Seaward Sussex
by
Edric Holmes
Part 3 out of 3
(This was possibly the shrine of St. Richard.)
Payd to Mother Lee for apparellinge of XV
mens albes XIIII d
unto hyr for a dosen of childrens albes IIII d
unto hyr for the makinge of a towell I d
Payd unto Thomas Nowye for pollynge and shavinge of
the chorusters crounes for VI quarters ending at our
Ladye in Lente VIII s
In 1553 Lambart Barnard the painter received an annual payment of
L3 6s. 8d. for his works in the church "in arte suae facultate sua
pictoria" (_sic_).
This Barnard was probably a relative of Bernhardi.
The surroundings of the Cathedral on the south side are very pleasant
and the second visit should be made by way of the Canon Lane Gate in
South Street. On the right is the Vicar's Close and, farther on, the
Deanery (1725). The passage called St. Richard's Walk gives a
particularly beautiful view of the Cathedral.
[Illustration: CHICHESTER CROSS.]
Chichester Cross is the next object of general interest. It was built
by Bishop Story in 1500 and received rough treatment from Waller's men.
On the east side is a bronze bust of Charles I. The clock was presented
by Dame Elizabeth Farringdon in 1724 as "an hourly memento of her
goodwill to the city"; it has not, however, added to the beauty of the
cross. The central column is surrounded by a stone seat which bears
witness to the generations who have used it as a resting place. The
stone lantern which crowns the whole dates from the eighteenth century.
We may now proceed up North Street, passing on the right St. Olave's
Church. A quantity of Roman materials have been found in the walls, and
some authorities declare the south door to be actual Roman work; it is
undoubtedly the oldest building in the town. The Council House is at
the corner of Lion Street; here may be seen the Pudens Stone already
described.
At the end of Lion Street stands St. Mary's Hospital. This was
originally a convent founded in 1158; for some unknown reason the nuns
were evicted in the following century, since then it has been an
almshouse, probably the oldest foundation of its kind in the county. It
supports eight poor persons who live in tiny two-roomed dwellings round
the sides of the great hall. At the end of this is the Decorated chapel
separated from the remainder of the building by an open screen. The
main portion of the building is Early English and a great deal of
timber has been used in the construction. Visitors should enter without
waiting for permission, and one of the courteous ladies will, if
required, show the chapel. The whole makes a quaint and pleasing
picture, quite unique in its way.
[Illustration: ST. MARY'S HOSPITAL, CHICHESTER.]
We may continue along St. Martin's Lane northwards to the Guildhall, no
longer used as such. This was originally the chapel of the Grey Friars.
It has a very fine Early English window; the sedilia should also be
seen. The building was for many years used as a court of justice; its
future is still uncertain.
The city walls are not far distant; though not continuous, considerable
portions have been laid out as public promenades. They are for the most
part constructed of flints and undoubtedly have a Roman base. Some
lines of fortifications about a mile north of the walls, locally called
the "Broyles," are supposed to be Roman works, possibly in connexion
with the military station or garrison.
Returning to the city's centre at the Cross, St. Andrew's Church in
East Street may be visited; this has a Roman pavement at a depth of
about five feet. The poet Collins is buried within the church. Note the
slab on the outside wall which up to the present has kept its secret
from archaeologists.
A very interesting museum in South Street contains a quantity of local
finds. Particular note should be made of the pottery removed from a
British tomb at Walberton; also of the curious old lantern called the
"moon," formerly carried in municipal processions after dark.
The "Pallant," a corruption of Palatinate, was once an ecclesiastical
peculiar; it consists of four streets between South and East Streets.
In West Street is the Prebendal school at which Selden commenced his
education. This street has a very fine specimen of seventeenth-century
architecture, built by Wren and dated 1696. There are several good old
residences of about this date in South Street.
CHAPTER X
SELSEY AND BOSHAM
Chichester Harbour ends just west of the town and close to the
Portsmouth high road at New Fishbourne, a pleasant little place with a
restored Early English church. This may be said to be the north-western
limit of the Selsey Peninsula, one of the most primitive corners of
southern England. The few visitors who make use of the light railway to
Selsey have little or no knowledge of the lonely hamlets scattered over
the wind-swept flats, in which many old customs linger and where the
Saxon dialect may be heard in all its purity.
[Illustration: THE LOWLANDS.]
Selsey--"Seals' Island"[2]--was the scene of the first conversions to
Christianity in Sussex and, for this reason, a semi-sacred land to the
early mediaeval church in the south.
[2] Two seals were seen on the west of the Selsea Peninsula in
December, 1919, and one of them was shot for preservation in a
local museum.
St. Wilfrid's first visit was unpremeditated; he was shipwrecked while
returning from a visit to France, where his consecration had taken
place in A.D. 665. His reception was so hostile that after getting
safely away he decided to return at some future date and convert the
Barbarians to more gentle ways. Not for fifteen years did his
opportunity come. Then, despoiled of his northern bishopric, for
Wilfrid was a turbulent Churchman, he came prepared, we must suppose,
for the reception usually meted out to the saints in those days. The
heathen Saxons, however, were now in a different mood, for "no rain had
fallen in that province for three years before his arrival, wherefore a
dreadful famine ensued which cruelly destroyed the people.... It is
reported that very often, forty or fifty men, being spent with want,
would go together to some precipice, or to the sea-shore, and there
hand in hand perish by the fall, or be swallowed-up by the waves."
(Ven. Bede.)
The efforts of the missionary saint met with success. The unprecedented
sufferings of the people had been ignored by their tribal deities and
the offer of a new faith was eagerly accepted. The King had been
converted, possibly in secret, before this. The baptism of the leading
chieftain was followed by the breaking of the terrible drought. The
fruits of the woods came to feed the bodies of those who had accepted
the food of the spirit, and "the King being made pious and gentle by
God, granted him (Wilfrid) his own town in which he lived, for a
bishop's see, with lands of 87 houses in Selesie afterwards added
thereto, to the holy new evangelist and baptist who opened to him and
all his people the way of everlasting life, and there he founded a
monastery for a resting-place for his assembled brothers, which even to
this day belongs to his servants." (Eddi's _Life of Bishop Wilfrid_.)
The monastery site was probably the same as that of the cathedral, now
beneath the waves, about a mile east of the present Selsey church.
[Illustration: FISHBOURNE MANOR.]
To explore the peninsula a start should be made at Appledram, a small
village close to Chichester Channel and about two miles south-east of
the city; here is a fine Early English church, on the south of which is
an ancient farm-house, originally a tower built by one Renan in the
reign of Edward II. The King would not grant permission for its
crenellation, Renan thereupon disposed of most of the materials and
they were used to build the campanile at Chichester. Footpaths lead
across the meadows to Donnington where is another Early English church
of but little interest. A mile away on the banks of the disused
Chichester and Arundel canal is the strangely named "Manhood End." This
is a corruption of Mainwood, and refers to the great forest which once
stretched from the Downs to the sea. A rather dull walk westwards past
Birdham to West Itchenor, a remote little place on the shores of the
creek, is amply repaid by the fine views northwards up the Bosham
channel, with the far-flung line of the Downs beyond. (A ferry can be
taken from here which would make a short cut to Bosham or Fishbourne
practicable.) Returning past the church with its interesting font, a
footpath is taken to West Wittering and its very fine Transitional
church, the most interesting ecclesiastical building in the Selsey
Peninsula; note the two rude sculptures of the Annunciation and
Resurrection at the ends of a canopied altar tomb; and a coffin lid
with pastoral staff possibly of a "boy-bishop." We are now on that
portion of the coast which approximates most nearly to the original
spot, now beneath the waves, where the first colonists of Sussex
landed.
[Illustration: FISHBOURNE CHURCH.]
