil (which I have
described in "London Phil. Journal," October 1841). These masses of
Serpulae hold the same position, relatively to the action of the sea, with
the Nulliporae on the coral-reefs in the Indian and Pacific Oceans.), in
another part, speaks of the rocks on the edge of the reef "as visible for
about two feet at low water," and these rocks we may feel quite certain are
not formed of true coral (Captain Moresby, in his valuable paper "on the
Northern atolls of Maldivas" ("Geographical Journal", volume v.), says that
the edges of the reefs there stand above water at low spring-tides.)
Whether a smooth convex mound of Nulliporae, like that which appears as if
artificially constructed to protect the margin of Keeling Island, is of
frequent occurrence round atolls, I know not; but we shall presently meet
with it, under precisely the same form, on the outer edge of the
"barrier-reefs" which encircle the Society Islands.

There appears to be scarcely a feature in the structure of Keeling reef,
which is not of common, if not of universal occurrence, in other atolls.
Thus Chamisso describes (Kotzebue's "First Voyage," volume iii., page 144.)
a layer of coarse conglomerate, outside the islets round the Marshall
atolls which "appears on its upper surface uneven and eaten away." From
drawings, with appended remarks, of Diego Garcia in the Chagos group and of
several of the Maldiva atolls, shown me by Captain Moresby (see also
Moresby on the Northern atolls of the Maldivas, "Geographical Journal",
volume v., page 400.), it is evident that their outer coasts are subject to
the same round of decay and renovation as those of Keeling atoll. From the
description of the atolls in the Low Archipelago, given in Captain
Beechey's "Voyage," it is not apparent that any conglomerate coral-rock was
there observed.

The lagoon in Keeling atoll is shallow; in the atolls of the Low
Archipelago the depth varies from 20 to 38 fathoms, and in the Marshall
Group, according to Chamisso, from 30 to 35; in the Caroline atolls it is
only a little less. Within the Maldiva atolls there are large spaces with
45 fathoms, and some soundings are laid down of 49 fathoms. The greater
part of the bottom in most lagoons, is formed of sediment; large spaces
have exactly the same depth, or the depth varies so insensibly, that it is
evident that no other means, excepting aqueous deposition, could have
leveled the surface so equally. In the Maldiva atolls this is very
conspicuous, and likewise in some of the Caroline and Marshall Islands. In
the former large spaces consist of sand and SOFT CLAY; and Kotzebue speaks
of clay having been found within one of the Marshall atolls. No doubt this
clay is calcareous mud, similar to that at Keeling Island, and to that at
Bermuda already referred to, as undistinguishable from disintegrated chalk,
and which Lieutenant Nelson says is called there pipe-clay. (I may here
observe that on the coast of Brazil, where there is much coral, the
soundings near the land are described by Admiral Roussin, in the "Pilote du
Bresil", as siliceous sand, mingled with much finely comminuted particles
of shells and coral. Further in the offing, for a space of 1,300 miles
along the coast, from the Abrolhos Islands to Maranham, the bottom in many
places is composed of "tuf blanc, mele ou forme de madrepores broyes."
This white substance, probably, is analogous to that which occurs within
the above-mentioned lagoons; it is sometimes, according to Roussin, firm,
and he compares it to mortar.)

