The British Association's visit to Montreal, 1884: Letters
by
Clara Rayleigh
Part 2 out of 2
_Later_.--Since writing the foregoing, John and E--- and Hedley
went off on the cow-catcher of an engine for two or three miles
excursion! Dick did not "paddle his own canoe," but the station master
did for him on the lake here, and he _nearly_ succeeded in catching
a large trout! He and I wandered afterwards on the Rocky Hill, and
picked enough blueberries for dinner, and I refreshed my eyes with some
lovely-berried red-leaved little shrubs. Since luncheon a telegram came,
telling us we might go over the bridge, and so off we went, and on
arriving walked all about, some sketching the fallen engine, &c. We set
off with Mr. Egan the manager, in his car in front of us, _en
route_ for Eat Portage, where I am finishing this journal up to this
date, Wednesday, September 17th. It is lovely weather now, and this
place is very pretty, and looks quite civilized after our wilderness
kind of scenery. Mr. Egan is now going on to Winnipeg, and will post
this for me. After our return from the Rockies to Winnipeg, we shall go
to Chicago, Washington and Philadelphia, where write.
Letter No. 6.
_September 21st_, 1884.--I am beginning this in our car _en
route_ to the Rockies, in fact with their snow-covered summits well
in sight. I posted a letter to you, No. 5, at Winnipeg, and also a
newspaper for Mary. From Winnipeg the Canadian Pacific Railway is much
more comfortable, for on the boundless flat of the prairies there is no
need for many tressel bridges or crumbling embankments, and we went
along without fear, excepting that in the neighbourhood of settled
parts, we had to look out for cows. Once we stopped very suddenly (their
brakes are so good in America), having near gone over one in the dark.
They use sometimes a curious kind of sound from the engine, not unlike
the _moo_ of a cow in distress, and I saw it effectually drive some
off the line. The maids met us at Winnipeg Station, and seemed anxious
to go to the Rockies, so we settled they might, and they rushed back for
their things, but they returned only in time to see our train off! On
the whole we thought it was as well they had not come, for maids don't
generally like this kind of life, and we did not need them. We changed
cooks at Winnipeg against my wish, but the others were not satisfied
with our first one, and we have certainly not changed for the better; he
is a coloured man called David, and has been ill, or pretends to be,
since yesterday, and another coloured man whom, we call Jonathan, comes
in to help him.
_Saturday_.--We arrived at Moose Jaw after a very rocking journey,
so bad that I could not sleep, and sat in a chair part of the night; at
last, however, the cold and sleepiness overcame all fear, and I slept in
my bed soundly. We saw lots of Indians in red and white blankets, ugly
and uninteresting creatures. We made acquaintance with the Roman
Catholic Archbishop, who has been travelling in the car next to ours. He
is a French Canadian, but talked English well. He is very pleasant. He
introduced me to two priests, one of whom had been working among the
Indians thirty years. Afterwards he had a talk with John, and remarked
upon my youthfulness to be his mother. Of course, I am always being
taken for his wife, and they seem very much puzzled about it altogether.
_Saturday night, the 20th_.--We reached Calgary after a quieter
night--quite an important city. A good many wooden houses, two or three
churches (I think the congregations must be very small in each), and on
Sunday morning all the inhabitants were out in their best, the men
loafing and smoking about, and quite smart-looking young ladies showing
their finery with great enjoyment, as they do at home. A mounted police
officer drove a pair of good horses to meet some of his men, and there
are cavalry barracks here for them. The train twice a week from Winnipeg
is their only communication with the outer world, so when it arrives
everyone, even from long distances, crowds the platform. We always take
a walk at these resting places, but it is nervous work to go far, as the
train starts without any notice, and they never keep to the time named.
_Wednesday, September 25th_.--After leaving Calgary, which I
forgot to say is near a coal mine (Mr. de Winton, son of Sir Francis,
has a ranch near), and is likely to be an important place some day, we
went to Laggan, which is well into the mountains, and there we saw
Professor George Ramsay, brother of Sir James, and he told us to get
hold of the contractor, Mr. Ross, who would help us about going further
on. The railway people, &c., all said to our great disgust that ladies
would not be allowed to go down the steep incline to British Columbia;
upon this we found out Mr. Boss, and he kindly consented to take us down
the Pacific slope in his own car. At first the boys said I had better
remain behind in our own car, but I felt that if there was a risk I
would rather encounter it with them, and I wanted to see more of the
country, so we prepared to start on Monday, but it poured, and Mr. Ross
would not go till Tuesday. We took a small bag with night-gown, brush
and comb, &c., and left the rest of our goods in charge of the odious,
but I think honest, David, and started yesterday morning in Mr. Ross's
car, in some respects a more convenient one than ours, for it has a
writing table and a stove in the sitting room after an early breakfast
at half-past seven. It was a glorious sunny day. We had two engines
reversed, one before and one behind, and no end of brakes with safety
'switches,' every now and then to be turned on and to send us up hill if
the engines ran away with us, and we crept down very slowly. It was very
exciting, and the scenery magnificent, vistas of snowy mountains opening
continually as we turned the corners, covered with brilliant yellow and
red and purple foliage; and when we came to the foot of Mount Stephen
(called after Mr. George Stephen, of Montreal), Mr. Ross said, "we ought
to call one mountain Rayleigh." I exclaimed, "Oh, yes! There is a
beautiful snow one which has been in sight all the way coming down, let
that be Raleigh." And so it was agreed, and E--- and I sketched
it.--Afterward Mr. Ross, said, "Rayleigh has quite a family after him,"
a curious succession of gradually decreasing tops, and we agreed that
they should be _his five brothers_. At one place we went down to a
bridge, very high over a river, and I thought, "it would be unpleasant
if the engine runs away here," but curiously enough I was not at all
nervous, for I felt so much care was taken, and it was a glorious day,
and the scenery lifted one's soul above the small things of life
_here_, and made one think of Him who created all these wonders,
and yet became our human friend and sympathizer, and now lives to give
us bye and bye even "greater things than these!" At last we got to the
_Flats_ all safe, and then John and Dick walked to the end of the
"construction," about five miles. If one was prepared to ride and rough
it exceedingly, one could reach the Pacific in ten days, but ladies
could not undergo the hardships, and we would not be left alone. Mr.
Ross informed us that we must return soon to Kicking Horse Lake and
Laggan, as there would be no train later. However, we said that John was
extremely anxious to see the working of the line at the end, and it
would be a great pity for him not to have the time, and "_could_ we
stay the night?" He replied, "certainly." Hedley and E--- walked on at a
great pace after the other two, beyond my powers, and I sauntered on
quietly alone, only meeting a few men, belonging to the railway in most
cases and working on the line, which is the only _road_ which one
can walk on comfortably here, and I got three miles, but then a horrid
bridge stopped me, as I hate walking on planks far apart over a height
without a helping hand. I have been all along struck with the far
superior accent and good English of the working men in America (Canada
especially); they have often very good features, too, and wear a
well-shaped moustache, and meet one with a smile. They treat one as
equals, but they are not at all rude, and are always willing to help. I
spoke to some in my solitary walk, and only that they were hard at work
hammering in nails, &c., I should have liked to "tell them a story."
They all returned from end of "construction" on a truck train, Dick and
E--- on an open car, and Hedley and John in the cab of the engine. We
then dined; such a fat coloured man Mr. Ross has in his car! He could
hardly squeeze through the narrow passages, but he managed to give us
something to eat. Mr. Ross received a telegram later to say Mr. Angus,
our host at Montreal, Mr. Donald Smith, both directors of the Canadian
Pacific Railway, Mr. Cyrus Field, &c., &c., were at Calgarry, and wanted
to _come on_, so all is arranged for them, and they are expected
soon, and we hope to return with them this afternoon to Laggan, to our
own car. Last evening E--- suddenly said, "I wish we could sleep in a
tent?" Mr. Ross answered, "I can easily manage it for you," and
accordingly two men of business (I think contractors for food, &c.),
were turned out of their tent, and came to our car, and John and E---
slept in their small tent near the river. I don't think they will want
to do it _again_, and I was better off in a nice room all to
myself, where I could dress comfortably, but had not many appliances for
that end. We all met at eight o'clock breakfast, and our black man (who
looked more than ever like a large bolster, well filled and tied at the
top for his head), cooked us an eatable beef-steak, and after this John
and Mr. Ross's brother "_Jack_" rode off to penetrate as far as
they could beyond "construction." I am a little nervous about his ride,
for the road is a mere track, and very rough, however, wagons and mules
_do_ travel on it. E--- has made many pretty sketches; mine are
scanty and perfectly horrid. I don't improve at all. The sun is trying
to come out. We are on a siding, close to numbers of tents and mules and
wagons, a sort of depot for provisions, clothes, &c. I have never seen a
tipsy man or woman since I landed at Quebec! and in many parts of Canada
alcohol cannot be bought, and the penalty is _always_ severe for
selling or giving it to an Indian. Further on I passed yesterday quite a
"city" of tents; over one was printed "Hotel Fletcher," another,
"Restaurant, meals at all hours," "Denver Hotel," "Laundry," "Saloon,"
&c. These are _speculations_, and are not connected with railway
officials. Some of the men (one was taking a photograph of "the city,")
have the American _twang_. Mr. Rosa is going off directly the
directors arrive, far into the interior, on an exploring tour into the
Selkirk range, &c. The line is "graded" about fifty miles further on,
and the bridges and tunnels are making. They are working the other end
from Port Moodie on the Pacific, and will meet by the spring of next
year. What a pity the British Association's visit to Canada was not in
1885 instead of 1884? Some day are going to carry the line higher up, so
as to avoid the steep incline down which we travelled so cautiously, but
they are very anxious to get the line done _somehow_, and it is
really wonderful at what a pace they go.
_Calgarry, September 27th_.--On Wednesday, 24th, after John had
gone off riding, Dick and I waited about for the directors' car, which
we expected that morning, but alas! though it arrived at eleven, they
only stopped at the telegraph office a moment, took no notice of us, and
went on to the end of "construction," returning in about an hour, (John
got back much later, and we wondered why Mr. Ross advised him to go, as
it obliged him to miss this car); they again only made a pause, during
which Dick spoke to Mr. Angus, and E--- also had a few words with Mr. D.
Smith, but she was too modest in urging our claims to be helped on up
the incline and they went and left us in the lurch. I heard afterwards
that the American part of the company were in a great hurry to get on,
Mr. Angus Field having telegrams following him all along the line, but
we should not have detained them, and they would only have had to drop
us at Laggan, where our own car was waiting. So we had to wait another
night, and all went to bed very grumpy!
_Thursday, 25th_.--After breakfast we walked some way, and then
Hedley and I remained at the telegraph station (this is the only source
of information in these parts), and the others went on. An hour or two
later the freight train began to think of starting up the incline, and
Hedley and I got into the cab of the engine. We soon came up with E---,
who joined us there. Some two or three miles further on John and Dick
appeared, wildly gesticulating as they stood on the middle of the line
to try and stop us, but the engineer declared we were now on too steep
an incline, and on we went, much to our dismay, for this entailed thirty
or forty miles walk for rheumatic John and not over-strong Dick. We
reached the top all right, and found ourselves at "Kicking Horse Lake,"
and to our great relief up walked John and Dick. It seems they made a
rush at the train as it passed, and John jumped on an open car all
right--but Dick caught his foot in a sleeper and fell down, but had the
presence of mind to pick himself up very quickly, and caught the last
engine (we had one at each end) and jumped on the cow catcher! I
shuddered to think what _might_ have happened to Dick when he fell,
but he only got a bruise on his knee and a severe injury to his
trousers! We reached Laggan about half-past one, and found our cook
still much of an invalid, with a real negro to assist him! I think the
negroes are much more manly and altogether pleasanter than the
half-breeds, who are mean, discontented, and impertinent when they dare.