At East Wittering a short distance away is an Early English church with
a Norman door. This is not far from Bracklesham Bay, an adventurous
excursion for Selsey Beach visitors who come here treasure hunting for
fossils, of which large numbers repay careful search. To reach Selsey
"town" devious ways must be taken past Earnley, which is surely the
quietest and most remote hamlet in the kingdom, on the road from
nowhere to nowhere; or we may, if impervious to fatigue, follow the
beach all the way to Selsey Bill. The settlement is easily approached
from Chichester and the South Coast line by the Selsey Tramway (8
miles). The charm of the place, which consists in a great measure in
its air of remoteness, is likely to be soon destroyed. Pleasant
bungalows, of a more solid type than usual, are springing up everywhere
between the railway and the Bill, though here we may still stand on the
blunt-nosed end of Sussex and watch the sun rise or set in the sea.
It would be interesting to know if the quality of the buildings erected
will enable them to last until the sea eventually disposes of Selsey.
The encroachment of the waves, especially on the eastern side of the
Bill, has been more rapid than on any other part of the coast, except
perhaps certain parts of Norfolk. The sea immediately east of Selsey is
called the "Park"; this was actually a deer-park no longer ago than
Tudor times and in Camden's day the foundations of Selsey Cathedral
could be seen at low water.
The Transitional church was rebuilt in 1867 from the materials of the
older church, two miles away at Church Norton, where the chancel still
remains among its old mossy tombs. Each stone and beam was placed in
the same position on the new site. The old chancel at Church Norton
contains a battered tomb to John Lewes and his wife (1537). Near-by is
a mediaeval rectory, once a priory, dating from the fourteenth century,
very quaint and picturesque.
We now follow the line of the light railway. At Sidlesham, the first
halt, is a restored Early English church containing a fine old chest.
Note the curious epitaphs within and also on the gravestones in the
churchyard, and, not least, the queer names that accompany
them:--"Glue," "Gravy," "Earwicker" etc.
From the station a footpath may be taken to Pagham and what is left of
the harbour of that name. Here there was until late years a curious
phenomenon known as the "Hushing Well." A rush of air would burst
through the water in the harbour at the time of the incoming tide. The
"well" was destroyed by draining operations which also caused the
disappearance of large numbers of rare water fowl and aquatic insects,
though the naturalist will still be repaid by a visit to this lonely
coast and its immediate surroundings. A short time ago the sea made an
entrance, but without reconstructing the old conditions. It is no
longer practicable to walk along the coast to Bognor.
Pagham Church is an interesting Early English building dedicated to St.
Thomas of Canterbury and erected by a successor to St. Augustine's
Chair. Note a slab in the chancel with Lombardic lettering and the old
glass in the east window. The scanty remains of the episcopal palace
may be seen southeast of the church.
From Hunston Halt a walk of about a mile westwards leads to another
remote and straggling village, North Mundham. In the restored church is
a Saxon font and certain curious sculptures may be seen outside the
door. From here it is only two miles to Chichester, passing
Rumboldswyke church, which has interesting features, including Roman
brickwork in the chancel arch.
The Portsmouth road, in three miles from Chichester, reaches Walton,
where a turning to the left leads in another mile to Bosham, certainly
the most interesting relic of the past in West Sussex. Bosham (pron.
_Bozam_) to-day seems existent solely in the interest of artists; it is
certainly the most besketched place on the South Coast and is rarely,
in fine weather, without one or more easels on its quiet quay. The best
loved hours of the day for the painting or sketching fraternity--those
of low tide, when every boat lies at a different angle--will be the
most unpopular for the ordinary visitor, who will be eager for the
friendly smoke-scented parlour of the inn as a refuge from the flavour
of the malodorous flats; at low tide Bosham is certainly picturesque,
at the full she is comely and clean.
[Illustration: BOSHAM.]
The harbour, from British, through Roman, Saxon and Norman times to the
later middle ages, was one of the principal entrances to and exits from
this county. It was on several occasions harried by the Danes and, as
depicted on the Bayeux Tapestry, Harold left here on that visit which
was to have such dire consequences for himself and his line, and such
untold results on the history of the nation-to-be. The great Emperor of
the North--Knut--was a frequent visitor to the creek in his
dragon-prowed barque. His palace, also the home of Earl Godwin and
Harold, is supposed to have been on the northeast of the church, where
a moat is still in existence. It is here that the incident recorded in
every school reader, the historic rebuke to sycophantic courtiers, is
said to have taken place.
The church is of venerable antiquity. The tower has certain indications
which point to its being Saxon work. The chancel arch may be still
older in its base, and some authorities suggest that the lower portions
are actually the remains of the basilica erected in the time of
Constantine, on the site of which the church now stands. The east
portions of the chancel are Early English and once formed the chapel of
a college founded by William Warlewaste, Bishop of Exeter (1120). Note
the figure in the north wall, said to be that of the daughter of Knut
who died here while on a visit to Earl Godwin. The effigy is, however,
of much later date. The fine arcaded font is placed upon high steps
against a column. At the east end of the south aisle the floor is
raised over an Early English crypt or charnel-house, the entrance to
which is close to a canopied tomb. This tomb is that of Herbert of
Bosham, secretary to Becket, who wrote the _Book of Becket's
Martyrdom_.
[Illustration: BOSHAM MILL.]
The church was restored in 1865 and during this work the most
interesting discovery was made of the traditional burial place of
Knut's daughter. How often has a local tradition, accepted as fact by
the peasant, but looked upon as an idle tale by his educated superior,
proved to have more than a grain of truth in it and sometimes to be a
very circumstantial record of actualities, and fully supported by
antiquarian research. The exact position of the grave is shown by the
figure of a Danish raven painted upon a tile, and a stone slab with an
inscription upon it placed by the children of Bosham in 1906.
One of the ancient bells was stolen by Danish pirates; the story goes
that when half way to the open sea a storm arose which swamped the boat
in consequence of the great weight of the metal on board. On high
festivals of the Church, a Bosham man will tell you, its sound can be
heard from the waves mingling with the chimes of the modern bells of
the tower. As a matter of fact the echo of the peal, thrown back by the
woods of West Itchenor, is, in certain favourable conditions of the
atmosphere, distinctly like a second chime, and might deceive a
stranger into thinking that another church lay across the water.
[Illustration: BOSHAM. THE STRAND.]
A most interesting fact recorded by the Venerable Bede is that when
Wilfrid of York came here in 681 he found a religious house ruled by a
monk named Dicul. It was this monk who had converted King Ethelwalch
before Wilfrid arrived. The existence of this tiny community in the
midst of hostile tribes, over two hundred years after the extinction of
Christianity in the south, is a matter of high romance in the history
of the faith in Britain.
There are two other isolated bits of Sussex on the south of the high
road to Emsworth, the first containing the small hamlet of Chidham with
a beautiful little Early English church; the next is occupied by West
Thorney. Here is another church of the same period with a Transitional
tower and a Norman font. This peninsula was until quite recently an
island and the home of innumerable sea fowl.
Emsworth is almost entirely in Hampshire and therefore outside our
limits, but we can well make it the starting place for the last corner
of seaward Sussex unexplored.
Westbourne, one mile north of Emsworth, has a fine Transitional church
with a large number of monuments and an imposing avenue of yews. At
Racton to the north-east is the well-known seamark tower used by
mariners in the navigation of the channels of Chichester Harbour. The
church has a monument to an ancestor of that Colonel Gunter who took
part in the escape of Charles II. Near by is Lordington House, erected
by the father of Cardinal Pole and said to be haunted by the ghost of
that Countess of Salisbury who, when an old woman upwards of seventy,
was beheaded by the order of Henry VIII, and caused the headman much
trouble by refusing to place her head upon the block; an illustration
by Cruickshank depicts the executioner chasing the Countess round the
platform.
[Illustration: THE WESTERN DOWNS.]
Several roads lead north through beautiful country, covered by lonely
and unfrequented woodlands, to the Mardens. West Marden is about five
miles from Emsworth and close to the Hampshire border; all the four
villages which bear this name are among the most primitive in southern
England. At North Marden is a plain unrestored Norman church, the only
one in the immediate vicinity which is worth a visit for its own sake.