Where the waves act with unequal force on the two sides of an atoll, the
islets appear to be first formed, and are generally of greater continuity
on the more exposed shore. The islets, also, which are placed to leeward,
are in most parts of the Pacific liable to be occasionally swept entirely
away by gales, equalling hurricanes in violence, which blow in an opposite
direction to the ordinary trade-wind. The absence of the islets on the
leeward side of atolls, or when present their lesser dimensions compared
with those to windward, is a comparatively unimportant fact; but in several
instances the reef itself on the leeward side, retaining its usual defined
outline, does not rise to the surface by several fathoms. This is the case
with the southern side of Peros Banhos (Plate I., Figure 9) in the Chagos
group, with Mourileu atoll (Frederick Lutke's "Voyage autour du Monde,"
volume ii., page 291. See also his account of Namonouito, below, and the
chart of Oulleay in the Atlas.) in the Caroline Archipelago, and with the
barrier-reef (Plate I., Figure 8) of the Gambier Islands. I allude to the
latter reef, although belonging to another class, because Captain Beechey
was first led by it to observe the peculiarity in the question. At Peros
Banhos the submerged part is nine miles in length, and lies at an average
depth of about five fathoms; its surface is nearly level, and consists of
hard stone, with a thin covering of loose sand. There is scarcely any
living coral on it, even on the outer margin, as I have been particularly
assured by Captain Moresby; it is, in fact, a wall of dead coral-rock,
having the same width and transverse section with the reef in its ordinary
state, of which it is a continuous portion. The living and perfect parts
terminate abruptly, and abut on the submerged portions, in the same manner
as on the sides of an ordinary passage through the reef. The reef to
leeward in other cases is nearly or quite obliterated, and one side of the
lagoon is left open; for instance, at Oulleay (Caroline Archipelago), where
a crescent-formed reef is fronted by an irregular bank, on which the other
half of the annular reef probably once stood. At Namonouito, in the same
Archipelago, both these modifications of the reef concur; it consists of a
great flat bank, with from twenty to twenty-five fathoms water on it; for a
length of more than forty miles on its southern side it is open and without
any reef, whilst on the other sides it is bounded by a reef, in parts
rising to the surface and perfectly characterised, in parts lying some
fathoms submerged. In the Chagos group there are annular reefs, entirely
submerged, which have the same structure as the submerged and defined
portions just described. The Speaker's Bank offers an excellent example of
this structure; its central expanse, which is about twenty-two fathoms
deep, is twenty-four miles across; the external rim is of the usual width
of annular reefs, and is well-defined; it lies between six and eight
fathoms beneath the surface, and at the same depth there are scattered
knolls in the lagoon. Captain Moresby believes the rim consists of dead
rock, thinly covered with sand, and he is certain this is the case with the
external rim of the Great Chagos Bank, which is also essentially a
submerged atoll. In both these cases, as in the submerged portion of the
reef at Peros Banhos, Captain Moresby feels sure that the quantity of
living coral, even on the outer edge overhanging the deep-sea water, is
quite insignificant. Lastly, in several parts of the Pacific and Indian
Oceans there are banks, lying at greater depths than in the cases just
mentioned, of the same form and size with the neighbouring atolls, but with
their atoll-like structure wholly obliterated. It appears from the survey
of Freycinet, that there are banks of this kind in the Caroline
Archipelago, and, as is reported, in the Low Archipelago. When we discuss
the origin of the different classes of coral formations, we shall see that
the submerged state of the whole of some atoll-formed reefs, and of
portions of others, generally but not invariably on the leeward side, and
the existence of more deeply submerged banks now possessing little or no
signs of their original atoll-like structure, are probably the effects of a
uniform cause,--namely, the death of the coral, during the subsidence of
the area, in which the atolls or banks are situated.

There is seldom, with the exception of the Maldiva atolls, more than two or
three channels, and generally only one leading into the lagoon, of
sufficient depth for a ship to enter. in small atolls, there is usually
not even one. Where there is deep water, for instance above twenty
fathoms, in the middle of the lagoon, the channels through the reef are
seldom as deep as the centre,--it may be said that the rim only of the
saucer-shaped hollow forming the lagoon is notched. Mr. Lyell ("Principles
of Geology," volume iii., page 289.) has observed that the growth of the
coral would tend to obstruct all the channels through a reef, except those
kept open by discharging the water, which during high tide and the greater
part of each ebb is thrown over its circumference. Several facts indicate
that a considerable quantity of sediment is likewise discharged through
these channels; and Captain Moresby informs me that he has observed, during
the change of the monsoon, the sea discoloured to a distance off the
entrances into the Maldiva and Chagos atolls. This, probably, would check
the growth of the coral in them, far more effectually than a mere current
of water. In the many small atolls without any channel, these causes have
not prevented the entire ring attaining the surface. The channels, like
the submerged and effaced parts of the reef, very generally though not
invariably occur on the leeward side of the atoll, or on that side,
according to Beechey (Beechey's "Voyage," 4to edition, volume i., page
189.), which, from running in the same direction with the prevalent wind,
is not fully exposed to it. Passages between the islets on the reef,
through which boats can pass at high water, must not be confounded with
ship-channels, by which the annular reef itself is breached. The passages
between the islets occur, of course, on the windward as well as on the
leeward side; but they are more frequent and broader to leeward, owing to
the lesser dimensions of the islets on that side.

At Keeling atoll the shores of the lagoon shelve gradually, where the
bottom is of sediment, and irregularly or abruptly where there are
coral-reefs; but this is by no means the universal structure in other atolls.
Chamisso (Kotzebue's "First Voyage," volume iii., page 142.), speaking in
general terms of the lagoons in the Marshall atolls, says the lead
generally sinks "from a depth of two or three fathoms to twenty or
twenty-four, and you may pursue a line in which on one side of the boat you
may see the bottom, and on the other the azure-blue deep water." The shores
of the lagoon-like channel within the barrier-reef at Vanikoro have a similar
structure. Captain Beechey has described a modification of this structure
(and he believes it is not uncommon) in two atolls in the Low Archipelago,
in which the shores of the lagoon descend by a few, broad, slightly
inclined ledges or steps: thus at Matilda atoll (Beechey's "Voyage," 4to
edition, volume i, page 160. At Whitsunday Island the bottom of the lagoon
slopes gradually towards the centre, and then deepens suddenly, the edge of
the bank being nearly perpendicular. This bank is formed of coral and dead
shells.), the great exterior reef, the surface of which is gently inclined
towards and beneath the surface of the lagoon, ends abruptly in a little
cliff three fathoms deep; at its foot, a ledge forty yards wide extends,
shelving gently inwards like the surface-reef, and terminated by a second
little cliff five fathoms deep; beyond this, the bottom of the lagoon
slopes to twenty fathoms, which is the average depth of its centre. These
ledges seem to be formed of coral-rock; and Captain Beechey says that the
lead often descended several fathoms through holes in them. In some
atolls, all the coral reefs or knolls in the lagoon come to the surface at
low water; in other cases of rarer occurrence, all lie at nearly the same
depth beneath it, but most frequently they are quite irregular,--some with
perpendicular, some with sloping sides,--some rising to the surface, and
others lying at all intermediate depths from the bottom upwards. I cannot,
therefore, suppose that the union of such reefs could produce even one
uniformly sloping ledge, and much less two or three, one beneath the other,
and each terminated by an abrupt wall. At Matilda Island, which offers the
best example of the step-like structure, Captain Beechey observes that the
coral-knolls within the lagoon are quite irregular in their height. We
shall hereafter see that the theory which accounts for the ordinary form of
atolls, apparently includes this occasional peculiarity in their structure.