This negro was a capital servant, and had lived with his present master
(to whom he was returning after the said master's absence in Europe)
twelve years. We left Laggan at half-past nine, Friday 26th, and had
glorious scenery, most of which we had previously passed in the dark.
Rocky mountains with their snowy tops all about us, and the lovely
yellow and red and purple colouring on their sides. E--- sketched
vigorously and I smudged! We reached Calgarry about five, and found the
Indians in great force, for they had received their treaty money quite
lately, and were arrayed in gorgeous blankets of red and white and blue,
and any number of gold and coloured beads! They are quiet enough, and
don't look at all as if they would venture to scalp us, or make an
oration like "Chincanchooke" with dignified eloquence; the expression of
the elder ones is unpleasant, and you can see at once the results of
even a _little_ education by the brighter and happier countenances
of the boys and girls. I took a lonely walk on the prairie, over which a
strong cold wind was blowing. I saw several people riding in the
distance. We left Calgarry on 27th, Saturday, by a train partly freight,
and consequently it rocked and jumped, and crashed and crunched, and we
could scarcely play whist, or hear each other speak, and when we went to
bed sleep was banished, at least from _my_ eyes. I watched the
stars instead, and the brilliant morning star about three or four
o'clock shining like a small moon, and then the sun rise over the
prairie. We arrived at Winnipeg about six o'clock, on _Monday,
29th_; our _nasty_ cook had no dinner provided for us, and
though we had authority for remaining that night in the car to sleep,
conflicting orders produced all kinds of unpleasantness, and we were
shunted about and taken two or three miles off from the depot where
alone we could get anything to eat. After making a great fuss we were
taken back and had a good dinner at the restaurant, which we enjoyed
after our monotonous fare in the car. Our maids, who had been a
fortnight at the Hotel doing nothing but spending our money, met us and
brought letters, &c. Dick heard from Augusta for the first time--her
letters had not reached him.
LORD RAYLEIGH, THE PRESIDENT OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION, AND PARTY
RETURN FROM THE ROCKIES.
Lord Rayleigh, the president of the British Association for the
advancement of Science, Lady Rayleigh, Clara Lady Rayleigh, Hon. Hedley
Strutt and Hon. Richard Strutt returned yesterday afternoon from the
Rookies in a private car attached to the regular train.
A TIMES reporter boarded the car about nine o'clock last night, and had
a pleasant chat with Lord Rayleigh and the members of the party. They
went to within a few miles of the Columbia River, saw the rails being
laid on the Canadian Pacific Railway and were very much pleased with the
wonderful rapidity the work was being done. Lord Rayleigh said he
thought the Rockies were one of the wonders of the world--next to the
Canadian Pacific, chimed in Mr. Strutt and Clara Lady Rayleigh. The
latter said the party were struck with the brightness, intelligence and
kindness of the men along the Canadian Pacific Railway line. The
kindness they had shown to them would never be forgotten. The party
could scarcely believe that the towns along the railway had grown up to
their present size within the past two or three years, as they did not
think it possible in a new country like this. They were loud in their
praises of the country, and predicted that thousands of emigrants would
come from England to Manitoba as a result of the Association's visit
here. The party put up at the Potter House to-day, and will leave for
the east to-night--_Winnipeg Daily Times, September 30th._
Letter No. 7
_Washington, Sunday, 5th_
I was obliged to leave off yesterday, and now proceed to take up the
tale begun in the train to Chicago. I was telling you about our arrival
at Winnipeg, &c. We returned to our car after dinner and found
ourselves, during our first sleep, shunted off to a repairing shed, and
presently I heard what seemed a shower of stones thrown all over the
car. I could look out of a window sitting up in my bed, and on doing so,
I saw two men violently throwing water over it from a hose, and some of
it came into my bed, upon which I showed my lovely countenance with
dishevelled hair and indignant expression, and called out: "Are you
going to drown me in my bed?" and then I heard a man say--"La! there is
a young lady at the window! don't disturb her!" however, just at dawn
they were at it again, and at six o'clock began to move us into the
shed. I jumped up and expostulated in my dressing gown on the platform
(all the rest were in their beds) and insisted upon their asking for
orders from headquarters; just then, fortunately, an early bird in the
shape of a representative of the _Press_ appeared, and I got John
to talk to him, and he went off to the authorities, and we were shunted
to the depot again, and so got our breakfast by ten o'clock; the
reporters always think I am John's wife (E--- is generally out of the
way), and I believe the last idea is, that John and I have a grown up
family, of which E--- is one! It is rather fun to be _interviewed_,
and John is now less shy about it, and consents to be pumped (in a
_measure_). After breakfast we all drove in a horse-car up the main
street, and were twice off the rails and sunk into a mud hole, and the
boys had to help in lifting the omnibus out of it. They are slowly
paving the streets, but there _never_ was such a muddy lane calling
itself a street anywhere before, I am sure; there are nice shops,
however, and respectably dressed people walking or driving. We lunched
and _cleaned_ ourselves at _Potter House_, where the maids had
been living during our absence in the Rockies, and it seems Mrs. Smith,
the landlady, came from Lady Ward's, and knew the Claughtons, and lived,
for years with the Miss Bakers at Boss, (these unexpected encounters
make one realize how narrow the world is). The country is ugly about
Winnipeg, and so after paying a visit to the Archdeacon, whom we met in
going there some fortnight ago, and seeing his nice house and wife, we
dined at the depot and left for _Chicago_, our coloured cook was
walking and dawdling about apparently quite well, now that he had got
rid of us. We had sleeping berths in the train--an unknown man slept in
the one over mine, and I had to dress and undress behind the curtains of
my own. We breakfasted at Barnsville Wednesday morning, and that evening
stopped in pouring rain at _Milwaukie_; it is a finely situated
town, but the station had been lately burnt down, and we were very cold
and uncomfortable for two hours. Poking about to amuse themselves, the
boys saw a large long deal box, directed Mrs. J. Stacey, and on a card
attached, "This is to certify Mr. J. Stacey did not die of any
infectious complaint." So he was waiting there to be sent on to her by
next train, and we hope she got him safely.
_Thursday, Two o'clock p.m._, we reached Chicago. Minnieappolis,
which we passed through, is likely to be a fine city. We went to the
Grand Pacific Hotel and were separated by long corridors and staircases,
and spent our time chiefly in trying to find one another amidst its vast
solitudes. Of course one never sees a chambermaid, or any one, and the
quantity of little dishes and fine sounding names which one is served
with at meals does not make up for the other discomforts.
_Friday, 3rd._--John had a letter to the pork-killing man, Mr.
Armour, and he kindly sent two carriages for us, with an assistant, who
was to lionize us about. We drove first to the Bank and got some money,
and then through the best parts of the town, along the Michigan
Boulevards, through which we had glimpses of the Lake, but everything
here is sacrificed to the almighty _dollar_, and the railway
engines poke themselves in everywhere, down the best streets, and
destroying the prettiest landscapes, and making unearthly noises close
to your bedroom, or puffing their steam out under your nose as you walk.
Chicago looks a more bustling, and a newer and a more railroad-
dominated place than Glasgow, but like it in smoke and business aspect.
As to the Boulevards, the houses are most of them new, and some in
startling styles of architecture. Some in red, which are very good. One
was nearly finished of white marble, quite a palace, with more ground
than usual round it; but alas, for human hopes, the man who owns it and
_millions_ of dollars, has lately been pronounced _mad_, is in
the care of a wife whom he lately married, and who does not care for
him, and he will die before his marble palace is finished. There are no
_prettinesses_, flowers, &c., about these fine houses, perhaps
accounted for by the forty or fifty degrees below zero which they
sometimes enjoy at Chicago. After six miles driving we got to the
Piggery, &c., and the least said about that the better; it is certainly
wonderful, but disgusting--the most interesting parts were the enormous
yards containing _cattle_, all arranged comfortably, with hay and
water, &c., and the tin-making business for the preserved meats (the tin
all comes from England). Travelling for the last three or four weeks we
have seen little hills of tin boxes perpetually along the line, as the
people in the trains and stations, &c., seem to live almost entirely on
tinned goods. After this we had a hasty luncheon, and I decided to
accompany John and E--- here, and not wait for Dick who wanted to stay
longer. We could not find our maids to tell them, and I had to pack a
great deal myself, meaning to leave Gibson to follow with the rest, but
they turned up at last, and we had a great scrimmage to get off in the
"bus." John thought we might not have time to check our luggage, and so
began to seek for tickets to give the maids, but he could not understand
them so a kind American in the 'bus explained them, and after all we
were in time, thanks again to the said American, who _passed_ E---
and me to the train, assuring the railway people that he had seen our
tickets, and he also got us into the sleeping car. When I was thanking
him warmly, I added, "You must be amused to see such distracted English
travellers?" "Well," he answered, "we are as bad in your country till we
are used to it." After a great deal of shaking and going a great pace
round many curves, which quite prevented us sleeping, we got _here_
(Washington) yesterday at six o'clock. A man met us who was sent by an
astronomer friend of John's, and brought us to this hotel, Wormley's. On
our way in a spic and span omnibus we felt _going down_ on one
side, and found a wheel had come of. We jumped out, and a crowd
collected, and finally we had to transfer our baggage and ourselves into
another omnibus, and got through some handsome wide streets, with trees
each side and good shops, to this hotel. Our first view of Washington
was a lovely one, coming in with the Potomac river in front, and the
fine Capitol, on a hill, backed by a glorious red sunset, which
reflected all in the river; it looked like an Italian scene. This is
said to be a "city of magnificent distances," being planned for future
greatness, and very like Paris in conception. We found acquaintances
here, and John went with, one to the Observatory. This morning we all
went to the American Episcopal Church, St. John's, rather "high," but
nothing really objectionable. This is the centenary of the consecration
of the first American Bishop, Dr. Siebury, Bishop of Connecticut, who,
after having implored _our_ Bishops in London to consecrate him,
went at last to Scotland, and "there in an upper room received Apostolic
orders from the Scotch Bishops, then called non-jurors." We were all
struck with the handsome features of both men and women in church. In
company with a great many others, we remained to Holy Communion, and I
don't think I ever enjoyed it more than among these brethren--strangers,
and separated by the wide Atlantic from our English Church, but joined
to us by "one Lord, one faith," &c. After luncheon John had a chat with
a French scientist, and Mr. Rutherford and his handsome son, and General
and Mrs. Strachy, and Professor Adams, the astronomer; many of these
people are here in conclave about _Greenwich_ time, &c. John and
E--- are now gone driving about with his friend. It is _very hot_,
and poor Hedley is quite knocked down, but we took a little walk.
_Later_.--After dinner a good many adjourned to the drawing-room,
Captain and Mrs. Ray, the Strachys, Rutherfords, &c. We had a scientific
experiment with the shadow of the moon. Mr. Ray told a curious story of
a wasp. He saw it advance slowly to a great _spider_, which the
wasp apparently completely mesmerised, and then the wasp carried him off
to a little house he had made, and deposited the spider next an
_egg_, then another _egg_, and again another spider, till
there was a long row alternately, then the larvae awoke to life, and
_lived_ upon the spiders, who remained fat and well-liking, and
apparently alive up to that point. Captain Ray says he believes Mr.
Scott is right in saying that the American side will never be able to
give us warning of storms which will be of any use, for not more than
one in ten of their storms reach us; our storms come from the North and
Mid-Atlantic. Captain Ray fills the same post here that Mr. Scott does
in London, meteorological and weather prophet. Presently a nigger of
fine appearance, with a companion, played the banjo and sung. It was
really very pretty, and we stood at the porch listening, and numbers of
white-robed figures appeared on the opposite side (the young women so
arrayed walk about a good deal these hot nights), and a little crowd
gathered round us. It is surprising how little music and amusement they
seem to have.