Compton, a mile beyond West Marden, has a Transitional Norman church
partly rebuilt; this is close to Lady Holt Park, a favourite retreat of
Pope; and Up Park, a fine expanse of woodland, where the Carylls once
lived; their estates were forfeited for their championship of the
Stuarts. The northern end of the park rises to the edge of the Downs
close to Torberry Hill, the last summit in Sussex, though the traveller
who is so inclined may, with much advantage to himself, penetrate into
the lonely recesses of the Hampshire hills, sacred to the shade of
Gilbert White, and, still within the probable limits of the _ancient_
kingdom of Sussex, finish his travels at Butser Hill and Petersfield.
Butser Hill is 889 feet above the sea, and therefore higher than any
point of the range within Sussex. This well-known summit is familiar to
all travellers on the Portsmouth road, from which it rises with
imposing effect on the west of the pass beyond Petersfield. Here the
South Downs, so called, may be said to end. The chalk hills are
continued right across Hampshire, slowly diminishing in height until
they are lost in the great plateau of Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire.
[Illustration: HARTING.]
Between a fold of the hills lies picturesque Harting in a most
delightful situation; an ideal spot for a restful time away from
twentieth-century conditions. The tourist, if amenable to the simple
life, might well make a stay of a few days to explore the lovely
country of which this village forms the centre. The finely placed Early
English cruciform church has several interesting monuments to members
of former local families, including sixteenth century memorials of the
Cowper-Coles. Here is buried Lord Grey, who was connected with the Rye
House Plot. Notice the embroidery in the reredos, an unusual style;
also the fine wooden roof and shorn pillars; the latter detract from
the general effect of the interior and have been noticed in other
Downland churches on our route. Quite close to the church are the old
village stocks, undoubtedly placed in this position for the sake of
convenience, the "court" in more remote districts having been held, in
former times, in the church itself. Harting was for a time the home of
Anthony Trollope, and Cardinal Pole was rector here.
There are few districts in England and certainly none south of the
Trent where old customs and queer legends persist with so much vitality
as in these lonely combes and hollows. The effect of being out of the
world is perhaps enhanced in these western Downs by the ring fence of
dark woods through which we have to pass to reach the bare, wind-swept
solitudes and lonely hamlets within them. The northern escarpment and
southern flanks of the hills are clothed in vast forests of beech which
add that grandeur to the great ramparts of chalk which the eastern
ranges lack. Seen through the ever-shifting sea mists which creep up
from the channel these heights take on an appearance of greater
altitude and an added glamour of mystery.
South-east of Harting is the isolated Beacon Hill, once a semaphore
station between Portsmouth and London; but instead of taking at once to
the heights, the pedestrian should first visit Elsted up on its own
little hill, and Treyford a mile farther; both churches are ruined and
deserted. A new church with a spire that forms a landmark for many
miles, stands midway between the two and serves both. Elsted has an inn
from the doorway of which the traveller has a superb view of the Downs.
From Treyford a bridle-path leads directly south to the summit of
Treyford Hill, where are five barrows called "The Devil's Jumps." From
here the track running along the top of the Down will bring us in two
miles to the bold spurs of Linch Down (818 feet), the finest view-point
on the western Downs, the views over the Weald being magnificent in all
directions. A track will have been noticed on the west side of the
summit, and a return should be made to this, and then by striking
southwards through the Westdean woods we eventually reach Chilgrove. We
might then climb the opposite spur and keep southwards until the ridge
rises to the escarpment of Bow Hill, but the finest walk of all and the
most fitting termination to our tour will be to keep to the rough road
which runs down the valley south-east to Welldown Farm. Here a road
turns right and in a little over a mile drops to the romantically
beautiful Kingley Vale.
This vale is a cup-shaped hollow in the south side of Bow Hill; its
steep sides are clothed in a sombre garb of yews and at the farther end
of the combe is a solemn grove of these venerable trees amid which
broad noon becomes a mystic twilight filled with the spirit of awe; a
fitting place for the burial of warrior kings with wild, barbaric rite.
Tradition has it that many Danish chieftains were here defeated and
slain and that here beneath the yews they rest. But who shall say what
other strange scenes these lonely deeps in the bosom of the hills have
witnessed before Saxon or Dane replaced the Celt; who in turn, for all
his fierce and arrogant ways, went, by night, in fear and trembling of
those spiteful little men he himself displaced, and whose vengeance or
pitiful gratitude is perpetuated in the first romances of our
childhood. Though their living homes were in the primeval forests of
the Britain that was, their last long resting places were under the
open skies on the summits of the wind-swept Downs. Many of the smooth
green barrows that enclosed their remains have been ruthlessly rifled
and desecrated by greed or curiosity. It is to be hoped that the
votaries of this form of archaeological research have now discovered all
that they desired to know, and that our far-off ancestors will be left
to the peace we do not grudge our more immediate forefathers.
Appendix
THE SUSSEX DOWNS FROM END TO END
The following summary will suggest to the stranger how his time, if
limited, could be so disposed as to take in the whole range with those
villages which are essentially Downland settlements and those which lie
immediately at the foot of the escarpment. For this purpose the order
of the book is reversed and the tourist should start at the western or
Hampshire end and finish his walk at Beachy Head. The enjoyment of this
tour will of course be greatly enhanced if half the distance is
traversed each day, thus doubling the time.
[Illustration: COWDRAY COTTAGE.]
1ST DAY.
Midhurst (Angel Inn) or Cocking Station via Lynch Down, Beacon Hill, to
Harting, 9 miles (Ship Inn).
2ND DAY.
Harting to Bow Hill and Kingley Bottom via North and East Marden, 8
miles; on to West Dean, Singleton and Cocking (Inn), 17 miles; or
Midhurst, 20 miles.
3RD DAY.
Cocking by Heyshott Down and Duncton Beacon to East Dean, 7 miles
(Inn); on by Burton Down and Bignor Hill (Stane Street) to Bignor, 13
miles (Inn); on to Amberley, 19 miles (Inn).
4TH DAY.
Amberley to Rackham and Kithurst Hills; down to Storrington (White
Horse Inn), 5 miles. By the main road to Washington (Inn) and Wiston.
Ascend Chanctonbury Ring, 10 miles; on to Cissbury Ring and over Downs
at Steyning, 16 miles (White Horse).
5TH DAY.
Steyning via Bramber and Upper Beeding to Trueleigh Hill and Devil's
Dyke, 6 miles (Inn); down to Poynings, round Newtimber Hill to Pyecombe
and Wolstonbury, thence by hill road to Ditchling Beacon, 12 miles; on
by edge of Downs to Mount Harry and down to Lewes, 18 miles (White
Hart, Crown, etc.)
6TH DAY.
Lewes over Cliffe Hill and Mount Caburn to Glynde and West Firle, 4
miles (Inn); over Firle Beacon and along edge of Downs to Alfriston, 9
miles (Star Inn); by Lullington to Windover Hill ("Long Man of
Wilmington") down to Jevington, 12 miles (Inn); up to Willingdon Hill
and thence by eastern edge of Downs all the way to Beachy Head, 17
miles. Eastbourne, 20 miles.
[Illustration: SKETCH MAP OF THE ROADS FROM LONDON TO THE DOWNS.]
Appendix II
LONDON TO THE SOUTH DOWNS--THE WEALD
The writer of the preceding chapters has often been tempted to trespass
outside the limits imposed upon him, and penetrate the woody fastnesses
of the Weald. In this separate section a short description will be
given of some of the most characteristic scenes and interesting towns
and villages between London and the coast.