In the midst of a group of atolls, there sometimes occur small, flat, very
low islands of coral formation, which probably once included a lagoon,
since filled up with sediment and coral-reefs. Captain Beechey entertains
no doubt that this has been the case with the two small islands, which
alone of thirty-one surveyed by him in the Low Archipelago, did not contain
lagoons. Romanzoff Island (in lat. 15 deg S.) is described by Chamisso
(Kotzebue's "First Voyage," volume iii., page 221.) as formed by a dam of
madreporitic rock inclosing a flat space, thinly covered with trees, into
which the sea on the leeward side occasionally breaks. North Keeling atoll
appears to be in a rather less forward stage of conversion into land; it
consists of a horse-shoe shaped strip of land surrounding a muddy flat, one
mile in its longest axis, which is covered by the sea only at high water.
When describing South Keeling atoll, I endeavoured to show how slow the
final process of filling up a lagoon must be; nevertheless, as all causes
do tend to produce this effect, it is very remarkable that not one
instance, as I believe, is known of a moderately sized lagoon being filled
up even to the low water-line at spring-tides, much less of such a one
being converted into land. It is, likewise, in some degree remarkable, how
few atolls, except small ones, are surrounded by a single linear strip of
land, formed by the union of separate islets. We cannot suppose that the
many atolls in the Pacific and Indian Oceans all have had a late origin,
and yet should they remain at their present level, subjected only to the
action of the sea and to the growing powers of the coral, during as many
centuries as must have elapsed since any of the earlier tertiary epochs, it
cannot, I think, be doubted that their lagoons and the islets on their
reef, would present a totally different appearance from what they now do.
This consideration leads to the suspicion that some renovating agency
(namely subsidence) comes into play at intervals, and perpetuates their
original structure.



FIGURE 1.--GREAT CHAGOS BANK, in the Indian Ocean; taken from the survey by
Captain Moresby and Lieutenant Powell; the parts which are shaded, with the
exception of two or three islets on the western and northern sides, do not
rise to the surface, but are submerged from four to ten fathoms; the banks
bounded by the dotted lines lie from fifteen to twenty fathoms beneath the
surface, and are formed of sand; the central space is of mud, and from
thirty to fifty fathoms deep.

FIGURE 2.--A vertical section, on the same scale, in an eastern and western
line across the Great Chagos Bank, given for the sake of exhibiting more
clearly its structure.

FIGURE 3.--MENCHIKOFF ATOLL (or lagoon-island), in the Marshall
Archipelago, Northern Pacific Ocean; from Krusenstern's "Atlas of the
Pacific;" originally surveyed by Captain Hagemeister; the depth within the
lagoons is unknown.

FIGURE 4.--MAHLOS MAHDOO ATOLL, together with Horsburgh atoll, in the
Maldiva Archipelago; from the survey by Captain Moresby and Lieutenant
Powell; the white spaces in the middle of the separate small reefs, both on
the margin and in the middle part, are meant to represent little lagoons;
but it was found not possible to distinguish them clearly from the small
islets, which have been formed on these same small reefs; many of the
smaller reefs could not be introduced; the nautical mark (dot over a dash)
over the figures 250 and 200, between Mahlos Mahdoo and Horsburgh atoll and
Powell's island, signifies that soundings were not obtained at these

FIGURE 5.--NEW CALEDONIA, in the western part of the Pacific; from
Krusenstern's "Atlas," compiled from several surveys; I have slightly
altered the northern point of the reef, in accordance with the "Atlas of
the Voyage of the 'Astrolabe'." In Krusenstern's "Atlas," the reef is
represented by a single line with crosses; I have for the sake of
uniformity added an interior line.

FIGURE 6.--MALDIVA ARCHIPELAGO, in the Indian Ocean; from the survey by
Captain Moresby and Lieutenant Powell.)


Maldiva Archipelago.--Ring-formed reefs, marginal and central.--Great
depths in the lagoons of the southern atolls.--Reefs in the lagoons all
rising to the surface.--Position of islets and breaches in the reefs, with
respect to the prevalent winds and action of the waves.--Destruction of
islets.--Connection in the position and submarine foundation of distinct
atolls.--The apparent disseverment of large atolls.--The Great Chagos
Bank.--Its submerged condition and extraordinary structure.