Letter No 8.
_Washington, Wormley's Hotel, Monday, 6th._
The weather has been "exceptionally" hot, they say, for the time of
year, Hedley quite unable to do anything. John went up the Monument,
five hundred feet, and I went with Gibson to see the Capitol. The dome
looks pretty from a distance, but the whole thing strikes me as large,
handsome, uninteresting and vulgar; we inspected the Congress Hall and
Senate Chamber. The view from the terrace was fine. At four o'clock
Hedley and I accompanied Mr. Strachy to Arlington Heights, where there
is a large cemetery for soldiers. It was formerly the country home of
General Robert Lee, the hero of the Confederate War. It was intensely
melancholy to drive through the graves of eleven thousand and odd
soldiers, all killed in the second battle of Bull's Run (I believe), two
thousand of them _unknown_, and buried in one grave, mostly young
volunteers who had _just_ joined. Each white stone told the story
of the bereaved families, and the destruction of so much happiness. The
view of the Potomac and Washington is very fine, and one thought
sorrowfully of the poor Lees who gave up their pretty home and _all
else_, for the sake of Virginia, and in vain!
_Tuesday, 7th_.--John and E--- and I went to Mount Vernon,
Washington's residence and tomb. H--- somehow missed us, which quite
spoilt _my_ day. The air in the steamer was delightful, and the
Potomac is mildly pretty. We were left at Mount Vernon, and I was
disgusted with the shabbiness and untidiness of the tomb of the great
patriot; that even in _his_ case such a want of sentiment and
reverence should be shown does not speak well for his countrymen. I
spoke of this to many people afterwards, and they say it is owing to his
family, who would not allow the tomb to be moved. In the evening we
dined with our Minister, Mr. West, at the Embassy. It is a fine house,
and we enjoyed our evening. There were only Mr. Johnstone and Mr. Helier
attached to the Legation, besides ourselves. Miss West now presides over
her father's house, and is very attractive; brought up in a convent in
Paris, and speaks English with a strong accent. Miss West has given me
some letters of introduction to people at Newport. They showed us some
curious beans, which jumped about in an odd way when held over the light
a little while. It is said there is a worm inside, which is influenced
by the warmth.
_Wednesday_.--We meant to leave to-day, but Dick turned up
unexpectedly from Chicago, and we put off going to Philadelphia that we
might start together. We went over the White House to-day, where the
President lives, and saw the blue room in which he receives every one,
rather ugly I thought it, and the bedroom in which President Garfield
was ill, &c. In the afternoon John and E--- went to Baltimore, as he has
scientific acquaintances there, and I don't know when we shall meet
again.
_Thursday_.--Hedley has just returned from Dick's hotel, and says
he does not go to Philadelphia to-day, so we start alone at two o'clock.
Last night two violent showers of rain cleared the atmosphere, and it is
quite cool and pleasant this morning. I heard from Mr. B--- from
Baltimore, and he says he is going to be married on the 15th, and hopes
we will go to pay them a visit on the 16th; however, as the time does
not suit, and I don't know his intended wife, I have declined.
_Friday, 10th, Hotel Lafayette, Philadelphia._
Last night I had the great pleasure of receiving four letters--one from
you, and one from C--- and Mary, and Margaret. We left Dick behind at
Washington, but he arrived last night; the journey was a pleasant one
and the scenery pretty, especially Chesapeake Bay. I hear mosquitos
swarm at Baltimore and so I am glad we did not go there. This is a very
large hotel and I am on seventh floor, No. 750! Close to me is a fire
escape, which I carefully investigated. We got cheated coming here from
the station, and _so did Dick_, to our great triumph! The country
coming here was more English and well populated than any we have seen.
Going up in the lift who should I find there but Dr. Gladstone, one of
our fellow passengers on the "Parisian;" we all laughed. Since I began
this a very kind note has come by hand from Mr. Childs, of the _Public
Ledger_, saying Mrs. C--- is at New York, but he will try to get her
back on Saturday; he is coming to call at a quarter-past two, and offers
us carriages to drive about.
_Half-past One_.--We have just come back from seeing the Roman
Catholic Cathedral--not much worth seeing excepting a beautiful picture
of our Lord as a Child among the doctors. We also saw the Academy of
Arts, but there was nothing we cared for. I have had a kind note from
Mrs. James Neilson, who hopes to see us at New Brunswick, _en
route_ for New York.
_Sunday, 12th_.--Mr. Childs came, a short, stout man, and very
kind; he sent the carriage at three, and we drove in Fairmount Park, the
largest park in the world, and really very pretty; saw conservatories
and gardens with bright, but only _foliage_, plants--wonderful
perillas, alternantheras, tresine, &c. It was a most lovely evening and
we enjoyed the three hours' airing; it was perfectly clear and still,
with sunshine and fresh balmy air. Yesterday (Saturday) directly after
breakfast we went as by appointment to Mr. Childs' office; he has a
beautifully fitted-up room, filled with all kinds of curiosities,--Tom
Moore's harp, Washington's chair, Louis Napoleon's cup and saucer,
splendid clocks of all kinds; one of them belonged to Lord Howe, which
he had to leave behind him when he was "obliged to run away from the
States in such a hurry!" Mr. Childs' seemed to think I must know all
about this, but I am afraid I had quite forgotten that humiliation. This
reminds me of a story I heard lately of an American lionizing an
Englishman about; they came within sight of Bunker's Hill, and the
American as delicately and modestly as he could announced: "_That_,
sir, is Bunker's Hill," the Englishman put up his glass and looked, and
then said: "And who was Bunker, and what did he do on his hill?" Imagine
the American's indignation at this gross ignorance! To return to Mr.
Childs' room; while there several ladies called, and among them Mrs.
Bloomfield Moore; she talked well and we made friends, and she proposed
to call for us and take us a drive, to which we agreed. After she had
gone Mr. Childs told me she was a poetess and a millionaire, and was
supposed to be engaged to Browning the poet. A man was then told off to
escort us over the building, and a wonderful place it is. All the
printing and editorial work and "job" work so beautifully arranged and
everything in such perfect order. The _Public Ledger_ prints about
80,000 a day, or rather night, and Mr. Childs is the proprietor. Almost
all the American news comes to us from his office from a Mr. Cook, who
telegraphs it to the _Times_. Mr. Cook told me that all the
speeches at the opening of the British Association meeting at
Montreal--Lord Lansdowne's, Sir William Thomson's, &c.,--were
telegraphed to London before they were delivered, John's address had
been left in London before he started. Mr. Cook got the substance of
these speeches beforehand. After this we went to the Electric Exhibition
going on here, and Dick tried an organ; then we had a drive with ----;
she talked all the time and told me all about her husband and his will,
and how astonished everyone was to find what immense confidence in her
it proved; she knows Mrs. Capel Cure and Miss Western, and she has just
bought a good house in London. She is much interested in Mr. Keally (the
inventor of Keally's motor), and has supported him through all the
incredulity and opposition he has met with; she believes he has
discovered a new force, and has just made some experiments before ten or
twelve people, in which without any apparent power of machinery he
produced astonishing results, _not_ electric and not compressed
air, or, if the latter, he has found one a way of producing wonderful
power without the usually necessary accompaniments. This is what _I
hear; he_ says it is a force in ether, which is a medium separating
atoms, but he will not tell his secret till he has taken out his
patents. Mr. Childs sent us some tickets for the opera here, and I gave
Mrs. A. B--- one, and we all went, the music was pretty and singing
good. Mr. Rosengarten, a friend of Mr. Childs, came into the box, and
between one of the acts asked me if I would like to see some typical
American political meetings? I said "Oh, yes;" so he carried me off, and
the boys followed, to a splendid opera house, which was crammed to the
galleries by a very respectable-looking, quiet audience, listening most
attentively to the "Prohibition" candidate, who was shouting and
apparently pleasing them much, but being behind him on the platform
(they wanted me to go close to him but I would not), I could not hear
the point of his jokes. Then we went to the Academy of Music, also a
very large place, where a more rowdy lot were listening very quietly,
however, to General Butler. Certainly no meetings of such size could
take place in England with such entire absence of noise or policemen, of
carriages, or cabs. We went to bed very tired having had so much to
interest us all day. Mr. Childs, by the bye, has sent me a present of
some china and a box full of lovely roses, which I shared with the sons
and Mrs. A. B---. I see I have not mentioned before that I received
yours and Mary's letter of 28th September, which came very soon after my
birthday. This morning we went to a Presbyterian Church by mistake, but
it was very dull and we soon went out and went to another close by,
which turned out to be Ritualistic, but at any rate the music, and
better still, the sermon, was very good,--"What think ye of Christ?" It
was all of Him, so no one could object, not even you! Hedley and I then
rushed off to the Lincoln Institution for Training Indian Girls, where
Mr. Rosengarten was to meet us. It is a very interesting and useful work
(the boys are also under training but we did not see that part of the
Institution) and the girls look so thriving and happy, and the teachers
say they are _above_ the average in intelligence; they sung a chant
and hymn and gave me a photograph to take home. Mr. Rosengarten offered
to take Hedley with him for a drive to see some of his relations, and so
I have been alone since--reading, and writing to you.
Letter No. 9.
_October 14th_.--I sent my last letter to you on Sunday, and on
Monday morning Mr. Childs called and brought me a note from Mrs. Childs
saying she was very unwell and her doctor said she must be quiet, and
would we defer our visit till Wednesday? I declined this at once, and
Mr. Childs seemed very sorry, but when Dick joined us he said we were in
no great hurry to leave Philadelphia and might as well stay, so I could
only agree to remain till Thursday. He gave us seats at the Theatre to
hear "May Blossom" (a pretty _good_ play, which we all enjoyed),
and he asked me if I wanted any books to read? I said "Yes, I should be
very glad of some," thinking he would lend me a few of his own; well, a
large parcel soon arrived with a lovely copy of Longfellow's Poems and
my name in it, and lots of story books, all new. This morning (Tuesday)
our future host at New Brunswick called, a nice-looking, lively man, and
we go to them on Thursday--Mr. James Neilson. Yesterday afternoon we
spent two hours at Mrs. A. B---'s, and met Mr. Keally. He is a curious
person, and looks full of _fire_, and I should say _not_ an
impostor, but I should not be surprised if he was _mad!_ He talked
away tremendously quickly, and used all kinds of new words invented to
suit his discovery, and I got quite exhausted trying to understand him;
all I could really make out was that he professed to have decomposed
_hydrogen_, and evolved a lighter element from it, and that his new
force has something to do with _vibration_; that he multiplies
vibrations almost infinitely, and can distinguish _divisions_ of
_tones_ in an unusual manner. Those who have seen his experiments
lately, declare that _no_ force with which scientists are
acquainted could produce the same effects with the machinery used. "If
it is a trick," he said, "at any rate it is a trick worth knowing--if a
pint of water can send a train from this to New York, which it will do
shortly." He employs several people to make his machinery, but when they
have made it and used it successfully, they declare they don't know
_why_ or _how_ it is done. I am trying to persuade John to
stop here on Friday on his way from Baltimore and see one of his
experiments. I have heard John say that he expected some great discovery
would be made shortly, and in the _chemical_ direction. Mr. Keally
is a mechanist, and says he discovered this force by accident. It is
curiously like the one in Bulwer's novel, which everyone was possessed
of and could destroy anything in a moment. Mrs. A. B--- is going to take
us a drive this afternoon. At present my letters to Newport have only
produced an invitation to dine with Mrs. Belmont on Saturday, which we
are unable to accept. Hedley enjoyed his Sunday outing with Mr.