A certain proportion of the pleasure of a holiday is, or should be,
obtained on the journey toward the goal. This is, of course, much more
the case where road rather than rail is taken, and most of the routes
to the south run through a lovely and varied countryside which will
repay a leisurely mode of progression. To the writer there is no way of
seeing England equal to doing that on foot; however, it would be
unreasonable to expect every one to adopt this mode of travelling even
if they were able, and these notes can easily be followed by motorist
or cyclist without undue loss of time.
LONDON TO LEWES BY WESTERHAM AND MARESFIELD
This road keeps within Kent until the boundary of Sussex is reached,
and runs via Catford Bromley and Keston, climbing gradually to
Westerham Hill, after which there is a steep and dangerous descent to
the small town of Westerham (23 miles) pleasantly situated between the
North Downs and the sandy hills of the Surrey Weald. It is famous as
the birthplace of Wolfe, whose statue adorns the green, around which is
grouped the quietly dignified assemblage of inns, shops and houses that
are typical of this part of Kent. The large and finely situated church
also has a memorial to the local hero, who was born in the vicarage
here and buried at Greenwich.
The road continues through pleasant country over Crockham Hill to
Edenbridge (28 m.) on the small river Eden. Although the immediate
surroundings are dull and featureless this is a good centre from which
to explore the district eastwards to Hever, Penshurst, and Tonbridge.
One mile out of the town we bear left and, in another three, cross the
Kent Water into Sussex. In 7-1/2 miles the road passes over the Medway
to Hartfield (33-1/2 m.) on the edge of Ashdown Forest. The Early
English church has a lych-gate dating from 1520. Inside may be seen
three piscinas, one in an uncommon position near the south door.
[A long mile east is Withyam, with a Perpendicular church famous
for its monuments of the Dorset family. Only a gateway remains of
the ancient Buckhurst mansion, the greater part of the materials
going to the erection of Sackville college at East Grinstead.]
From Hartfield we climb steadily towards the centre of the Forest with
occasional wide views between the close woods which line the northern
slopes.
[Before reaching Camp Hill and near the summit, a path leads left
to Crowborough, which of late years has become suburban and a
second Haslemere. The Beacon commands wide views, but the
immediate surroundings have been spoilt.]
We now drop towards Maresfield with grand forward views over the Weald
to the South Downs.
Maresfield (41 m.) has a small Decorated church with a Norman window in
the nave. Note the ancient woodwork and restored oak porch, also two
stoups, one within and the other outside the church. This was once an
important "Black Country" centre. Local names, such as "The Forge"
perpetuate the memory of this strange period in the history of Sussex,
which was at its busiest about 1680, the last furnace being quenched in
1828.
"It is a strange thing to remember, when one is standing on the cold
desolate hills about Crowborough Beacon, or in the glens of the Tilgate
Forest--now the very picture of quiet, and rest, and loneliness--that
this same Sussex was once the iron mart of England. Once, spotted over
these hills and through these forests, there were forges that roared
from morning till night, chimneys that sent up their smoke and their
poisonous vapour from one year's end to another; cannon were cast ...
where now there is no harsher voice than the tap of the woodpecker....
One cannot fancy the forests of St. Leonards and Ashdown, the
Wolverhampton of their age. But so it was; and not the least remarkable
thing ... is the absence of traditions about the life and customs of
the manufacturers so employed." (Lower.)
[From Maresfield a round of about thirty miles could be made
through the beautiful East Sussex Weald, rejoining the main road
at Uckfield. In two miles is Buxted, which has an interesting
Early English church standing high amidst woods. In the Decorated
chancel is the brass of Britellus Avenel (1408) and J. de Lewes
(1330), by whom the church was founded. Note the old muniment
chest in the north aisle and the mortuary chapel of the Earls of
Liverpool south of the chancel. Not far from the church is "Hog
House," note the hog carved over the door and dated 1581. The
Hogge family, ironmasters, once lived here. In 1543 was cast the
first iron cannon made in this country.
"Master Huggett and his man John,
They did cast the first cannon."
Not far away is the one time cell of a hermit, carved out of the
rock, and named "The Vineyard." The road now winds through a
remote country, which once resounded with the clangour of the
forge, to Hadlow Down and Butcher's Cross and in seven miles
reaches Mayfield. The village street is according to Coventry
Patmore the "sweetest in Sussex." The half-timbered "Middle
House" nearly opposite the church is the best example of this
style of architecture in the south, it is dated 1575. Lower House
was built about 1625. The fine Perpendicular church is on the
site of the traditional building erected by St. Dunstan. This was
made of wood, and the Saint, finding that the orientation was not
quite true, set his shoulder to the wall and pushed it straight!
The visitor will note the fine effect of the raised chancel, the
roof of which is composed of a one time gallery. Note, among
other objects, the old screen and choir stalls; a squint; font
dated 1666; iron slabs in the nave to the Sands (1668 and 1708);
monument to T. Aynscombe (1620); chandeliers; and curious east
window; and, not least, the glorious view from the churchyard.
The Palace of the Archbishops is now a convent: it was restored
by Pugin after being in a state of ruin for many years. Certain
portions may be seen at uncertain times. In the ancient
dining-room are preserved the hammer, tongs and anvil of St.
Dunstan. The Saint's well is in the garden. It was hereabouts
that St. Dunstan had his great tussle with the Devil, holding the
fiend by the nose with his tongs; eventually the Evil One
wrenched himself free; making an eight mile leap he cooled his
nose in a pool of water, giving it for ever "a flavour of warm
flat irons" and making the fortune of the future Tunbridge
Wells. Mayfield has another claim to a niche in history, not a
quaint old tale like the above but a sombre fact:--
"Next followed four, which suffered at Mayfield, in Sussex, the
twenty-fourth of September 1556, of whose names we find two
recorded, and the other two we yet know not, and therefore,
according to our register, hereunder they be specified, as we
find them: John Hart, Thomas Ravendale, a shoemaker and a
carrier, which said four being at the place where they should
suffer, after they had made their prayers, and were at the stake
ready to abide the force of the fire, they constantly and
joyfully yielded their lives for the testimony of the glorious
Gospel of Jesus Christ." (Foxe.)
The scenery hereabouts is distinctly of Devonian character. Rich
and varied views reward the leisurely traveller who will make a
side excursion to Rotherfield, passing, halfway the conical Argos
Hill crowned with a windmill. The village, though not so
interesting as Mayfield, is well placed and has a fine
Perpendicular church, the spire being a landmark for many miles.
Here is an east window by Burne Jones and several other good
examples of modern stained glass which make fine splashes of
colour in the old building. A quaint saying in reference to the
handsome presence of the Rotherfield women is that they have an
"extra pair of ribs."
The beautiful district between here and Tunbridge Wells deserves
a chapter to itself. Frant Wadhurst and Ticehurst belong more
naturally to West Kent than East Sussex. These three beautiful
villages and the glorious Eridge Park could be combined in this
excursion by the traveller who has unlimited time.
We may now follow the valley of the Rother through scenery of
much quiet beauty to Burwash, 6-1/2 miles from Mayfield. Here is
an old church with a (possibly) Saxon tower and an interesting
iron slab inscribed "Orate p Annima Johne Colins," probably the
oldest piece of local ironwork in existence. The outline of the
village is eminently satisfying to the artist, especially the
house called "Rampyndens." Burwash is connected with the Rev. J.
Cocker Egerton, to whom reference has already been made. From the
natives of this particular district was gleaned that record of
rustic humour which makes the Sussex peasant depicted in his
writings so real to those who know him. The village has lately
become the home of Rudyard Kipling, who lives at "Batemans," a
beautiful old house in an adjacent valley surrounded by wooded
hills. "Puck of Pooks Hill" is said to have been inspired by the
locality. Brightling Beacon, three miles farther, commands the
finest prospect of the western Weald, the immediate foreground
being of great beauty. Brightling church should also be seen.