Although occasional references have been made to the Maldiva atolls, and to
the banks in the Chagos group, some points of their structure deserve
further consideration. My description is derived from an examination of
the admirable charts lately published from the survey of Captain Moresby
and Lieutenant Powell, and more especially from information which Captain
Moresby has communicated to me in the kindest manner.

The Maldiva Archipelago is 470 miles in length, with an average breadth of
about 50 miles. The form and dimensions of the atolls, and their singular
position in a double line, may be seen, but not well, in the greatly
reduced chart (Figure 6) in Plate II. The dimensions of the longest atoll
in the group (called by the double name of Milla-dou-Madou and
Tilla-dou-Matte) have already been given; it is 88 miles in a medial and
slightly curved line, and is less than 20 miles in its broadest part.
Suadiva, also, is a noble atoll, being 44 miles across in one direction, and
34 in another, and the great included expanse of water has a depth of between
250 and 300 feet. The smaller atolls in this group differ in no respect from
ordinary ones; but the larger ones are remarkable from being breached by
numerous deep-water channels leading into the lagoon; for instance, there
are 42 channels, through which a ship could enter the lagoon of Suadiva.
In the three southern large atolls, the separate portions of reef between
these channels have the ordinary structure, and are linear; but in the
other atolls, especially the more northern ones, these portions are ring-
formed, like miniature atolls. Other ring-formed reefs rise out of the
lagoons, in the place of those irregular ones which ordinarily occur there.
In the reduction of the chart of Mahlos Mahdoo (Plate II., Figure 4), it
was not found easy to define the islets and the little lagoons within each
reef, so that the ring-formed structure is very imperfectly shown; in the
large published charts of Tilla-dou-Matte, the appearance of these rings,
from standing further apart from each other, is very remarkable. The rings
on the margin are generally elongated; many of them are three, and some
even five miles, in diameter; those within the lagoon are usually smaller,
few being more than two miles across, and the greater number rather less
than one. The depth of the little lagoon within these small annular reefs
is generally from five to seven fathoms, but occasionally more; and in Ari
atoll many of the central ones are twelve, and some even more than twelve
fathoms deep. These rings rise abruptly from the platform or bank, on
which they are placed; their outer margin is invariably bordered by living
coral (Captain Moresby informs me that Millepora complanata is one of the
commonest kinds on the outer margin, as it is at Keeling atoll.) within
which there is a flat surface of coral rock; of this flat, sand and
fragments have in many cases accumulated and been converted into islets,
clothed with vegetation. I can, in fact, point out no essential difference
between these little ring-formed reefs (which, however, are larger, and
contain deeper lagoons than many true atolls that stand in the open sea),
and the most perfectly characterised atolls, excepting that the ring-formed
reefs are based on a shallow foundation, instead of on the floor of the
open sea, and that instead of being scattered irregularly, they are grouped
closely together on one large platform, with the marginal rings arranged in
a rudely formed circle.

The perfect series which can be traced from portions of simple linear reef,
to others including long linear lagoons, and from these again to oval or
almost circular rings, renders it probable that the latter are merely
modifications of the linear or normal state. It is conformable with this
view, that the ring-formed reefs on the margin, even where most perfect and
standing furthest apart, generally have their longest axes directed in the
line which the reef would have held, if the atoll had been bounded by an
ordinary wall. We may also infer that the central ring-formed reefs are
modifications of those irregular ones, which are found in the lagoons of
all common atolls. It appears from the charts on a large scale, that the
ring-like structure is contingent on the marginal channels or breaches
being wide; and, consequently, on the whole interior of the atoll being
freely exposed to the waters of the open sea. When the channels are narrow
or few in number, although the lagoon be of great size and depth (as in
Suadiva), there are no ring-formed reefs; where the channels are somewhat
broader, the marginal portions of reef, and especially those close to the
larger channels, are ring-formed, but the central ones are not so; where
they are broadest, almost every reef throughout the atoll is more or less
perfectly ring-formed. Although their presence is thus contingent on the
openness of the marginal channels, the theory of their formation, as we
shall hereafter see, is included in that of the parent atolls, of which
they form the separate portions.

The lagoons of all the atolls in the southern part of the Archipelago are
from ten to twenty fathoms deeper than those in the northern part. This is
well exemplified in the case of Addoo, the southernmost atoll in the group,
for although only nine miles in its longest diameter, it has a depth of
thirty-nine fathoms, whereas all the other small atolls have comparatively
shallow lagoons; I can assign no adequate cause for this difference in
depth. In the central and deepest part of the lagoons, the bottom
consists, as I am informed by Captain Moresby, of stiff clay (probably a
calcareous mud); nearer the border it consists of sand, and in the channels
through the reef, of hard sand-banks, sandstone, conglomerate rubble, and a
little live coral. Close outside the reef and the line joining its
detached portions (where intersected by many channels), the bottom is
sandy, and it slopes abruptly into unfathomable depths. In most lagoons
the depth is considerably greater in the centre than in the channels; but
in Tilla-dou-Matte, where the marginal ring-formed reefs stand far apart,
the same depth is carried across the entire atoll, from the deep-water line
on one side to that on the other. I cannot refrain from once again
remarking on the singularity of these atolls,--a great sandy and generally
concave disc rises abruptly from the unfathomable ocean, with its central
expanse studded and its border symmetrically fringed with oval basins of
coral-rock, just lipping the surface of the sea, sometimes clothed with
vegetation, and each containing a little lake of clear water!