Rosengarten, and was introduced to heaps of people, and felt quite an
important person. He is always much liked, and _I_ am not
surprised.
_Wednesday, 15th_.--At two o'clock we met Mr. Childs at the
station, and went with him to Bryan Maur by rail, and then his carriage
met us and took us to his farm and stables, &c., and then to his house;
it is all very new and very tidy and pretty. He told his wife to buy any
land she liked four years ago, and build anything she liked on it, and
now he has paid the bills and handed her the deeds, and it is all her
own. That's the way husbands do things in America! The wives and
children have a good time here, and the working classes, too, have many
privileges, or perhaps, I should say, that they _share_ them with
the richer and more educated people; everywhere, in the trains and trams
and restaurants of stations and waiting rooms there is _equality_,
and considering all things one does not suffer much by the mixture
excepting that they "_level down_," and one misses the comforts and
_quiet_ of the English railroads. Some of the working men are
remarkably fine and intelligent looking, and always quiet and well
behaved. I do not observe any very great politeness to women, which I
was led to expect was the prevailing habit in the United States, but I
notice that the fathers are wonderfully gentle and helpful with the
children. Mrs. Childs is a bright little woman, and sings well, which
you would scarcely expect when hearing her voice in speaking. It is a
pity that so many of the women have such unpleasant voices, and the
_men_ have generally nothing harsh in their tones. A captain of one
of the Cunard steamers sat next me, and seeing my distress over a
plateful of very large oysters, whispered, "you need not eat them." We
had carefully abstained from luncheon, as dinner was at four o'clock,
and this was the menu for dinner: soup, _big_ oysters, boiled cod,
then devilled crab (which I ate, and it was very good), then very tough
stewed beef-steak, large _blocks_ of ice-cream, and peaches, and
that was all! So my dinner consisted of crab, and I was obliged to have
something to eat on our return to the hotel. Mr. Childs is very rich,
and gives away immensely. He showed me a valuable collection of
autographs, &c., given him by Mrs. S. C. Hall, whose husband, now an old
man I believe, he partly supports. We left at half-past eight, and this
morning, _Thursday, 16th_, Mr. Childs called early with his
picture, framed, as a present. Sir William and Lady Thomson, and
probably John and E---, are going to the Childs' on Saturday till
Monday, and Mrs. B. M---, who called, is very anxious that they should
see the Keally experiments. I hear John and E--- are going to Boston.
_We_ are starting this afternoon for Woodlawn, New Brunswick, the
Neilsons' place, and to-day I have, an invitation from Mrs. Pruyn of
Albany. We are about to take our berths on board the Cunard steamer
_Oregon_, which starts on 12th November. I had a great pleasure
this morning in receiving from Clara a large photograph of _you_
and Arthur Paley. It is very nice, and I am very glad she arranged so
cleverly for you to be taken! You don't look quite so miserable and
cross, as is your _wont_ in general when being photographed. Clara
and S--- were at a large evening party lately at Euston, where they met
the Princess Frederica of Hanover, whom I have met several times at dear
Katty Mande's, and she inquired about us from Clara.
_Woodlawn, New Brunswick, October 20th_.--We arrived here
Thursday. Mrs. M--- called and kindly took me to the station, and
presented me with some beautiful roses, which I brought here unpacked
and gave to Mr. Neilson. Major R. S--- spoke to me again at the hotel
about the Keally motor, and fervently repeated that after a thorough
inspection of the machinery he is convinced that a new force is at work.
Mr. Neilson and his carriage met us at the station. He is very lively
and full of information, having travelled a great deal, and overflowing
with "_go_." She is very handsome and nice, and nothing can be
kinder than they are. It is a pretty cottage, close to his mother's
house, and with some grounds round them.
_Friday, 17th_.--We took a long drive, Mr. Neilson driving at a
rapid pace, and the river and foliage was pretty, but the scenery here
is not remarkable, and the town of New Brunswick does not look
_rich_, or flourishing. In the evening we went to his mother's, had
tea, oysters and birds, and then a number of people came; Dr. and Mrs.
Cook, Professor of Chemistry, and Mr. and Mrs. and Miss Warren, several
Carpenters, who are cousins of the Neilsons, Admiral and Mrs. Admiral
Boggs, Dr. and Mrs. Hart. He is a Dutch clergyman of the Dutch church
here, and has been at John's laboratory at Cambridge, and talked about
him and his work. I observe the gentlemen stand talking to _each
other_ a good deal as we do in England. Mrs. Neilson _mere_ is a
very nice old lady, with white hair, and something like you. She spoke
about my brother Hedley, and tears came into her eyes as we talked;
everyone here seems to have read his memoirs, and I enclose a scrap out
of the New Brunswick paper, which will show you how he is remembered.
Mrs. T. Neilson seems a capital housekeeper, and the cooking and
everything seems so good and comfortable. Mr. Neilson owns most of the
town, and is delighted when he can _sell_ some of it, and the
neighbours are nearly all his cousins. He says the municipal government
of the town, &c., is at a _dead lock_. Nothing can be done to the
_roads_, (which are disgraceful!) or the streets, which are
dreadful _everywhere_ nearly, that there is perpetual bribery and
corruption, and all owing to universal suffrage, which makes the
respectable people quite helpless! This is the view of all the people I
stayed with or spoke to. On _Saturday, 18th_, we made a long
excursion to Long Branch, going by train to Redbank, a pretty village,
where we got a carriage and drove to Long Branch, a favourite watering
place of this part of the country and New York; miles upon miles of the
sea coast is covered with houses, small and large, in every variety of
style, with no trees and quite flat, with a fine sea beyond the sands.
It looked like a scene on a _stage_! We passed some very pretty
bays and creeks, but though the day was bright, the wind blew a gale,
and we could not sit about. We lunched at the railway station, with our
driver sitting at the next table. It is so funny to find everyone at
your elbow, whatever their position may be, but I must say they behave
very well. We returned by train, and I managed to catch a chill, and
have been in bed most of the morning. The day was so lovely that Mr.
Neilson persuaded me to drive with him in his _buggy_, a very
comfortable carriage like a tea cart, and I enjoyed the sweet _Indian
summer_ and the pretty foliage with peeps of the river. In the
afternoon I went with Mr. Neilson to call on his mother and Mrs.
Carpenter, both fine old ladies, and as I said before, _old_ and
young women are well taken care of here.
_October 22nd_.--Hotel Brunswick, Boston. We left the kind
Neilsons yesterday, and as Dick and I were not well, we took
drawing-room car seats, which, however, were extremely uncomfortable
wicker chairs, which turned round on a pivot with the least movement and
made one feel sick! So I sat on a hard bench usually occupied by
conductors. This is a fine hotel, and John and E--- came to see me last
night after I was in bed; they seem enjoying themselves and are gay,
seeing lots of scientific folk at Baltimore and _here_ at
_Cambridge_. They intend starting home on the 1st. We are arranging
for berths in the "Oregon," on the 12th, Last night I was surprised to
get a letter from Liza, which had been sent to Evelyn, dated October
5th, telling me that No. 90, O--- G--- was let to Mr. Scott Holland till
8th December! I suppose some letter from Liza has been lost, for I have
never heard a word of it before. The road yesterday was very pretty,
crossing two or three rivers with beautiful colored foliage on their
banks, and some fine towns. I enjoy scenery more and more as I get
older, and feel more _one_ with Nature, and Nature's God; the sense
of the _Eternal_ and _Infinite_ deepens in my heart, and the
grandeur of sky and mountain and river _with God over all_ fills me
with calm and peace. I am not at all well just now, and have to
_starve_ nearly. It is difficult at hotels to get the right kind of
food when one is out of sorts.
DISTINGUISHED PEOPLE IN TOWN.
_To the Editor of the "Home News".--_
It may be of some interest to your readers to know that we have at
present in our midst some distinguished people. Not indeed because they
happen to be people of high rank in their own country, but because they
represent names standing preeminent in the fields of science on the one
side of their house, and on the other a name cherished in every
household as the very embodiment of Christian chivalry, that of a
veritable soldier of the cross.
The Dowager Lady Rayleigh (mother of Lord Rayleigh, the President of the
British Association), is at present the guest of Mr. and Mrs. James
Neilson, at their residence, Woodlawn. She is accompanied by her two
sons, the Honorables Richard and Hedley Stratt. The former is married to
a daughter of Lord Bragbrook, a member of the Cornwallis family. The
Dowager Baroness is a sister of Hedley Vicars, the soldier-missionary of
the Crimea, a name as well known and honoured in the households of
America as those of Great Britain.
The party came out to attend the Scientific Convention of Canada, and
have since travelled largely through the great West. They express
themselves enthusiastically as to our progress, material as well as
intellectual.
We take the occasion to congratulate our English cousins upon the
phenomenally fine season which they have selected, and trust that they
may remain long enough to enjoy the loveliness of our American autumn
and Indian summer.--_The Brunswick Daily Home News, Thursday, October
16th, 1884._
LETTER No. 10.
_October 25th, Newport, at "Madame Robertson's."_
Hedley and I and Gibson came here on Thursday, just to see the place, of
which I had heard so much, and to acknowledge the offered civilities of
some of the people there. We left Dick at Boston not very well, and
indeed, _I_ have been quite a wretch lately. Wednesday morning,
E--- brought Professor Pickering, and he asked us to join John and E---
at his Observatory, and at a party given afterwards by Mrs. Pickering,
so at 3.30 we set off all in a tram, and Professor Pickering met us
about a mile from the house, and a carriage took us to the Observatory,
where we saw curious things, and above all, the crescent moon, through a
powerful telescope, which, oddly enough, I had never seen before. Mrs.
Pickering had a large gathering, and I was introduced to quantities of
people, some very nice looking and English in tone and manner. In this
part of America one would scarcely know that you were not living among
the present generation of English transported across the Atlantic quite
recently; the manners of the _coloured_ servants are _very_
objectionable, and the porters of the cars quite odious; they march up
and down, even in the more select Pulman cars, slam the doors, awakening
one out of a much needed doze, and throw themselves down on the chairs
and pick their teeth! "Dressed in a little brief authority, they strut
before High Heaven," and make one wish they had never been
_evolved_ but remained altogether _apes_. The _waiters_
at hotels are often pleasant enough, but the dislike of the white
Americans to domestic service has given a monopoly of this employment to
the coloured people, (shared in many parts by the Irish), and they give
themselves airs accordingly. Dr. Wendel Holmes, of literary celebrity,
was at the Pickerings, and I had a short talk with him, but as every
minute some new introduction came off, I could never have a pleasant
chat with any one. Mrs. Horsford, who was giving a large evening party,
asked us to go there, and the Pickerings wanted me to stay with them
till the time arrived, but I was not equal to this exertion, and we
three returned in trams, which ought to be called _crams_, for they
are invariably in that condition. I was also asked to join John and E---
with a party going to a place called Beverly, but I decided to come
here, as people were expecting us, and we arrived about ten minutes to
three, and I found cards and notes, asking me to lunch and dine, and
drive, and my landlady said the bell had been ringing all the morning,
and the whole place was in excitement about our coming and its frequent
delays! I got a carriage (it was too late to lunch out or drive), and
left some cards and notes of explanation, and as we were leaving one at
Mrs. Belmont's, she drove up in a well appointed drag, so we got out,
and I found her a fair and light little person, very nice, and
wonderfully young looking. She then drove us in her beautiful park
phaton to Mrs. Bruen's, where there was an afternoon party for my
benefit--such a charming old lady! I told her I had a mother of
eighty-one, and she said "Oh I am more than _that_, but no one
knows my age, and I don't think about it, but am ready when the call
comes." I have heard since, she is past ninety! She is small and thin,
full of life and interest in everything, and her brains as active as
ever,--seems to have known every one of interest. I went there again to
tea-dinner last evening, and we talked about everything and everybody
under Heaven nearly! Her clever daughter and very pretty grand-daughter,
Miss Perkins, have read widely, and our subjects of discussion were
endless. Of course at the afternoon party there were numbers of people,
and they told me they were quite delighted at my arrival, for the place
was very dull now, and it was quite an excitement! Last evening a
Professor Shields was at Mrs. Bruen's, and gave me his book on "Science
and Faith." I have had three invitations to dine _to-day_, which,
of course I had to decline. To go on with yesterday's journal, we
lunched with a Mrs. Bell, and met there Miss Perkins and another nice
young lady, and a queer specimen, a Mr. W---, who travels about the
Continent with eight children, and aggravated me by saying he was more
at home in France than in England. We had several made up dishes,
chiefly fish, but little I could eat! Three children came down
afterwards and were made very much of, as usual; then Mrs. Belmont
called for us in her barouche, and took us a delightful drive by the
sea, but it was very cold, and as I had not brought my only warm wrap to
Newport, I borrowed a seal skin jacket from Mrs. Bell; I find I have
only brought _one_ gown that I could have well done without, but I
should be glad of two or three more things.