A return could now be made by way of Heathfield, from Brightling,
passing Cade Street. Here a monument commemorates the death of
Jack Cade, who was shot by an arrow discharged by Alexander Iden,
Sheriff of Kent, in 1450. Cade had been hiding at Newick Farm;
gaining confidence he came out for a game of bowls and met his
end while playing. Heathfield _old_ village and church are off
the main road to the left; our route passes the railway station
and runs westwards to Cross-in-Hand and Blackboys; this road is a
succession of lovely views throughout the seven miles to Framfield,
where there is a Tudor church. A short two miles more brings us to
our main route at Uckfield.]
[Illustration: MIDDLE HOUSE, MAYFIELD.]
Uckfield (43-1/2 m.) old church was pulled down in the early nineteenth
century, and its successor is of no interest. An old stone house in
front of the "King's Head" was once the village lock-up. A picturesque
outcrop of the Hastings sandstone around a small lake forms a beauty
spot of local fame: it is within the demesne of "The Rocks" on the west
of the town.
[An alternative route to Lewes could be taken from Uckfield
through the best part of the Ouse valley; nearly half-way and on
the right is Isfield ("Eyefield"), the church is interesting.]
The road now bears south-east to High Cross and then by Halland to East
Hoathly (48-1/4 m.). The church here has the Pelham buckle as a
dripstone. Note the Norman piscina. In five miles the little hamlet of
Horsebridge is reached. We are now in the Cuckmere valley.
[One mile short of this a round of four miles could be made via
The Dicker to Mickleham Priory and Hailsham. The Priory is now a
farmhouse; the position of the chapel is shown by some arches
built into the wall. The interior has a fine cowled fireplace and
Early English crypt. The gatehouse is the only complete portion
of the Priory buildings. Permission must be obtained to view the
interior.]
The Eastbourne road crosses the Cuckmere and turns sharp to the right
before reaching the railway.
Hailsham (55-1/2 m.). The fine pinnacled tower of the church shows up
well above the roofs of the old market town, which, however, has little
to show the visitor and is not particularly picturesque. The immediate
surroundings of the road are tame until we enter the woodlands, which
surround the route almost to Polegate (58-1/2 m.). We now have fine
views of the Downs on our right front though Willingdon to Eastbourne
(63 m.).
LONDON TO SEAFORD BY EAST GRINSTEAD AND LEWES
This route follows the Brighton road through Croydon to Purley (12-1/2
m.). Here we bear south-east and follow the Eastbourne road through
suburban but pleasant Kenley and Whyteleafe to Caterham (17-1/2 m.).
The North Downs are crossed between Gravelly hill (Water Tower) and
Marden Castle, followed by a long descent to Godstone (20 m.), built
around a charming green with a fine old inn ("Clayton Arms") on the
left. A lane at the side of the inn leads to the interesting church and
almshouses. The direct road onwards, runs over Tilburstow Hill (500
feet), but the better route bears left and passes Godstone station,
rejoining the old road at Springfield (23 m.).
[At Blindley Heath a road bears left to Lingfield, a pretty
village with an interesting church, once collegiate. Note
misererie seats and choir screen (fifteenth century). Tombs of
the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Lord Cobhams and other interesting tombs and
brasses.]
[Illustration: HIGH STREET, EAST GRINSTEAD.]
At Fellbridge, just past the Horley road, we enter Sussex and, after a
short rise and fall, arrive at East Grinstead (30 m.). This is one of
the pleasantest towns of the Weald, with many old houses here and there
in the High Street. The church, though of imposing appearance from a
distance, is, on closer acquaintance, disappointing; the fabric dating
from 1790. Note an iron tomb slab (1570). Not far from the church is
the Jacobean Sackville College. Here the celebrated Father Neale was
warden for twenty-five years. (In barely two miles from the centre of
the town a lane leads over the railway to the right in 1/3 mile to the
picturesque ruins of Brambletye.)
Forest Row (33 m.), on the river Medway. The road now climbs steadily
between woods to Wych Cross (35 m.). Grand views south and west. This
is one of the finest passes over the Forest Ridge and the peculiar
characteristics of the Hastings sands are here seen to the best
advantage. These high sandy moors, covered with glorious stretches of
bracken and heather, here and there clothed in dense growths of oak and
beech, with occasional distinctive clumps of Scots fir and beneath all
a thick tangle of bramble, a perfect sanctuary of wild life, are more
reminiscent of Radnor or Galloway than of the south country.
[Illustration: SACKVILLE COLLEGE.]
The right-hand road is taken at the fork and there follows a long coast
down to Danehill, where the Lewes road bears left to Sheffield Green
(40 m.).
[A road to the left would bring us in 2 miles to Fletching, where
the forces of Simon de Montfort started on their march to Mount
Harry and subsequent victory of Lewes. The village is the centre
of a delightful neighbourhood and is delightful in itself, not
only for the charm of its surroundings, but for its quaint and
attractive architecture of the humbler sort. The Early English
church has been well restored and beautified by the Earl of
Sheffield, whose estate lies to the west. Gibbon the historian
lies in the Sheffield mausoleum. Note the old glass in the small
lancet windows; this was buried in the churchyard during some
forgotten trouble and discovered and replaced during the
restoration. Several old helmets and gauntlets with the crest of
the Nevill's are hung in the north transept. A small brass should
be noticed; the inscription refers to a local worthy, P. Devot,
who took part in the Cade rebellion.]
Sheffield Park on the left is full of fine timber; at the end we cross
the Ouse and the railway and keep straight forward to Chailey (43-1/2
m.) with occasional views ahead of the Lewes Downs. Passing Chailey
potteries on the left the road calls for no comment until we pass
Cooksbridge station and draw near the Downs.
Offham (48 m.). Lewes (50 m.). There is a choice of routes to Seaford;
that passing Southease (54 m.) enters Newhaven and crosses the Ouse
there. The alternative road crosses the river in Lewes, runs under
Mount Caburn and going through Beddingham (51-1/4 m.) bears right.
South Heighton (55-1/2 m.).
Seaford (59 m.).
THE BRIGHTON ROAD
This classic fifty-two miles, the scene of many records in coaching,
running, cycling and walking, is the shortest way from London to the
sea, but not by any means the most interesting either for the lover of
nature or the tourist of an antiquarian turn. Distances are reckoned
from Westminster Bridge ("Big Ben"). After Kennington comes a two-mile
ascent from Brixton to Streatham and then a fairly level stretch to
Croydon (10 m.), Whitgift Hospital (1596), Archbishop's Palace, fine
rebuilt church. We now enter the chalk country and pass through
suburban Purley to Merstham (18 m.).
[Reigate (2 m. right). Large Perpendicular church. The town is
pleasant and picturesque but rapidly becoming suburban.]
The road drops between spurs of the North Downs to Redhill (20 m.); a
busy railway junction. Thence over Earlswood Common.
Horley (24-3/4 m.). Interesting church; note yews in churchyard.
Lowfield Heath. Three miles from Horley we pass into Sussex and shortly
reach Crawley (29-1/4 m.). Decorated church. Note the quaint lines on
one of the roof beams. Mark Lemon lived at Vine Cottage in the village.
[The tiny village of Worth, south of the East Grinstead road and
nearly 3 miles from Crawley, should be visited for the sake of
its unique Saxon church, the only one remaining which is complete
in its ground plan. Notice the typical band of stones supported
by pillars which runs round the building; also the curious double
font; pulpit dated 1577 and ancient lych-gate. On the north side
of the church is a "Devil's Door." The exorcized spirit passed
out this way at the sacrament of Baptism.]
We now enter the forest zone. Note the fine retrospect when approaching
Pease Pottage (31-1/4 m.).
[On the left is Tilgate Forest, which is continued by Worth
Forest, whence many lovely and lonely paths lead to Horstead
Keynes and West Hoathly, whose church has a land-mark spire
visible for many miles. Underneath the tower will be seen two
iron grave slabs. Within the church notice the Geometrical
windows and the triple sedilia. The village is picturesque and
well placed, and the local "lion"--"Great upon little," an effect
of denudation, is well known. The village is much nearer the
Seaford road at Wych Cross, but from the present route we have
the advantage of seven miles of woodland otherwise unexplored.