In the southern Maldiva atolls, of which there are nine large ones, all the
small reefs within the lagoons come to the surface, and are dry at low
water spring-tides; hence in navigating them, there is no danger from
submarine banks. This circumstance is very remarkable, as within some
atolls, for instance those of the neighbouring Chagos group, not a single
reef comes to the surface, and in most other cases a few only do, and the
rest lie at all intermediate depths from the bottom upwards. When treating
of the growth of coral I shall again refer to this subject.

Although in the neighbourhood of the Maldiva Archipelago the winds, during
the monsoons, blow during nearly an equal time from opposite quarters, and
although, as I am informed by Captain Moresby, the westerly winds are the
strongest, yet the islets are almost all placed on the eastern side of the
northern atolls, and on the south-eastern side of the southern atolls.
That the formation of the islets is due to detritus thrown up from the
outside, as in the ordinary manner, and not from the interior of the
lagoons, may, I think be safely inferred from several considerations, which
it is hardly worth while to detail. As the easterly winds are not the
strongest, their action probably is aided by some prevailing swell or

In groups of atolls, exposed to a trade-wind, the ship-channels into the
lagoons are almost invariably situated on the leeward or less exposed side
of the reef, and the reef itself is sometimes either wanting there, or is
submerged. A strictly analogous, but different fact, may be observed at
the Maldiva atolls--namely, that where two atolls stand in front of each
other, the breaches in the reef are the most numerous on their near, and
therefore less exposed, sides. Thus on the near sides of Ari and the two
Nillandoo atolls, which face S. Male, Phaleedoo, and Moloque atolls, there
are seventy-three deep-water channels, and only twenty-five on their outer
sides; on the near side of the three latter named atolls there are fifty-
six openings, and only thirty-seven on their outsides. It is scarcely
possible to attribute this difference to any other cause than the somewhat
different action of the sea on the two sides, which would ensue from the
protection afforded by the two rows of atolls to each other. I may here
remark that in most cases, the conditions favourable to the greater
accumulation of fragments on the reef and to its more perfect continuity on
one side of the atoll than on the other, have concurred, but this has not
been the case with the Maldivas; for we have seen that the islets are
placed on the eastern or south-eastern sides, whilst the breaches in the
reef occur indifferently on any side, where protected by an opposite atoll.
The reef being more continuous on the outer and more exposed sides of those
atolls which stand near each other, accords with the fact, that the reef of
the southern atolls is more continuous than that of the northern ones; for
the former, as I am informed by Captain Moresby, are more constantly
exposed than the northern atolls to a heavy surf.

The date of the first formation of some of the islets in this Archipelago
is known to the inhabitants; on the other hand, several islets, and even
some of those which are believed to be very old, are now fast wearing away.
The work of destruction has, in some instances, been completed in ten
years. Captain Moresby found on one water-washed reef the marks of wells
and graves, which were excavated when it supported an islet. In South
Nillandoo atoll, the natives say that three of the islets were formerly
larger: in North Nillandoo there is one now being washed away; and in this
latter atoll Lieutenant Prentice found a reef, about six hundred yards in
diameter, which the natives positively affirmed was lately an island
covered with cocoa-nut trees. It is now only partially dry at low water
spring-tides, and is (in Lieutenant Prentice's words) "entirely covered
with live coral and madrepore." In the northern part, also, of the Maldiva
Archipelago and in the Chagos group, it is known that some of the islets
are disappearing. The natives attribute these effects to variations in the
currents of the sea. For my own part I cannot avoid suspecting that there
must be some further cause, which gives rise to such a cycle of change in
the action of the currents of the great and open ocean.