This place is something like _Ryde_, with numbers of villas, which
in summer weather have beautiful lawns and gardens, and are filled with
all the smart people from New York and Boston, &c.; in the season, they
say it is wonderfully pretty and gay, and the few people remaining are
so sorry I did not see Newport in all its glory, but I can guess what it
would be, and I should dislike the kind of life they lead and the
intense frivolity and absence of any kind of occupation, excepting
dressing and flirtation! I think the _cream_ had been left behind.
This morning Professor Shields took us a drive to the two
_Beaches_, two little bays with bathing sands, and then we drove to
Miss Mason, who lives in a very pretty villa with her sister, and is
very rich, and we all walked together to the _Cliff_, where there
is a fashionable promenade, with rocks and sea on one side and green
turf and the villas with their gardens all open on the other. If any one
has a pretty house or place here it is all exposed to the public gaze,
and even _use_, a great deal! We then drove to Mrs. Bruen's, where
Hedley and I lunched. I am surprised to find how _fresh_ the memory
of my brother Hedley still remains in the minds of people, who I thought
would have been too young to have heard of him at the time of his death,
or too old to remember now what they had heard and read. Miss Mason and
her friend spoke about him with such real feeling, and said they had
been _brought up_ on his "memoirs." Mrs. Bruen and her family, and
Professor Shields and many others speak to me as if I was quite a
_friend_, because of my relationship to Hedley! Isn't this curious
after thirty years? They all asked about _Lucy_, and were so
romantic as to be rather distressed that she had ever married; but I
told them what a good man her husband was, and that she was so active
and useful, and that it would have been a great pity if she had been
_lost_ as a wife and mother, &c. Mrs. Bruen, among other things,
spoke of spiritualism, and said she knew from personal experience there
was much truth in it. A relation and intimate friend was a powerful
medium, and many extraordinary things, such as moving of furniture,
(heavy chairs and tables, &c.) and raps, &c., took place under
circumstances which made imposition impossible, there being frequently
no one present but Mrs. Bruen and her two daughters and this lady
medium. A table at the _end_ of the room would suddenly tilt up and
rap. A large dining room table would tilt up, while all the things
arranged for dinner on it would remain immovable--the lady not touching
it. They all seemed to think that spiritualism had a bad influence, and
Mrs. Bruen thinks _bad_ spirits are at work. She is a wonderful old
lady, past ninety, but full of energy and interest, moving large trees
and making alterations constantly in her house and garden. She kissed me
at parting, and I said "I shall tell my mother what a charming old lady
you are," and she said, "give her my kind regards, and tell her how glad
I was to see you." Well, at last with many hand-shakes and all talking
at once, we parted, and I met Gibson at the station, and we returned to
Boston yesterday, October 25th. I am now writing to you on Sunday from
the Hotel Brunswick. Last evening Dick was out when we arrived, with
Evelyn at a concert, for which I had tickets, but I was too tired to go;
this morning we went to hear Dr. P. Brooks, the great preacher who
everyone was raving about last spring in London, (or was it _last_
year?) his church is like a great _temple_, or public hall, and
cost [pound symbol]180,000. Mr. Winthrop gave us his pew, so we were
well placed, and as he is _very_ rapid and not very loud, the
strain to hear his discourse would have been very great if we had not
been near. "In such an hour as ye think not, the Son of Man cometh."
Christ comes to us in many ways, and through the long ages of the Old
Testament and Christian dispensations he has been continually
_shewing_ Himself,--all great events and promises have partial
fulfilments,--little _milleniums_ have taken pace, and heavenly
Jerusalems have been raised in many a church, in many a gathering of
God's people,--all foreshadowing the _Great Event_ which, will
bring God to man. Then he went on about a _King Idea_, the ruling
object in every profession, in every life; how the _best_ of
_that_ idea,--justice in a lawyer, holiness in a clergyman, and so
on,--was brought home and revealed at times with great power. The
reformations and revivals in the world are the _coming_ in this
sense. He spoke of _unconscious_ love and devotion: that many a
person thinks because they cannot always _feel_ Christ present and
cannot consciously recognize that they act for _Him_ in their daily
life, that they do not love or serve Him; they have given
_themselves_ to Him, but it seems as if He was forgotten while
their daily work and employments _press Him out_. All the time, as
with earthly love and care, the _heart_ is full of Him, and every
now and then strong religious exercises or unusual events excite the
mind; He _comes_ to it in full power, and then they recognize their
Lord. Some of the sermon struck me as too _abstract_, but it was
very suggestive; the music, too, was beautiful. He is a large stout man
with fine well-cut features and beautiful expression. Coming out we met
John and E--- and the Pickerings, who had been elsewhere. I think they
are both tired of America, at least E--- is, and John wants to get to
his work! I am not tired of Americans, but I could not _live_ in
this country; the system political is to me odious, much of the social
system ditto; and the society is so disunited, so patchy, so apparently
without bonds of union or common interests, the life they lead so dull
and without the charms of society at home, and yet there are many as
nice and clever and good as we can find anywhere. I dare say the
missionary and charitable organizations, and educational institutions,
&c., give some interest and occupation to the energetic and pious ones,
but there cannot be much of what _we_ call _parish_ work, or
care of the poor, though there are plenty of poor in the large cities,
and much distress as in older countries. Mrs. Bruen gave me Lowell's
discourse on "The Democracy," which he delivered lately in Birmingham,
and asked me for my candid opinion, without regard to _her_
politics. So I said, "candid I shall be, and first of all being devoted
to my country's old constitution, the democracy has to me a very
unpleasant sound; by that I mean the Government of the many and from
_below_, and _that_ form of Government to me is highly
objectionable. I think with Carlyle, that God meant the rulers of the
world to be those men best fitted by their education and occupations and
experiences to cope with the immense difficulties which encompass good
government. So you see, I can't agree with much Lowell says, but some
things are very good and I have ventured to mark them," upon which she
handed the paper to Professor Shields, and told him to read it, and tell
her what I had marked at a future time, as she wanted to go on talking!
I found Professor Shields quite agreed with me when discussing the
matter next day, but he said, "_we_ can't help ourselves now, take
care _you_ don't get into the same difficulties." Mrs. Bruen made
me give a resume of all the reasons why the Lords opposed the passing of
the Franchise Bill until the Redistribution Bill appeared. I must stop.
We have been to hear Dr. Brooks again, this time _un_-written and
not so interesting.
_Monday, 27th_.--After writing the foregoing yesterday, we went to
dine, and then John called and spent nearly two hours chatting.
_They_ had been to lunch at the Lowell's (relations of the Minister
in England), and leave to-day at one o'clock for New York, and on the
first start in the _Germanica_ for England. I think we are all glad
we are _not_ going to Japan, &c., as I have just written to Mrs.
Neilson, "the old country suits my aged inside the best." I told her I
thought the people about New Brunswick and Boston were especially
delightful. "After this," I added, "you will, perhaps, think me
impertinent if I say they seem to me so English! but after all, you came
from us, and it only shows you have kept the stock pure, while we have
in many cases adopted a spurious Americanism in our ways and speech."
Since I wrote this, Mrs. Perkins, a married daughter of dear Mrs. Bruen,
and a masterful kind of person, has called on me, and upon my making
some such remark as the foregoing, she exclaimed, "I don't like
_that_ at all! Before the war we used to like being taken for
English, but now we _don't_,--How would _you_ like to be taken
for an American?" "Well," I replied, "we don't speak of the
_mother_ being like the _child_; whether you like it or not
you _are_ English by descent, and are our cousins at _least_."
Dick asked her afterwards, "What do you wish to be thought?" "An
American, of course." "Please tell me then how you describe an
_American_?" We could not get her to do so; in fact, nothing
pleases the _set-up_ creatures, for if we judge of them by the
Western or Southern, or even Central Americans, they exclaim at our
injustice, and if we judge by these New England States, they are
indignant at being thought English! This, I believe, is only a
_pretence_, however, and that in their _hearts_ they are fond
of England, and justly proud of the relationship and likeness. Certainly
the New Englanders are conceited and _bumptious_, and in this also
they keep up their British characteristics. They want to lose their
State distinctions (which their patriot Washington was so anxious to
guard), and become _one_ great nation, centralizing everything,
which, indeed, seems the rage everywhere. The Democrats are more
conservative and _really_ liberal, and I trust Cleveland will get
elected as President, for there are many independent Republicans
(_Bolters_, they call them,) who will vote for him, knowing that
Blaine would be a disgrace to their country; he is a plausible rogue,
and respectable people of all opinions almost acknowledge it. Mr. and
Mrs. Winthrop called (I have a nice sitting-room now), and we are to
drive there and lunch with them to-morrow. Mrs. Lowell also called, and
gave us the _Republican_ view of things, being a strong
Anti-Democrat; told us that the Southerners, by arguments of personal
_fear_, made the negroes vote against the Republicans, who they
would otherwise support, according to her story. So much, if true, for
the freedom of American voters! Speaking of sea sickness when crossing
the Atlantic, she said that like (someone else) she thought she should
die the first day, and was afraid she should_n't_ the second day.
Mr. Baillie Hamilton spoke to us at luncheon to-day; he has invented a
new kind of organ, and is perfecting it here, and hopes to make it a
good commercial business in New York, and then go home and marry Lady
Evelyn Campbell. We liked him very much, and wish him all success. Mr.
Perkins called, and we all went to the Archaeological Museum, which is
an entertainment I am unworthy of, as I don't understand Art, china, or
lace, or embroidery, or statuary, and only know what I _like_; but
Mr. Perkins wasted a great deal of valuable information upon me. After
this, we all walked to the common with Mr. Hamilton; he told us that he
had worked for months in a factory at Worcester, near this, in his
_shirt sleeves_, no man knowing him, and he thinks highly of the
American workmen in these parts. They are kind and noble under their too
independent and rough exterior, and that is my own impression; but still
I detest the system which has taught them that respect and politeness
are servile and unmanly, and that domestic service is a disgrace. I had
the pleasure of receiving your letter of 15th October this morning, and
am so glad you can use your hand more. I don't think _any_ of your
letters are missing, but, _without conceit_, mine are of more
value, as those to you are my only journal, and I should forget so many
things if I had not these letters to refer to on returning home. Now I
must finish this. Mr. Hamilton is talking while I am writing, and we
shall see him at New York on the 3rd, Hotel Brunswick. You will probably
only have one more letter from America. I am better, but still rather
queer.
Letter No. 11.
_Wednesday, October 29th, Brunswick Hotel, Boston._
I sent you a letter on Monday, and I will now begin another, which may
be the last from these shores. On Tuesday, Mrs. Pickering, the wife of
the astronomer at Cambridge, called early "to be of use," but I was
engaged to lunch out with the Winthrops, so we arranged to meet to-day.