On the right from Pease Pottage, in the recesses of St. Leonard's
Forest, and two miles from the main route, is Holmbush Beacon
Tower. This should be visited for the sake of the magnificent
woodland views; in the distance are the south Downs visible from
Butser Hill behind Portsmouth to the hills surrounding Lewes.
Hindhead, Blackdown, Leith Hill, the North Downs and the
Hampshire Heights are all visible on a clear day.
We are here in a remote district, the haunt of legend and
folk-lore almost unequalled in the south. Here St. Leonard put an
end to the career of a fierce and fiery dragon, but not before
the saint was grievously wounded, and where his blood fell now
grow the lilies of the valley, common here but nowhere else in
the neighbourhood. Headless horsemen, who have an unpleasant
habit of sharing the benighted traveller's steed; witches and
warlocks; white-ladies and were-wolves are in great plenty, and
the normal inhabitants of the forest must have a fervent
appreciation of the high noon and the hours of daylight.]
The two miles south of Pease Pottage are the highest on the road
culminating at Handcross, 504 feet (33-1/2 m.). The road now descends
the steep and dangerous Handcross Hill.
[At the foot of the hill, half mile right, is Slaugham ("Slaffam")
with a Decorated church, old font and brasses.]
Bolney Common (37-1/2 m.) in lovely surroundings. The church has early
Norman, or as some authorities declare, Saxon features. The Norman
south door, covered by a wooden porch dating from the eighteenth
century, should be noticed.
[Cuckfield ("Cookfield") 3 miles left, amidst beautiful scenery,
with a fine Early English church commanding a glorious view. Note
monuments and handsome reredos. Cuckfield Place is the original
of "Rookwood," but has been "improved" out of its ancient
character. The Jacobean gate house still stands unrestored at the
end of the avenue. Close by is Leigh Pond, a fine sheet of
water.]
Albourne Green (42 m.), for Hurstpierpoint (1 m.), beautiful views of
the South Downs which we now ascend to Pyecombe (45-1/2 m.).
Preston (49-1/2 m.).
Brighton (front 51-1/2 m.).
THE HORSHAM ROAD
At Kennington Church we leave the Brighton Way and pass Clapham Common,
Tooting and Merton to Cheam (11-1/4 m.) Ewell and Epsom (14-1/2 m.) The
Downs and Race-course are up to the left.
Ashtead.
Leatherhead (18-1/2 m.). This little town has some picturesque streets,
but is rapidly becoming suburban. The Perpendicular church contains
interesting windows. The scenery now greatly improves and becomes
beautiful after passing Mickleham, a pretty village with a Transitional
church.
[Illustration: CAUSEWAY, HORSHAM.]
Norbury Park, on the right, is one of the most charming places in
Surrey. Box Hill (590 feet), which may easily be ascended from the
well-placed Burford Bridge Hotel, is on the left. The road, river and
rail run through a deep cleft in the North Downs forming the Mole
valley and facing the sandstone hills of the Weald. In the shallow
depression between the two ranges lies Dorking (23-1/4 m.). The town is
pleasant but has nothing of much interest for the visitor. It is for
its fine situation from a scenic point of view and as a convenient
headquarters from which to explore the best of Surrey that it will be
appreciated. The rebuilt parish church is imposing and stands on the
site of the ancient Roman Stane Street. We leave the town by South
Street and proceed to Holmwood, from which Leith Hill may be visited,
though there are more direct and much finer routes from Dorking.
Capel (28-3/4 m.). We are now in quiet wealden scenery and there is
nothing of special interest until we cross the Sussex boundary, about
half a mile beyond the railway bridge. Kingsfold (31-1/2 m.). We now
bear left and again 1-1/2 miles farther by Warnham Pond, with memories
of Shelley.
Horsham (36 m.). This prosperous and pleasant county centre makes a
good halting place. The Early English and Perpendicular church is worth
a visit, although practically rebuilt in the middle of the last
century. The fine proportions and spacious and lofty interior will at
once strike the visitor. Notice the altar tomb of Thomas de Braose
(1396), Lord Hoo (1455), Eliz. Delves (1645), and a brass of Thomas
Clerke (1411). Also the ancient font. The old "Causeway," which leads
to the church from Carfax, as the centre of the town is called, should
be more popular with artists than it is. The wonderful colour of some
of the Horsham roofs will be noticed; this is due to the local stone
with which the older roofs are covered. It seems a pity from an
aesthetic point of view that the quarries are no longer used. The great
weight of the covering had another advantage, it made for sturdy
building and honest workmanship. Horsham no longer has the artificial
importance of returning members to Parliament (at one time, two; and as
lately as 1885 one), but is now merged in the western division of
Sussex, of which district it shares with Midhurst the position of chief
agricultural and commercial centre. The town is also becoming
residential as East Grinstead, on the other side of the county, has
already done.
[Illustration: POND STREET, PETWORTH.]
THE SHOREHAM ROAD
The high road from Horsham skirts Dene Park, which is quite open and
commands fine views of the town and the surrounding Weald. To the right
may be discerned the buildings of Christ's Hospital and Southwater
Station (38-1/2 m.).
Burrell Arms (41-1/2 m.). A halt must be made to view the scanty
remains of Knepp Castle, a one time stronghold of the de Braose family.
Close by is a beautiful lake, the largest sheet of water in the south
of England. The road now bears south-east. To the right and close to
the Adur is West Grinstead. The church, partly Norman, should be seen.
Note the two naves. The old oak seats bear the names of the farms to
whose occupants they have from time immemorial belonged. Behind the
altar of the north nave is an aumbry, and in the roof above is a cover
once used for suspending the canopy over the Host. There are several
interesting monuments including two altar tombs in the Burrell chantry
with fine fifteenth century brasses. Note the font, an old stone
coffin, foliated lancets, fragments of old stained glass and some
remains of ancient frescoes. The rectory is a good specimen of
Elizabethan building. West Grinstead House, once the home of the
Carylls, friends of Pope, "This verse to Caryl, Muse, is due," _Rape of
the Lock_. The poem is said to have been written under the shade of
"Pope's Oak" in the park.
[Cowfold, 3 miles east, is chiefly remarkable for the Carthusian
Monastery dedicated to St. Hugh. Its spire is a landmark for many
miles. This has been the home of exiled French monks since 1877.
Visitors are very courteously shown over the greater part of the
building, which is of much interest and contains several venerated
relics brought from the monastery of the Grand Chartreuse. The
magnificent brass to Nelond, Prior of Lewes, in the parish church
should also be seen.]
We now continue south-east and cross the railway to Shoreham. The tall
spire seen on the left is St. Hugh's Monastery (above). Partridge Green
station (44-1/4 m.), Ashurst (46-1/4 m.), with an Early English church.
At the top of every rise we are rewarded with glorious views of the
Downs crowned by Chanctonbury Ring.
Steyning (49-1/4 m.).
Bramber (50-1/4 m.).
New Shoreham (54-1/4 m.).
[Illustration: STEYNING CHURCH.]
THE WORTHING ROAD
As above to the Burrell Arms. The route runs south and then south-west
to Dial Post (43-1/4 m.), and so with striking views ahead through
Ashington (46-1/4 m.) to Washington (48-1/4 m.).
Findon (51 m.).
Broadwater (54-1/4 m.).
Worthing (55-1/2 m.).
THE ARUNDEL--CHICHESTER ROAD
This route leaves the Horsham road nearly two miles south of the
village of Kingsfold.
Warnham (33-1/4 m.). The district is the scene of Shelley's childhood
and youth. The poet was born at Field Place, about 1-1/2 miles south on
the right of the road.
Broadbridge Heath (35-1/4 m.).
Five Oaks (39 m.). We now join the Roman "Stane Street" from London
Bridge to Chichester.