Several of the atolls in this Archipelago are so related to each other in
form and position, that at the first glance one is led to suspect that they
have originated in the disseverment of a single one. Male consists of
three perfectly characterised atolls, of which the shape and relative
position are such, that a line drawn closely round all three, gives a
symmetrical figure; to see this clearly, a larger chart is required than
that of the Archipelago in Plate II.; the channel separating the two
northern Male atolls is only little more than a mile wide, and no bottom
was found in it with 100 fathoms. Powell's Island is situated at the
distance of two miles and a half off the northern end of Mahlos Mahdoo (see
Figure 4, Plate II.), at the exact point where the two sides of the latter,
if prolonged, would meet; no bottom, however, was found in the channel with
200 fathoms; in the wider channel between Horsburgh atoll and the southern
end of Mahlos Mahdoo, no bottom was found with 250 fathoms. In these and
similar cases, the relation consists only in the form and position of the
atolls. But in the channel between the two Nillandoo atolls, although
three miles and a quarter wide, soundings were struck at the depth of 200
fathoms; the channel between Ross and Ari atolls is four miles wide, and
only 150 fathoms deep. Here then we have, besides the relation of form, a
submarine connection. The fact of soundings having been obtained between
two separate and perfectly characterised atolls is in itself interesting,
as it has never, I believe, been effected in any of the many other groups
of atolls in the Pacific and Indian seas. In continuing to trace the
connection of adjoining atolls, if a hasty glance be taken at the chart
(Figure 4., Plate II.) of Mahlos Mahdoo, and the line of unfathomable water
be followed, no one will hesitate to consider it as one atoll. But a
second look will show that it is divided by a bifurcating channel, of which
the northern arm is about one mile and three-quarters in width, with an
average depth of 125 fathoms, and the southern one three-quarters of a mile
wide, and rather less deep. These channels resemble in the slope of their
sides and general form, those which separate atolls in every respect
distinct; and the northern arm is wider than that dividing two of the Male
atolls. The ring-formed reefs on the sides of this bifurcating channel are
elongated, so that the northern and southern portions of Mahlos Mahdoo may
claim, as far as their external outline is concerned, to be considered as
distinct and perfect atolls. But the intermediate portion, lying in the
fork of the channel, is bordered by reefs less perfect than those which
surround any other atoll in the group of equally small dimensions. Mahlos
Mahdoo, therefore, is in every respect in so intermediate a condition, that
it may be considered either as a single atoll nearly dissevered into three
portions, or as three atolls almost perfect and intimately connected. This
is an instance of a very early stage of the apparent disseverment of an
atoll, but a still earlier one in many respects is exhibited at Tilla-dou-
Matte. In one part of this atoll, the ring-formed reefs stand so far apart
from each other, that the inhabitants have given different names to the
northern and southern halves; nearly all the rings, moreover, are so
perfect and stand so separate, and the space from which they rise is so
level and unlike a true lagoon, that we can easily imagine the conversion
of this one great atoll, not into two or three portions, but into a whole
group of miniature atolls. A perfect series such as we have here traced,
impresses the mind with an idea of actual change; and it will hereafter be
seen, that the theory of subsidence, with the upward growth of the coral,
modified by accidents of probable occurrence, will account for the
occasional disseverment of large atolls.

The Great Chagos bank alone remains to be described. In the Chagos group
there are some ordinary atolls, some annular reefs rising to the surface
but without any islets on them, and some atoll-formed banks, either quite
submerged, or nearly so. Of the latter, the Great Chagos Bank is much the
largest, and differs in its structure from the others: a plan of it is
given in Plate II., Figure 1, in which, for the sake of clearness, I have
had the parts under ten fathoms deep finely shaded: an east and west
vertical section is given in Figure 2, in which the vertical scale has been
necessarily exaggerated. Its longest axis is ninety nautical miles, and
another line drawn at right angles to the first, across the broadest part,
is seventy. The central part consists of a level muddy flat, between forty
and fifty fathoms deep, which is surrounded on all sides, with the
exception of some breaches, by the steep edges of a set of banks, rudely
arranged in a circle. These banks consist of sand, with a very little live
coral; they vary in breadth from five to twelve miles, and on an average
lie about sixteen fathoms beneath the surface; they are bordered by the
steep edges of a third narrow and upper bank, which forms the rim to the
whole. This rim is about a mile in width, and with the exception of two or
three spots where islets have been formed, is submerged between five and
ten fathoms. It consists of smooth hard rock, covered with a thin layer of
sand, but with scarcely any live coral; it is steep on both sides, and
outwards slopes abruptly into unfathomable depths. At the distance of less
than half a mile from one part, no bottom was found with 190 fathoms; and
off another point, at a somewhat greater distance, there was none with 210
fathoms. Small steep-sided banks or knolls, covered with luxuriantly
growing coral, rise from the interior expanse to the same level with the
external rim, which, as we have seen, is formed only of dead rock. It is
impossible to look at the plan (Figure 1, Plate II.), although reduced to
so small a scale, without at once perceiving that the Great Chagos Bank is,
in the words of Captain Moresby (This officer has had the kindness to lend
me an excellent MS. account of the Chagos Islands; from this paper, from
the published charts, and from verbal information communicated to me by
Captain Moresby, the above account of the Great Chagos Bank is taken.),
"nothing more than a half-drowned atoll." But of what great dimensions,
and of how extraordinary an internal structure? We shall hereafter have to
consider both the cause of its submerged condition, a state common to other
banks in the group, and the origin of the singular submarine terraces,
which bound the central expanse: these, I think, it can be shown, have
resulted from a cause analogous to that which has produced the bifurcating
channel across Mahlos Mahdoo.


Closely resemble in general form and structure atoll-reefs.--Width and
depth of the lagoon-channels.--Breaches through the reef in front of
valleys, and generally on the leeward side.--Checks to the filling up of
the lagoon-channels.--Size and constitution of the encircled islands.--
Number of islands within the same reef.--Barrier-reefs of New Caledonia and
Australia.--Position of the reef relative to the slope of the adjoining
land.--Probable great thickness of barrier-reefs.