Dick went to play the organ at Advent Church, and was delighted with it,
full of ingenious mechanism. At half-past twelve Hedley and I met him at
the station, and Mr. Perkins met us, and we found Mrs. Winthrop's
carriage at Brooktines. Mr. Perkins is a very accomplished man, lived a
long time in Germany to study music, and in Italy to study Art
generally. He looks very like Mr. Henry Sidgwick, and you would never
guess he was an American. The drive through Brooklines was very pretty;
we saw three large trees of a pure gold colour on the greenest turf in
one place, which had a lovely effect. The Winthrop's house is not
furnished with aesthetic taste, but there were some good pictures. Mr.
Winthrop has been married three times, and the present wife was married
before, so there is rather a confusion of families. _Her_ daughter
only lives with them, and is affected with a sort of St. Vitus's dance,
which made it rather trying for Hedley to take her in to luncheon; but I
never saw anyone who seemed less self-conscious or more at her ease than
this poor girl, and her mother is devoted to her, and shewed us her
picture in great triumph. We had Mr. Packman, the historian of Canada,
at luncheon, and Mr. Richardson, a celebrated architect, formerly a
slave owner in the Southern States, who liberated his slaves before the
war, but was a "rebel," and lost his all, and had to work for his
living. Mr. Packman said he thought Canada was improving wonderfully,
but (as the English when we were there had told us), the French element
multiplies with extraordinary rapidity, and they are a compact body
under the control of their priests, and so carry all political questions
their own way; consequently, but little progress is made in the province
of Quebec. Mr. Packman is a Republican, but is going to vote for the
Democratic candidate, Mr. Cleveland, because he believes him to be an
honest man, and that Blaine would bring the country into difficulties. I
wish some of _our_ Republicans would come _here_ and learn a
lesson of conscientious independence! There were some ladies besides,
but I did not make out their names. At last luncheon was ready, and such
a nasty luncheon! Great oysters, and raw beef, and dried-up partridges,
and the never failing blocks of ice-cream, which _sounds_ very
nice, but one gets tired of it, especially when it makes one ill!
However, the _mental_ food was very good, and Mr. Winthrop, who
knows everyone, spoke to me of Gladstone. He thinks he "is a man of many
words; he knows something of everything, and a good deal of some
things," but on the whole he evidently does _not_ trust his
statemanship. He knew the late Lord Lytton and his wife, and met her
after their quarrel at Roger's, the poet, and thought her a very fine
clever woman, with charms of manner. Lord Lytton he thought very
unpleasant; very deaf, and sensitive about it, and would not use his
trumpet. Macaulay was very _ponderous_, and had a _Niagara_
flow of language. He always engrossed all conversation, and one got
tired of listening. Mr. Winthrop greatly enjoyed the coming of age of
Lord Cranbourne, at Hatfield, to which he was invited, and he thinks
Lord Salisbury's speaking more interesting than Gladstone's,--that the
House of Lords might make some compromise about the Redistribution Bill,
and that it would be an immense pity for England to lose the three
estates of the realm, and the Established church. "We don't want you to
become a Republic, but keep up the standard of good government for the
rest of the world." Afterwards we went to Mr. Augustus Lowell's, and
there we found all vehement for _Blaine_! I did not agree with
their arguments, but listened to all very meekly and attentively! They
also urged us, as every one else, _not_ to give in to the idea of
universal suffrage, which is the _bane_, they say, of politics in
this country, and causes all their difficulties. After tea we drove home
five miles in Mr. Winthrop's carriage; I like her very much, and she has
more _softness_ of manner, being a Southerner, than the Americans
sometimes have. Wednesday we met Mrs. Pickering at the station, and
after a short railway journey, drove to the beautiful grounds of
_Wellesley College_, founded by a rich American, Mr. Durrant, for
girls over sixteen. Three separate buildings, and a pretty lake, and a
very interesting President, Miss Freeman, about thirty. After seeing the
perfect and numerous arrangements made for the education of the young
women, chemistry-rooms, libraries, statuary, &c., &c., and making
acquaintance with some of the lady professors, we had luncheon with
hundreds of girls; some of these pay less, (the regular payment is
forty-five dollars or pounds, I forget which, a year), and have some
light work to do, _wait_ on us, &c. I can't say the luncheon was
good! the beef hard, and I had only bread and jam! I thought "unless
they have a really good breakfast and dinner, these young women will not
be able to bear the strain on their mental and bodily powers." After
this innocent meal, six young girls, dressed in blue serge and white
costumes, with hats of the shape of undergraduate's, rowed us in two
boats, one painted blue with light oars, the other white, and the girls
rowing it also in white costumes; our blue captain was a very pretty
bright girl, just the type one reads of in novels as the American girl,
(but not a _lady_ in the American view, or our own,) and she
chatted away, and led the others in some pretty songs, while they rested
on their oars, and then we were obliged to hurry away. One of the
professors told me now clever the _captain_ was, and another asked
me to send six copies of Hedley's Memoirs for the Sunday Lending Library
here, with my name, "which they should value so much." We returned to
Cambridge, and kind Mrs. Pickering, who is very good looking and
energetic, took us to Harvard College, and we saw the Memorial Hall, and
interesting Gymnasium, where the young men were practising all kinds of
wonderful exercises. We got home very tired, and at seven o'clock dined
with Mr. and Mrs. Perkins. Mrs. Perkins, like her mother, Mrs. Bruen,
has had great experiences in Spiritualism, and believes it is _not
good_.
_Thursday, 30th_.--At Mrs. Pruyn's, _Albany_.--We left Boston
about eleven o'clock, and found her carriage and cart waiting for us at
station, and received a most kind welcome. She is a rather stout woman,
of about forty, who has been very pretty, and has two daughters of
sixteen and eleven, and a stepson who is very delicate. Mrs. Pruyn is
very rich, (everything having been left to her as usual here), and the
house is filled with beautiful gold and silver-plate, and china and
books, and curiosities of all sorts. She seems very energetic and good
in all relations of life. Some people dined,--her father, Judge Parker,
Mr. and Mrs. Kidd, Mr. Ledgard, of old Dutch extraction, which is very
common here and in the States generally, and lives in the country
_Canzenovia_, on the shores of a lake. His family have been there
for generations.
_Friday, 31st_.--We all went to see the Capitol, an enormous and
handsome building not yet completed, but what I cared for much more, we
saw the President, or rather I should say, the _candidate_,
Governor Cleveland. He talked with us some minutes, and seemed a simple,
honest kind of man, without vulgarity, but not of society manners or
attractiveness. I wished him success, for which he thanked me cordially.
The poor man is hunted to death by men and meetings of all sorts. So we
did not stay long. I caught cold in this hot place, (they do burn such
fearful _furnaces_ in the houses here), and I could not go out
again.
_Saturday_.--Remained in bed till four o'clock to-day, and then
got up to tea, Mrs. Pruyn's sister, Mrs. Corney, such a nice cheerful
woman, with a face something like Lisa's, and Mrs. Evans, with a
handsome niece, came to lunch yesterday, Miss Pruyn drove Hedley in a
nice pony carriage. At dinner we had General and Mrs. Mirvan, another
sister, and Dr. Holms, Librarian in the Capitol. This afternoon two
presents of flowers came for me; they all went to church in the morning,
being All Saints' day. The Evans asked us all to dine, but Mrs. Pruyn
had company at home. Mr. Palmer, son of the man who sculptured "Faith,"
so often photographed, and the clergyman of St. Peter's, Dr.
Battershall, who was very pleasant, and talked nicely of Mr. Rainsford,
son of Mr. Rainsford of Halkin street, who has done wonders in New York,
at St. George's. The American religious people are far less narrow
minded and censorious than _we_ are; one sect or party _can_
see that a great deal of good and successful work is done by another!
Mrs. Pruyn is decidedly ritualistic, but she is quite sorry I shall not
be here next week, to hear Moody and Sankey, who are to hold meetings. A
Miss Lansing dined here, and seems a very touchy American-loving person,
and snubbed the boys if they hinted anything here was not perfection.
_Sunday, 2nd_.--Heard a good sermon from Dr. Battershall, at St.
Peter's, on "Seeing _Him_ who is invisible,"--the Apostle's
definition of _faith_. We remained to Holy Communion. He is
evidently fond of ritual, but there was nothing really objectionable. In
the evening we all went to Judge Parker's, and Mrs. Parker, who had not
left her room for some weeks, came down to see me, and is a very nice
old lady; all the daughters and their husbands, and the widower son,
came to heavy tea, a regular custom in the family--then Dick played, and
we sung hymns.
_Monday, 3rd_.--Had a delightful drive with Mrs. Pruyn in the
morning, violet mountains (the Caltgills) in the distance, with
brilliant foreground of autumn tinted trees, and golden fields, and a
bright sun shining on all, made a pretty picture; the streets and roads
here are very bad, as generally in America; really one drives over
_boulders_ of stone in some of the streets here, and they say, "it
can't be helped, the municipal corporation have it in their own hands."
Our kind hostess has given me a pretty dusting brush and a book, &c.,
and is going to send me a box of biscuits I liked, for the voyage home.
Mrs. Pickering has sent me a pretty little case, with my initials on it.
We left Albany at twenty minutes to three, and much enjoyed the scenery
on the banks of the Hudson _en route_ to New York, but it got dark
before we came to the prettiest part, and we did not get settled in this
Hotel Brunswick till past eight o'clock.
_Tuesday, 4th_.--After a better night I awoke, feeling less
uncomfortable, but I have not been at all well lately, and I suppose
that what I want is _rest_ and a different diet. I found dear
Mary's letter, and one from Clara. I shall not hear any more, I suppose,
now, till I meet Edward, &c., at Ampton Hall, on the 20th inst. We all
agree our hearts are "homeward bound" now, and the dear old Grandie
will, please God, welcome us back in health and peace. I have had lots
of visitors this morning and afternoon. To-night we dine with my
Philadelphia friend, Mrs. B. Moore.
_Later_.--We met Monseigneur Capel at dinner, and Major Recard
Seaver, and a Miss Hooker. Crowds all about the hotel (Fifth Avenue);
electoral returns put up in front of an electric light near it, and
cheers as they appeared to favour one side or another from the dense
crowd. Monseigneur Capel is handsome and agreeable, but he did not
impress me _at all_ as a sincere or saintly person. We had to make
our way home through a great crush, but there was nothing unpleasant.
The Republicans have had it all their own way for more than twenty
years, and have, of _course_, become tyrannical and corrupt, so no
wonder the best of them support Cleveland, who is believed to be honest,
and has proved himself capable and sensible as Governor of New York. The
cheering and groaning went on all night, which was not conducive to
sound slumber. They cheer and groan in _unison_, which has a
curious effect.
Letter No. 12.
_November 7th, Brunswick Hotel, New York._
I am not sure whether I wrote up my journal to _this_ date,
Wednesday, 5th. On that morning Hedley and I went by _elevated_
railway to get money from the bank, and pay for our passages in Cunard
boat, the _Oregon_, on the 12th. After luncheon, Mrs. Belmont
called and took Dick and me a drive in the park, and afterwards to
Tiffany's, the great place for jewellery and such things. Dick went then
to hear Mr. Baillie Hamilton's organ, and Hedley walked to the Millers,
where Mrs. Belmont took us for an afternoon party they had got up for my
benefit. They live in rather a nice flat, which was crowded with people,
and where I got the most delicious chocolate and cream and biscuits! I
was introduced to _everyone_, I think, and talked politics as much
as I could with all the men in turn; even the Republicans strongly
advise our retaining the House of Lords, and _not_ giving universal
suffrage. There were some nice-looking well-dressed people at this
party, and all so kind and anxious we should be pleased. I like the
Americans! they are so good _au fond_, and the women are superior
to the men of the younger generation. After dinner at the hotel, Hedley
spied out Mr. Angus, our host at Montreal, and we had a long chat. The
election is not yet decided, and the Democrats say that the others are
likely to play tricks with the ballot boxes, and they have certainly
delayed electoral returns; having command of ballot boxes, railways, and
telegraphs, they can easily do this, and if people arrive at thinking,
as some do at _home_, that a man's conscience ought only to
consider the importance of keeping _his party_ in power, and ignore
every other consideration, why, what is to stop these kind of things? If
a man's conscience is not to _weigh down_ the advantages of gain to
his _party_ in some matters, why in others?