Billingshurst (40-3/4 m.). Norman and Perpendicular church. Note fine
oak panelled ceiling.
[Across the Adur valley, 2-1/2 miles west is the interesting
church at Wisborough Green. The situation is delightful and the
antiquarian interest more than ordinary. Kemble identifies the
mound on which the church is built as being the site of a temple
dedicated to Woden (Wisc or "Wish"). Restoration brought to light
early Norman (perhaps Saxon) remains in this late Norman church.
The chancel is Early English. Notice the tower walls inside.
There are some ancient frescoes, a stoup, and other interesting
details.]
Adversane (42-3/4 m.).
Pulborough (46 m.).
Bury (50-3/4 m.).
Arundel (55-1/4 m.).
_To Chichester_ at 1-3/4 m. past Bury turn S.W.
Balls Hut Inn (56-1/2 m.).
Chichester (62 m.).
THE CHICHESTER ROAD VIA GUILDFORD AND MIDHURST
This route follows the Portsmouth Road from Westminster through
Wandsworth and over Putney Heath to Kingston (12 m.). Here we bear left
past the King's stone and then by way of the river bank through Thames
Ditton to Esher (16 m.), then by the famous "Ripley Road" over Fairmile
Common and through Street Cobham (19-1/2 m.).
Ripley (23-3/4 m.).
Guildford (29-3/4 m.). A prosperous and good-looking old town in danger
of becoming smug and suburban; the steep and picturesque High Street,
however, keeps its old time amenities. The ruins of the castle keep may
be seen south of the High Street. Abbott's Hospital (1619), the
Guildhall with projecting clock (1683); St. Mary's church, Norman and
Early English. Note paintings in north chapel. St. Nicholas' Church has
been mostly rebuilt. Our road turns left just beyond the Wey bridge and
passes under the ruins of St. Catherine's Chapel on the left. At
Shalford (30-3/4 m.), bear right to Godalming (34-1/4 m.) in the centre
of a lovely country. Here is a large cruciform church, Norman and Early
English, with interesting brasses and pulpit.
[Illustration: NORTH MILL, MIDHURST.]
Milford (35 m.). A long rise follows to Brookstreet (39-1/4 m.) and a
dangerous drop just beyond. Haslemere (43 m.). Although the scenery is
very beautiful on all sides of this once remote hamlet, the late
nineteenth century saw a colonization of the slopes of Hindhead, with
the attendant outbreak of red brick, which has almost completely spoilt
the neighbourhood. Branch excursions may be made towards the Hampshire
border and to Chiddingfold country. We cross the Sussex boundary one
mile south of the town and are immediately in the lonely and very
lovely Blackdown country. A climb follows to Kingsley Marsh and a steep
descent to Fernhurst (46-1/4 m.).
[Blackdown, the highest point in Sussex (918 feet) can be easily
reached from here, the distance is about two miles in each
direction with woodland most of the way. The view from the summit
is magnificent in every direction. Aldworth, where Tennyson died,
is on a spur of the hill slightly east of north.]
Henley (48-1/2 m.). A picturesque hamlet below the road commanding
magnificent views of Blackdown. A steep descent, then a road through
lovely woodlands brings us to Midhurst (51 m.).
Cocking (54 m.). Steep hills.
West Dean (57-1/2 m.).
Chichester (63 m.).
RAILWAY ROUTES
LONDON TO EASTBOURNE BY OXTED AND HEATHFIELD
Only slow trains, with possible change of carriage, by this route; the
Eastbourne expresses run by Three Bridges and Lewes. After Croydon the
long ascent between the northern slopes of the Surrey Downs extends to
Woldingham Tunnel. Wide views and retrospect of the Downs. Oxted (20
m.) (church and village right).
Edenbridge (25 m.).
Hever.
Cowden. The line crosses the Kent water and enters Sussex. Ashurst
(Infant Medway right). Eridge (35-1/2 m.) (a good centre from which to
explore north-east Sussex). Rotherfield. Mayfield (scenery reminiscent
of Devon). Hailsham (49-3/4 m.) for Hurstmonceux. Polegate. Eastbourne
(57 m.).
LONDON TO SEAFORD BY EAST GRINSTEAD AND LEWES
(To Oxted above.) Lingfield (picturesque village and well-known racing
headquarters.) West Hoathly (34 m.). (Ashdown Forest left). Horsted
Keynes. Newick. Lewes (50-1/4 m.). Newhaven (56-1/2 m.). Seaford (59
m.).
LONDON TO BRIGHTON BY REDHILL AND THREE BRIDGES
This is the line of the fast expresses, and in the summer one of the
busiest 50 miles of railway in the kingdom. Croydon. Purley. Merstham.
Redhill (20-1/2 m.). Express Trains pass to the left of this station
(fine views). Horley. Gatwick (race-course, right). A long climb over
the Forest Ridge followed by a drop to the Ouse viaduct (St. Saviour's
College, Ardingley, left). Hayward's Heath (37-3/4 m.) (a suburban
growth). Wivelsfield. Burgess Hill (Ditchling Beacon, left front).
Hassocks (43-1/2 m.) (Clayton Tunnel). Preston Park. Brighton (50-1/2
m.).
LONDON TO SHOREHAM AND WORTHING
Sutton (15 m.) (an outlier of villadom). Ewell. Epsom (18-1/2 m.).
Ashtead. Leatherhead (22-3/4 m.). The scenery rapidly improves and
before reaching Box Hill Station attains much beauty. Dorking (26-3/4
m.). Holmwood (31-3/4 m.) (Leith Hill, right, conspicuous by its
tower). Capel. Horsham (40-1/4 m.). Christ's Hospital (left).
Southwater. West Grinstead (Chanctonbury Ring, right). Henfield (52-3/4
m.). The Adur valley is followed to Steyning and Bramber. New Shoreham
(60-1/4 m.). Worthing (64-3/4 m.).
[Illustration: KNOCK HUNDRED ROW, MIDHURST.]
LONDON TO ARUNDEL AND CHICHESTER
(To Horsham above.) Billingshurst (46 m.). Pulborough (junction for an
alternative route to Chichester via Midhurst). Views (left) of the long
escarpment of the Downs. Villages on the Arun (right). Amberley Castle
(left) and (exceedingly fine) Arundel Castle (right). Arundel (59-1/4
m.). Ford. Barnham. Chichester (70-1/2 m.).
Index
Adeliza, Queen
Adur
Ainsworth, Harrison
Albourne Green
Albrin, de
Alciston
Aldrington
Aldworth
Alfred the Great
Alfriston
Amberley
Anderida
Andredes Weald
Angmering
Angmering Park
Anne of Cleves
Anne of Cleves' House
Appledram
Apsleys
Ardingley
Argos Hill
Arun, The
Arundel
Arundel Church
Arundel Park
Arundel Bishop
Ashdown Forest
Atherington
Babington Conspirators
Bailiff's Court House
Balsdean
Barlavington Down
Barrymore
Bartelotts, The
Barton Down
Beachy Head
Beacon, The
Beacon Hill
Beckett, Thomas a
Beddingham
Beggar's Bush
Berwick
Bexley Hill
Bignor
Birdham
Birds, Booth Museum of
Billingshurst
Birling Gap
Bishopstone
Blackboys
Black Cap
Blackdown
Black Wm.
Blake
Bognor
Bolingbroke
Bolney Common
Borough Hill
Bosham
Botolphs
Bow Hill
Boxgrove
Box Hill
Bracklesham Bay
Bradford, John
Bramber
Brambletye
Braose, de
Brightling
Brighton
Broadbridge Heath
Broadwater
Brotherhood Hall
Browne, Sir Anthony
Browning, Robert
Buncton Chapel
Burrell Arms
Burrel, Sir Wm.