The term "barrier" has been generally applied to that vast reef which
fronts the N.E. shore of Australia, and by most voyagers likewise to that
on the western coast of New Caledonia. At one time I thought it convenient
thus to restrict the term, but as these reefs are similar in structure, and
in position relatively to the land, to those, which, like a wall with a
deep moat within, encircle many smaller islands, I have classed them
together. The reef, also, on the west coast of New Caledonia, circling
round the extremities of the island, is an intermediate form between a
small encircling reef and the Australian barrier, which stretches for a
thousand miles in nearly a straight line.

The geographer Balbi has in effect described those barrier-reefs, which
encircle moderately sized islands, by calling them atolls with high land
rising from within their central expanse. The general resemblance between
the reefs of the barrier and atoll classes may be seen in the small, but
accurately reduced charts on Plate I. (The authorities from which these
charts have been reduced, together with some remarks on them and
descriptive of the Plates, are given separately.), and this resemblance can
be further shown to extend to every part of the structure. Beginning with
the outside of the reef; many scattered soundings off Gambier, Oualan, and
some other encircled islands, show that close to the breakers there exists
a narrow shelving margin, beyond which the ocean becomes suddenly
unfathomable; but off the west coast of New Caledonia, Captain Kent
(Dalrymple, "Hydrog. Mem." volume iii.) found no bottom with 150 fathoms,
at two ships' length from the reef; so that the slope here must be nearly
as precipitous as off the Maldiva atolls.

I can give little information regarding the kinds of corals which live on
the outer margin. When I visited the reef at Tahiti, although it was low
water, the surf was too violent for me to see the living masses; but,
according to what I heard from some intelligent native chiefs, they
resemble in their rounded and branchless forms, those on the margin of
Keeling atoll. The extreme verge of the reef, which was visible between
the breaking waves at low water, consisted of a rounded, convex,
artificial-like breakwater, entirely coated with Nulliporae, and absolutely
similar to that which I have described at Keeling atoll. From what I heard
when at Tahiti, and from the writings of the Revs. W. Ellis and J.
Williams, I conclude that this peculiar structure is common to most of the
encircled islands of the Society Archipelago. The reef within this mound
or breakwater, has an extremely irregular surface, even more so than
between the islets on the reef of Keeling atoll, with which alone (as there
are no islets on the reef of Tahiti) it can properly be compared. At
Tahiti, the reef is very irregular in width; but round many other encircled
islands, for instance, Vanikoro or Gambier Islands (Figures 1 and 8, Plate
I.), it is quite as regular, and of the same average width, as in true
atolls. Most barrier-reefs on the inner side slope irregularly into the
lagoon-channel (as the space of deep water separating the reef from the
included land may be called), but at Vanikoro the reef slopes only for a
short distance, and then terminates abruptly in a submarine wall, forty
feet high,--a structure absolutely similar to that described by Chamisso in
the Marshall atolls.

In the Society Archipelago, Ellis (Consult, on this and other points, the
"Polynesian Researches," by the Rev. W. Ellis, an admirable work, full of
curious information.) states, that the reefs generally lie at the distance
of from one to one and a half miles, and, occasionally, even at more than
three miles, from the shore. The central mountains are generally bordered
by a fringe of flat, and often marshy, alluvial land, from one to four
miles in width. This fringe consists of coral-sand and detritus thrown up
from the lagoon-channel, and of soil washed down from the hills; it is an
encroachment on the channel, analogous to that low and inner part of the
islets in many atolls which is formed by the accumulation of matter from
the lagoon. At Hogoleu (Figure 2, Plate I.), in the Caroline Archipelago
(See "Hydrographical Mem." and the "Atlas of the Voyage of the
'Astrolabe'," by Captain Dumont D'Urville, page 428.), the reef on the
south side is no less than twenty miles; on the east side, five; and on the
north side, fourteen miles from the encircled high islands.

The lagoon channels may be compared in every respect with true lagoons. In
some cases they are open, with a level bottom of fine sand; in others they
are choked up with reefs of delicately branched corals, which have the same
general character as those within the Keeling atoll. These internal reefs
either stand separately, or more commonly skirt the shores of the included
high islands. The depth of the lagoon-channel round the Society Islands
varies from two or three to thirty fathoms; in Cook's (See the chart in
volume i. of Hawkesworth's 4to edition of "Cook's First Voyage.") chart of
Ulieta, however, there is one sounding laid down of forty-eight fathoms; at
Vanikoro there are several of fifty-four and one of fifty-six and a half
fathoms (English), a depth which even exceeds by a little that of the
interior of the great Maldiva atolls. Some barrier-reefs have very few
islets on them; whilst others are surmounted by numerous ones; and those
round part of Bolabola (Plate I., Figure 5) form a single linear strip.
The islets first appear either on the angles of the reef, or on the sides
of the breaches through it, and are generally most numerous on the windward
side. The reef to leeward retaining its usual width, sometimes lies
submerged several fathoms beneath the surface; I have already mentioned
Gambier Island as an instance of this structure. Submerged reefs, having a
less defined outline, dead, and covered with sand, have been observed (see
Appendix) off some parts of Huaheine and Tahiti. The reef is more
frequently breached to leeward than to windward; thus I find in
Krusenstern's "Memoir on the Pacific," that there are passages through the
encircling reef on the leeward side of each of the seven Society Islands,
which possess ship-harbours; but that there are openings to windward
through the reef of only three of them. The breaches in the reef are
seldom as deep as the interior lagoon-like channel; they generally occur in
front of the main valleys, a circumstance which can be accounted for, as
will be seen in the fourth chapter, without much difficulty. The breaches
being situated in front of the valleys, which descend indifferently on all
sides, explains their more frequent occurrence through the windward side of
barrier-reefs than through the windward side of atolls,--for in atolls
there is no included land to influence the position of the breaches.