_Thursday, 6th_.--We started as arranged at a quarter to nine to
the Normal School for girls, richly endowed by some citizen, and
entirely free. It was a good walk and we were not lucky in our trams,
and so we arrived rather late at the large hall. Our friend General
Wilson introduced me to the President, who placed me in his chair, and
then I saw before me fifteen hundred young women. They got up singly and
recited interesting quotations and sung, and then marched out to music
in military order. We went to another hall, and saw them exercised, and
they were healthy and graceful performances. These girls come at nine
and stay till two, and are thoroughly well taught. Little ones, too, are
instructed by the elder girls. It is a capital education for the future
mothers and teachers. I suppose most of our girls go to service of that
class! We then went to General Wilson's, and breakfasted on soup, fish,
venison steak, &c. A very agreeable lady, a Southerner, was there, and
as General Wilson is a Republican, we argued, and he found all the party
against his views, but he is used to being crushed, for his wife is a
Democrat. He wanted us to go to see a famous library, but I was too
tired, and when he and the boys returned we went home, and Mr. and Mrs.
Neilson were waiting for us at the hotel. We then started for a very
high building near the river, when we mounted in an elevator, and had a
beautiful view of New York, and could see the splendid river and
water-way in which it rejoices, but everything is spoilt in America for
the sake of the _railways_, and steamers, and wharves, and you see
no pretty houses near the river banks in the cities. Brooklyn Bridge is
fine, and I half hoped to cross it and find out Dr. Penticost, but was
_finished up_, and went home to rest. Then visitors came: Mrs.
Gardener, daughter of Bishop Doane, of Albany, very nice; then we dined
at the Belmont's. The house is gorgeous in embroidery, and pictures, and
statues, and all in very good taste, and more _comfortable_ than
most of their fine houses. The dinner, too, was _very_ good, and I
was the better for the excellent champagne. Mrs. Belmont is a wonderful
little woman, with thick brown hair, and looking about forty, and I have
seen people look as old at thirty. He is short and lame, and rather
plain, but is clever and agreeable, and speaks with a strong foreign
accent. Their son, Mr. Percy Belmont, has been elected three times for
Congress. There was a southern lady there and her husband, Madame
Hoffman, I think, and a Miss Wright. Madame Hoffman is very handsome and
lively. The Belmonts apologized for a small party, because they are in
mourning. They keep up mourning dress and customs tremendously long
here. At first I thought there were a surprising number of widows going
about, but I discovered they were mourning for their aunts or
grandmothers.
The election was not settled till late last night, and they say the
Republicans are still disputing the returns--and they feared riots in
New York. I must say they seem wonderfully quiet, and I slept till
half-past eight this morning, longer than for weeks past. To-day's
papers announce Lord Londonderry's death and Mr. Fawcett's. How many
people one is interested in have died since we left England in August!
_Friday, 9th_.--Mr. Baillie Hamilton took Dick and me to, hear his
organ "_vocalian_," at a church, it was a _walk_ for me, and
the wind was very cold and strong, church very hot, and so I caught
cold. I should die of some lung complaint if I remained here long! We
started for Long Island about three, crossing in a ferry and then by
rail, and found on reaching the station that Mr. Jones and Miss Miller
were unhappy about us, as they could not find us in the train. Carriages
were waiting and we reached Unqua in twenty minutes. A good sized house
(and my bedroom quite splendid) on a bit of grass land, with stumpy
trees scattered anyhow, opposite and close to South Oyster Bay,--which
is divided from the Atlantic by a narrow strip of sand, back premises in
full view, with chickens and turkeys everywhere in full possession!
_All_ the establishment awaited out arrival, I think, in the hall,
including two smart waiters come for the auspicious occasion. Mrs. and
Miss Jones (her sister), and a Miss Jones (niece) with her father who is
a widower and lives there, and Col. Jones a grass widower whose wife
lives in Paris. At dinner I appeared as smart as I could, and I think
made a sensation, judging by the approving looks and smiles cast upon
me! Nearly all the neighbours are Jones's or Loyd Jones's, and some of
them dined.
_Saturday, 8th_.--I rested in my room till twelve, and then in a
smart tea gown was _seated_ next Mrs. Jones on a sofa, and was
introduced to each one as they shook hands with her and with me; they
were nearly all strangers to me, but some sat for a few minutes on my
other side and talked, and some asked us to go and see them, but I was
obliged to decline all hospitalities, as we have no time for more. They
were not particularly well dressed _generally_, nor was I struck by
the beauty of the young women. Mrs. Belmont, who is a leader of fashion
in New York, said, "I hope you won't think this is the _best_ of
New York society;" however, I know I have at different times seen the
_best_, and there were many there who represented _la creme de la
creme_. Sir Richard Temple was one of the very few English present,
all were very kind and cordial, and I really felt quite an important
_Personage!_ almost royalty! The luncheon was a terrific scramble,
for waiting is so bad in America, and I got nothing to eat till very
late, and my head ached horribly--after shaking hands with four hundred
people (three hundred came by special train from New York), it was not
much wonder, and I retired to lie down at half-past four, when they all
had gone.
_Sunday 9th_.--I was in bed quite ill till past four, and then I
came down and was petted and nursed. Dick went back yesterday afternoon,
and the last we saw of him was hanging on to the back of one of the
numerous carriages, which he caught just in time to reach the train. I
could not go out to tea as arranged with some relations, but the others
did excepting Mrs. and Miss Jones. At half-past seven we had supper
altogether and champagne, &c. Nothing could be kinder than everyone.
_Monday, 10th_.--At two, after luncheon, they sent us to the
station (Mr. Jones, such a good nice man, had gone early to New York),
and Miss Miller accompanied us. On arriving at the hotel there was Mrs.
Bidgelow, a very cordial lady who had invited us to West Point; she
seized me and exclaimed, "I am so glad just to have caught you and seen
you once more," and she called me "dear," sometimes, and begged she
might kiss me at parting, and as she was nice looking I didn't mind!
That night being engaged to go with Mrs. Belmont to the opera, I felt,
in spite of the risk, I must do it. So I went well wrapped up and sat
behind in the beautiful large box, so that I could cough without at any
rate being _seen_, and I hope did not much interfere with the
enjoyment of _Patti_ by others, but for myself it was no enjoyment
at all. There were smart and well-dressed people in the opera house, but
_not up_ to _our_ upper "ten thousand" and they talked while
Patti was singing in our box which was close to the stage.
_Tuesday_.--Mr. Cleland Burns of the Cunard Company, an old
acquaintance, came to see me with many kind offers to arrange everything
for my comfort, as he and his daughters were going in the _Oregon_,
and also Mr. W. Cunard, and his son; a Mr. Morgan, a banker and friend
of Mrs. Pruyn's, has put off coming unfortunately, for from all accounts
he is much to be liked; he called twice, and the second time I was able
to see him. I remained quiet, but saw many visitors, and many I was
obliged to decline seeing; the _sons_ both went out to dine.
_Wednesday, 12th_.--At half-past ten we started with baggage for
ship, got all on board comfortably, found one lady in my cabin, and I
spoke to Mr. Burns, who said he would arrange for me after we had
started; lots of people came to see their friends off. Mr. Neilson,
brought me some beautiful butter for the voyage! Mrs. Pruyn telegraphed
and sent me the biscuits; Mr. Hall, a brother of Mrs. Edlmann, and Mr.
Eyre, friends of Dick's came, and Mr. Carpenter an acquaintance from New
Brunswick, and Mr. Whitehouse, a literary acquaintance. At six o'clock
we started in the fine ship _Oregon_, in which I am now writing. It
was a lovely _Indian_ summer day, _clear_ as we rarely see it
in our Islands, sun shining, and so we saw the splendid Bay of New York
to great advantage, it seemed wonderful to us after our experience going
to Quebec, to see how calm and blue the great Atlantic _could_ be.
Mr. Burns put me into a cabin to myself near _them_, but
unfortunately it was also very near the engines, and after two nights, I
sneaked back to my own berth, and put up with a very quiet little lady
in preference! Mr. Burns placed us at their table, and I have the
benefit of his cheerful company and his lively daughters, as well as the
champagne and good things he shares with us, and we are a very merry
party, and enjoyed ourselves much, until Friday, when the weather
changed. A Mr. Clinton, a fine looking man of six feet six inches, son
of Lord Charles Clinton, a Mr. Dickson, a very gentlemanlike nice
ex-guardsman, a Mr. and Mrs. Drake, who are very musical, and he plays
the flute better than anyone I ever heard, all sat near us, but for two
or three days we had the _old story_, and the waves beat and rolled
us about, and the passengers disappeared like mice to their holes, and
we could not go on deck.