Burwash
Butcher's Cross
Butser Hill
Buxted
Byworth
Cade, Jack
Cade Street
Campions, The
Capel
Cariloce, John de
Carylls, The
Castle Goring
Catt, William
Chailey
Chanctonbury Ring
Charles II
Charles III of Spain
Charlotte, Princess
Charlton
Charlton Forest
Cheyney, Sir Thomas
Chichester
Chichester Cathedral
Chidham
Chilgrove
Chiltern Hills
Church Norton
Chyngton
Cissa
Cissbury Hill
Clapham
Clark, Dr.
Cliffe
Cliffe Hill
Clymping
Cobden, Richard
Cocking
Cogidubnus
Cold Waltham
Compton
Coombe
Cornwall, Earl of
Cowdray Park
Cowdray Ruins
Cowfold
Cowper
Cowper-Coles
Crawley
Cromwell, Thomas
Cross in Hand
Crowborough
Croydon
Cuckfield
Cuckmere Haven
Cuckmere Valley
Dane Hill
Danny
De la Warr, Lord
Devil's Dyke
Dickens, Charles
Dicker, The
Dicul
Ditchling
Ditchling Beacon
Donnington
Dorking
Duncton Beacon
Dunford House
Durrington Chapel
Earnley
Eartham
Easebourne
East Blatchington
Eastbourne
East Dean, (East Sussex)
East Dean, (West Sussex)
Eastergate
East Grinstead
East Hoathly
East Lavington
East Wittering
Edburton
Edenbridge
Edward I
Edward III
Edward VI
Egdean
Egerton, J. Cocker
Egremont, Lord
Elizabeth, Queen
Ella
Ellman, John
Elsted
Emsworth
Epsom
Eridge
Ethelwalch, King
Evelyn, John
Falmer
Falsely, Sir John
Farm Hill
Fellbridge
Felpham
Fernhurst
Field Place
Fiennes, Roger de
Findon
Firle Beacon
Fishbourne
Fittleworth
Fitz-Alans
Fitzherbert, Mrs.
Five Oaks
Flaxman
Fletching
Ford
Forest Ridge
Forest Row
Framfield
Friston
Fulking
Geology of the Downs
George IV
Glynde
Godalming
Godstone
Godwin, Earl
Goldstone, The
Goodwood
Goring
Goring, Charles
Goring Woods
Graffham
Greatham
Grey, Lady Jane
Grey, Lord
Guildford
Gundrada
Hadlow Down
Haia, Robert de
Hailsham
Halland
Halnaker
Hampden Park
Handcross Hill
Hardham Priory
Hares, The
Harold
Hartfield
Harting
Haslemere
Hassocks
Hayward's Heath
Hayley
Heathfield
Heene
Henley
Henry III
Henry VIII
Hessel, Phoebe
Heyshott
High Cross
Highdown Hill
High Wood
Hiornes Tower
Horsebridge
Horsham
Hotham
Holyoake
Houghton
Hove
Hunston
Huntingdon, William
Hurdis, James
Hurstmonceux
Hurtspierpoint
Huskisson, William
Iden, Alexander
Iford
Isfield
Jackson, Dean
Jefferies, Richard
Jevington
John, King
John of Gaunt
Johnson, Doctor
Julius Caesar
Kemp Town
Keymer
Kingley Vale
Kingsfold
Kingston
Kingston (Surrey)
Knut
Lady Holt Park
Lamb, Charles
Lamb Inn, Eastbourne
Lancing College
Leatherhead
Leicester, Earl of
Leith Hill
Leominster
Lewes
Lewes, Battle of
Linch Down
Lingfield
Litlington
Littlehampton
Littleton Down
Long Man of Wilmington
Lordington House
Louis Phillippe
Lullington
Lyminster
Magnus Memorial
Maison Dieu
Manhood End
Mardens, The
Maresfield
Martyrs Memorial
Mascall, Leonard
Matilda, Queen
Maud, Empress
Mayfield
Medway, River
Meeching Place
Mickleham
Mickleham Priory
Midhurst
Mid Lavant
Millburgh House
Monceaux, Waleran de
Montague, Lord
Montiort, Simon de
Montgomery, Roger of
Mount Caburn
Mount Harry
Mowbray, Thos.
Naylor, Geo.
Neale, Father
Newhaven
Newick Farm
Newmarket Hill
New Place, Angmering
New Place, Pulborough
Newtimber Hill
Norfolk, Duke of
North Stoke
North Mundham
Offham
Old Mailing
Old Place
Ouse
Ovingdean
Owen, Sir David
Oxen
Oxted
Pagham
Palmer, Sir Edward
Palmer, Sir Thomas
Parham
Parham Park
Parsons Darbys Hole
Patching
Payne, Tom
Pease Pottage
Pelham, Sir Nicholas
Pell, John
Petworth
Petworth House
Pevensey Castle
Pevensey Church
Piddinghoe
Plumpton
Pole, Cardinal
Polegate
Poling
Pope
Portobello
Portslade
Portus Adurni
Poynings
Preston
Preston, East and West
Puck Church Parlour
Pudens Stone
Pulborough
Pyecombe
Rackham Hill
Racton
Renan
Richard I
Richard II
Richard King of the Romans
Richmond, Duke of
Ringmer
Ripley Road
Roches Hill
Rodmell
Roedean College
Roman Ditch
Roman Villa, Bignor
Romans, King of
Romney
Rother, River
Rotherfield
Rottingdean
Rumboldswyke
Russel, Doctor
Rustington
Sackville College
Salisbury, Countess of
Salvington
Saxon Down
Seaford
Seaford Head
Selden, John
Selham
Selmeston
Selsey
Seven Sisters
Sheep
Sheffield Green
Shelley
Shelleys, The
Sherbourne, Bishop
Shirley, Sir Hugh
Shoreham
Shoreham Old
Sidney, Sir Philip
Sidlesham
Singleton
Slaugham
Slindon
Smuggling
Somerset Hospital, Petworth
Sompting
South Bersted
Southease
Southey, Robert
South Lancing
South Mailing
Southover House
South Stoke
Southwick
Spencer, Herbert
St. Andrew's, Chichester
St. Andrew's, Hove
St. Andrew's Monastery
St. Anne's, Lewes
St. Cuthman
St. Dunstan
St. John's, Lewes
St. John's, sub castro
St. Leonard's Forest
St. Mary's Hospital, Chichester
St. Michael's, Lewes
St. Nicholas, Brighton
St. Olaves, Chichester
St. Pancras Priory
St. Peter's, Brighton
St. Philip Neri, Arundel
St. Richard of Chichester
St. Thomas at Cliffe
St. Wilfrid
Stanmer Park
Stane Street
Star Inn, Alfriston
Star Inn, Lewes
Stephen
Steyning
Stopham Bridge
Stopham House
Storrington
Street
Sullington
Surrey Downs
Sussex Pad
Swanborough
Swanbourne Lake
Swinburne
Tangmere
Tattersell, Capt.
Telscombe
Thackeray
Tilburstow Hill
Tilgate Forest
Tillington
Torberry Hill
Treyford
Trueleigh Hill
Uckfield
Up Park
Upper Beeding
Up Waltham
Walberton
Waller, General
Walton, Isaac
Wannock Glen
Warenne, de
Warlewaste, Bishop
Warnham
Warre, de la
Wartling
Washington
West Dean, East Sussex
West Dean, West Sussex
Weald, The
Welldown Farm
Wellington, Duke of
Westbourne
West Dean, East Sussex
West Ferring
West Firle
West Grinstead
Westham
Westhampnett
West Hoathly
Westerham
West Itchenor
West Lavington
Westmeston
West, Sir Thomas
West Tarring
West Thorney
West Wittering
Wheatears
White, Gilbert
Wilberforce, Samuel
Wilberforce, William
William I
Willingdon
Wilmington
Wilmot, Lord
Windmills
Wisborough Green
Wiston
Withyam
Wlencing
Wolfe
Wolstonbury Hill
Woodard, Nicholas
Worth
Worth Forest
Worthing
Wych Cross
Yapton
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