It is remarkable, that the lagoon-channels round mountainous islands have
not in every instance been long ago filled up with coral and sediment; but
it is more easily accounted for than appears at first sight. In cases like
that of Hogoleu and the Gambier Islands, where a few small peaks rise out
of a great lagoon, the conditions scarcely differ from those of an atoll,
and I have already shown, at some length, that the filling up of a true
lagoon must be an extremely slow process. Where the channel is narrow, the
agency, which on unprotected coasts is most productive of sediment, namely
the force of the breakers, is here entirely excluded, and the reef being
breached in the front of the main valleys, much of the finer mud from the
rivers must be transported into the open sea. As a current is formed by
the water thrown over the edge of atoll-formed reefs, which carries
sediment with it through the deep-water breaches, the same thing probably
takes place in barrier-reefs, and this would greatly aid in preventing the
lagoon-channel from being filled up. The low alluvial border, however, at
the foot of the encircled mountains, shows that the work of filling up is
in progress; and at Maura (Plate I., Figure 6), in the Society group, it
has been almost effected, so that there remains only one harbour for small

If we look at a set of charts of barrier-reefs, and leave out in
imagination the encircled land, we shall find that, besides the many points
already noticed of resemblance, or rather of identity in structure with
atolls, there is a close general agreement in form, average dimensions, and
grouping. Encircling barrier-reefs, like atolls, are generally elongated,
with an irregularly rounded, though sometimes angular outline. There are
atolls of all sizes, from less than two miles in diameter to sixty miles
(excluding Tilla-dou-Matte, as it consists of a number of almost
independent atoll-formed reefs); and there are encircling barrier-reefs
from three miles and a half to forty-six miles in diameter,--Turtle Island
being an instance of the former, and Hogoleu of the latter. At Tahiti the
encircled island is thirty-six miles in its longest axis, whilst at Maurua
it is only a little more than two miles. It will be shown, in the last
chapter in this volume, that there is the strictest resemblance in the
grouping of atolls and of common islands, and consequently there must be
the same resemblance in the grouping of atolls and of encircling

The islands lying within reefs of this class, are of very various heights.
Tahiti is 7,000 feet (The height of Tahiti is given from Captain Beechey;
Maurua from Mr. F.D. Bennett ("Geograph. Journ." volume viii., page 220);
Aitutaki from measurements made on board the "Beagle"; and Manouai or
Harvey Island, from an estimate by the Rev. J. Williams. The two latter
islands, however, are not in some respects well characterised examples of
the encircled class.); Maurua about 800; Aitutaki 360, and Manouai only 50.
The geological nature of the included land varies: in most cases it is of
ancient volcanic origin, owing apparently to the fact that islands of this
nature are most frequent within all great seas; some, however, are of
madreporitic limestone, and others of primary formation, of which latter
kind New Caledonia offers the best example. The central land consists
either of one island, or of several: thus, in the Society group, Eimeo
stands by itself; while Taha and Raiatea (Figure 3, Plate I.), both
moderately large islands of nearly equal size, are included in one reef.
Within the reef of the Gambier group there are four large and some smaller
islands (Figure 8, Plate I.); within that of Hogoleu (Figure 2, Plate I.)
nearly a dozen small islands are scattered over the expanse of one vast

After the details now given, it may be asserted that there is not one point
of essential difference between encircling barrier-reefs and atolls: the
latter enclose a simple sheet of water, the former encircle an expanse with
one or more islands rising from it. I was much struck with this fact, when
viewing, from the heights of Tahiti, the distant island of Eimeo standing
within smooth water, and encircled by a ring of snow-white breakers.
Remove the central land, and an annular reef like that of an atoll in an
early stage of its formation is left; remove it from Bolabola, and there
remains a circle of linear coral-islets, crowned with tall cocoa-nut trees,
like one of the many atolls scattered over the Pacific and Indian Oceans.

The barrier-reefs of Australia and of New Caledonia deserve a separate
notice from their great dimensions. The reef on the west coast of New
Caledonia (Figure 5, Plate II.) is 400 miles in length; and for a length of


Back to Full Books