LIST OF SALOON PASSENGERS PER R. M. S. "OREGON," (CAPTAIN McMICKAN,)
NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, Nov. 12TH, 1884
Miss Appleford
Mr. Julian B. Arnold
Mr. J. Fred Ackerman
Mr. Jose d'Aranjo
Mr. and Mrs. Edward Austin
Mr. Alex Aitchinson
Mr. C. D. Armstrong
Rev J. A. Anderson
Capt and Mrs. Bogle, six Children and two Servants
Miss Bogle
Master Bogle
Miss Bodwell
Mr. C. Bayley
Mr. G. Bayley
Mr. Thos. A. Bell
Mr. J. N. Beach
Mr. Arthur A. Brigham
Hon. F. A. K. Bennett
Mr. S. A. Budgett
Mr. J. Cleland Burns
Miss Jean Burns
Miss Grace Burns, and Maid
Rev. Geo. A. Brown
Mr. B. Bonfort
Miss Martha Bonfort
Mr. J. Barnes
Rev. Edwin M. Bliss
Mr. F.D. Blakeslee
Mr. J. Lomas Bullock
Mr. W. Butterworth
Mrs. Mary B. Byrne
Mr. John Blair
Rev. John Boylan
Mr. J. Collins
Mr. Stanley Conner
Mr. Aug. T. Chur
Miss Cranston
Mr. and Mrs. Wm. M. Cranston
Mr. J. P. Croal
Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Russell Crampton
Miss Florence A. Cordis
Miss Nellie R. Cordis
Mr. L. Crules
Mr. F. M. Crick
Mr. and Mrs. Woodie Cook, and Son
Mr. John Cholditch
Mr. Pelham Clinton
Mr. John L. Chapman
Mr. Alex. Campbell
Mr. Wm. Cunard
Mr. Ernst H. Cunard
Mr. Geo. Dixon
Mr. John Dixon
Mr. Frank S. Dougherty
Mr. Chas. Algernon Dougherty
Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Drake
Rev. and Mrs. W. E. Daniel
Miss Annie Davis
Mr. Walter Dickinson
Mr. Ed. M. Denny
Mr. Ed. Henry Denny
Mr. Chas. Edward Denny
Mr. J. H. Douglas-William
Mr. F. J. Douglas-William
Miss R. Emmett
Miss Emmett
Miss Lydia F. Emmett
Mr. and Mrs. Robert Easson, and two Children
Mr. A. S. Emmet
Mr. Frank Evans
Miss Alice Foster
Miss Emma Foster
Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Fiddian
Rev. M. Flynn
Mr. Chandos-Pole-Gell
Mr. C. Gostenhofer
Mr. G. Greiner
Mr. R. Gebhardt
Rev. Miles Grant
Mr. and Mrs. C. W. Gordon, and two Children
Mr. Francis Henry
Mrs. H. J. Hastings
Miss Hastings, and two Maids
Mr. Nigel F. Hatton
Mr. Michael Hughes
Rev. and Mrs. E. P. Hammond
Mr. F. Henriques
Mr. Clarence M. Hyde
Mr. Theodore Haviland
Mr. C. T. Hunter
Mr. F. W. Hutchins
Mr. Henry R. Hoyt
Mr. E. L. Hamilton
Mr. John Hall
Mr. W. Howden
Mr. W. E. Jarratt
Mr. Chas. Johnston
Mr. A. de Journel
Mr. T. O. Jones
Mme. Marie Joseph
Mme. Honorat
Mme. Helena
Miss Kenyon
Mr. Adolph Keitel
Mr. Richard Kibble
Mrs. Kidd
Miss Kidd
Miss B. Kidd
Master Kidd
Mr. Frank Kemp
Mr. and Mrs. A. Ladenborg
Dr. and Mrs. Landis
Mr. W. Liddell
Mr. A. Lindsey
Mr. Edmund Lees
Mr. John Lawrance
Mr. P. Lawrence
Mr. John Leach
Mr. E. Middleton
Dr. Wm. B. Meany
Mr. G. B. Mackintire
Mr. Archd. A. McDonald
Mr. Ch. Mordaunt
Mr. M. L. Marcus
Mr. and Mrs. W. T. Makellar
Mr. Herbert Mead
Mrs. L. Middleton
Mr. W. W. Marks
Mr. M. MacLehose
Mr. Paul Meischer
Mr. Alex. McEwen
Mias Mills
Mr. Robt. J. McClure
Sister Eliza Monica
Mr. Francis More
Mr. A. Bishop Mason
Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Nichols, and Child
Mr. and Mrs. C. F. Noyes
Mr. Jeffreys Owen
Mr. and Mrs. Henry M. Peyser
Hon. F. Petre
Mr. Richd. C. Perkins
Miss Puleston
Mrs. C. B. Paulmier
Miss Nellie Paulmier
Miss Richardson and Maid
Mr. and Mrs. E. G. Rideoot and Maid
Mr. and Mrs. J. M. Richardson, and Maid
Lady Rayleigh, and Maid
Mr. J. E. Raymond
Mr. J. F. Raymond
Mr. Jno. F. Roy
Captain Hugh Rose
Mr. and Mrs. H. Skerrett Rogers
Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Riches
Miss Marion Riches
Mr. Champion B. Russell
Mr. W. Scott
Mr. Harmon Spruance
Mr. and Mrs. T. J. Schickle
Mr. Frank W. Stokes
Mr. C. F. Schmidt
Mr. Matthew Snoeck
Mr. Philip M. Smith
Mr. O. Streatfeild
Hon. Richd. Strutt
Hon. Hedley V. Strutt
Mr. G. S. Stephen
Rev. Geo. Mure Smith
Mr. I. L. Solomon
Mr. Frank Sartoris
Mr. E. W. Sawyer
Mrs. Trielhard
Mrs. Martin Thouron, and two Sons
Mr. H Trevenen
Mrs. Edwin F Taylor
Mr. Alfred R Tregellas
Mrs. L J Trowbridge
Mr. John A. Talk
Mr. A. Taylor
Mr. A. M Talbot
Mr. Jean Verga
Sister Mary Virginia
Mr. Chas E Willoughby
Mr. Geo Windeler
Miss Minnie Wilson
Miss Walls
Mr. Wm. Ward
Mr. O. M. Warren
Miss Adelaide Wilson
Mr. Thomas Webb
Mr. G. F. Watson
Mr. Gordon Wendell
Mr. A. H. Willey
Mr. A. Woodthorpe
Mr. A. J. Winn
Mr. and Mrs. T. H. Watress
Mr. W. A. Webber
Mr. W. D. Webb
Mrs. E. Wolfe, and Maid
Dr. Wm. N. Wilson
Mrs. Emily Woods
Mr. H. R. Williams
Mr. J. S. Wilson
This morning, _Tuesday, 18th_, I awoke after a very "dirty" night,
to find the sun shining, and the sea comparatively calm. Last night we
had a concert; on their requesting some American to lead off the "Star
Spangled Banner," a nice looking elderly man, whom we had called G. O.
M., got up and said perhaps you may be surprised to hear that for one
American who knows "Star Spangled Banner," one hundred and fifty know
"God Save the Queen," upon which we cheered him, and stood up and
_all_ lustily sang "God Save the Queen;" after this dissipation we
added that of an oyster supper and _toddy_! thanks to Mr. Burns.
Here is the Programme of our Concert:--
R.M.S. "OREGON," (Capt. McMickan).
"OREGONIAN COMPANY"
A GRAND CONCERT WILL BE GIVEN TO-NIGHT, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17th, 1884, IN
AID OF THE LIVERPOOL SEAMEN'S ORPHANAGE. PATRONESS.--CLARA LADY
RAYLEIGH. MANAGERS.--SIGNOR CUNARDO & SIGNOR BURNSEASI
PROGRAMME.
SONG ........ "Auld Robin Gray" Prima Donna DRAKE.
SONG ...... "For Ever and for Ever" ... Mrs. E. WOLFE.
SONG .............. "Sailing" ... Mr. C. E. WILLOUGHBY.
SOLO FLUTE ............................... Herr DRAKE.
SONG .................................. Miss PULESTON.
SONG .......................... Mr. CHANDOS-POLE-GELL.
SONG ............................. Mr. BRIGHTMAN, A.B.
SONG (Flute Obligato, Herr Drake) . Prima Donna DRAKE.
SONG .......................... Mr. J. SWANSTON WILSON.
STAR SPANGLED BANNER )
) .................. The COMPANY.
GOD SAVE THE QUEEN )
ACCOMPANIST ........... HON. RICHARD STRUTT
AMERICAN MONEY WILL BE TAKEN.
CARRIAGES MAY BE ORDERED FOR 9.30 PM
My cabin is opposite Dick and Hedley's, and the latter has great jokes
about my treatment of my small lady companion! He says she is frightened
to death of me, and is afraid to come into the cabin until I am safe in
my berth! My love for the sea has received a severe check, though I
think no other sea can be as bad and uninteresting as this tremendous
Atlantic! I have not an idea where you are, but hope it is at
Margaret's, and I shall send this there, as the best chance of your
receiving it soon. I shall post this at Queenstown, when Dick will also
telegraph to Augusta at Ampton, and he has asked her to let you know of
our safety a s far as that. The Americans have been singing in choruses
while I have been writing, practising for a concert.
_Tuesday, 18th, eight o'clock p.m._--I hear we shall get to
Queenstown to-morrow morning, about ten o'clock. I have a game of whist
coming on, and there is to be an American concert, "Star Spangled
Banner," and all. Miss Puleston, who I have chaperoned in the
_Oregon_ from New York, is to be left at Queenstown.
_Wednesday, 19th, Queenstown._--The coast has been so pretty, and,
of course, quite smooth, compared to what we have been accustomed to of
late. I got up early, and saw all the sacks of letters, six hundred,
from all parts of the world, carried on men's backs to the tugs on
either side of the _Oregon_, and we parted with Miss Puleston and
some others, and now I must stop as this is going to be posted. We
expect to be at Liverpool some time to-night, and shall leave at once
for Ampton, where I look forward to seeing so many of my dear ones. Dick
and I agree that our happiest days have been the day we reached Quebec,
and the day we left New York, both glorious in weather and scenery!
_Given by Mr. AUGUSTUS CHUR, American, of New York, of German descent,
November 18th, 1884, on "Oregon"_
My country, 'tis of thee,
Sweet land of liberty,
Of thee I sing,
Land where my Fathers died.
Land of the Pilgrims' pride,
From every mountain side
Let Freedom ring.
My native country thee,
Land of the noble free,
Thy name I love,
I love thy rocks and rills,
Thy woods and templed hills,
My heart with rapture thrills
Like that above
Our Father, GOD, to Thee,
Author of Liberty,
Thy name we sing.
Long may our land be bright
With Freedom's holy light,
Protect us by Thy might
Great God our King
_November 19th._--I posted my letter to you at Queenstown. We had
a very pleasant day on deck, and while playing some innocent whist in
the evening, Mr. Burns announced, "We have arrived at Liverpool!" It
seemed so wonderful! We remained at anchor after a very slow, careful
steaming up the river, and it was pretty to watch the lights and the dim
outlines as we passed by.
_20th._--After a tremendous bustle at Custom House, where our
boxes were all opened, but mine only just unfastened, Dick and I started
in the train across country for Suffolk. We wished a hearty good-bye to
our fellow-passengers. It was sad to see poor Mrs. Bogle standing with
her seven children among her great deal boxes, _screwed down_ (for
she had only time on leaving Barbadoes to pack hurriedly), and then to
look at the Custom House officials opening them all--thanks to the
dynamite people, who make this precaution necessary. I must confess I
thoroughly enjoyed our quiet smooth journey. All the time we had a
carriage to ourselves (Hedley remained at Liverpool to visit the Woods
at Birkenhead), and we only changed twice, having our luncheon
comfortably in a basket _en route_, and reached Ingham about seven
o'clock, where the carriage was waiting, and found dear Edward, Lisa,
Augusta, and Rosa Paley at Ampton; Clara and Jack had been staying out,
but returned after dinner when they heard of our arrival. It was so
delightful to be among so many dear ones again, and oh! the luxury of a
large comfortable bed, and how thoroughly I enjoyed it, and the quiet
and beauty of Ampton altogether! I hear you are expected in London
to-morrow. I never lost anything during my whole journey, excepting two
things, which were left behind in our railway car at Winnipeg, owing to
that horrid cook hiding them; but on this journey from Liverpool, my
emerald ring, set with diamonds, must have slipped off my finger, and
could not be found, though I telegraphed, &c., at once; this is an
unpleasant episode.
_P.S. to my Diary._--I spent a fortnight of complete rest and
quiet at Ampton with dear Clara, &c., and was under medical care most of
the time with a bad cough and derangement of liver; notwithstanding, it
was a happy, peaceful time, and I little thought it was my last visit to
that dear old house!
On _Saturday, 3rd January_, soon after my return from Weston, when
I had been visiting Lady Camperdown, the three sisters Beatrice, Clara
and Rosa arrived to tell me that the whole house, excepting the study
and kitchen rooms, was burnt to a _shell_ that morning at three
o'clock! A large children's party had been given Friday evening, and
many people had scarcely left at one o'clock, and Clara was not in bed
till half-past one o'clock. The fire broke out at a quarter to three
o'clock, was discovered by a maid visitor, and nearly everyone had to
leave their bedrooms with only the clothes on their backs, and for some
time Clara and Jack, &c., had not time to think of putting more on,
though it was bitterly cold. Thank God, no one was hurt, and as the fire
spread rapidly, and the cold was very great, there was great cause for
thankfulness. Everyone worked well and showed presence of mind, with one
or two exceptions, and Clara and Jack were calm and active throughout,
but it was a dreadful blow and I felt quite _knocked down_, and did
not recover for some time.
On _Wednesday, 21st January_, I accompanied Clara and Arthur, and
Miss MacCormack to Barton, where Jack joined us from Ampton.
On _Thursday_ we drove over there, and I had the melancholy
satisfaction of seeing the ruins, and trying to find something for Rosa,
who had lost everything; alas! without success.
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