The Jewish Manual
by
Judith Cohen Montefiore
Part 1 out of 4
Produced by David Starner, Jonathan Chaney and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team.
The Jewish Manual;
OR
Practical Information in Jewish And Modern Cookery,
With a Collection of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the
Toilette.
Edited by a Lady.
LONDON: 1846.
EDITOR'S PREFACE.
Among the numerous works on Culinary Science already in circulation,
there have been none which afford the slightest insight to the Cookery
of the Hebrew kitchen.
Replete as many of these are with information on various important
points, they are completely valueless to the Jewish housekeeper, not
only on account of prohibited articles and combinations being assumed
to be necessary ingredients of nearly every dish, but from the entire
absence of all the receipts peculiar to the Jewish people.
This deficiency, which has been so frequently the cause of
inconvenience and complaint, we have endeavoured in the present little
volume to supply. And in taking upon ourselves the responsibility of
introducing it to the notice of our readers, we have been actuated
by the hope that it will prove of some practical utility to those for
whose benefit it is more particularly designed.
It has been our earnest desire to simplify as much as possible the
directions given regarding the rudiments of the art, and to render the
receipts which follow, clear, easy, and concise. Our collection will
be found to contain all the best receipts, hitherto bequeathed only
by memory or manuscript, from one generation to another of the Jewish
nation, as well as those which come under the denomination of plain
English dishes; and also such French ones as are now in general use at
all refined modern tables.
A careful attention has been paid to accuracy and economy in the
proportions named, and the receipts may be perfectly depended upon, as
we have had the chief part of them tested in our own kitchen and under
our own _surveillance_.
All difficult and expensive modes of cookery have been purposely
omitted, as more properly belonging to the province of the
confectioner, and foreign to the intention of this little work; the
object of which is, to guide the young Jewish housekeeper in the
luxury and economy of "The Table," on which so much of the pleasure of
social intercourse depends.
The various acquirements, which in the present day are deemed
essential to female education, rarely leave much time or inclination
for the humble study of household affairs; and it not unfrequently
happens, that the mistress of a family understands little more
concerning the dinner table over which she presides, than the graceful
arrangement of the flowers which adorn it; thus she is incompetent to
direct her servant, upon whose inferior judgment and taste she is
obliged to depend. She is continually subjected to impositions from
her ignorance of what is required for the dishes she selects, while a
lavish extravagance, or parsimonious monotony betrays her utter
inexperience in all the minute yet indispensible details of elegant
hospitality.
However, there are happily so many highly accomplished and
intellectual women, whose example proves the compatability of uniting
the cultivation of talents with domestic pursuits, that it would be
superfluous and presumptuous were we here to urge the propriety and
importance of acquiring habits of usefulness and household knowledge,
further than to observe that it is the unfailing attribute of a
superior mind to turn its attention occasionally to the lesser objects
of life, aware how greatly they contribute to its harmony and its
happiness.
The _Cuisine_ of a woman of refinement, like her dress or her
furniture, is distinguished, not for its costliness and profusion, but
for a pervading air of graceful originality. She is quite sensible
of the regard due to the reigning fashion of the day, but her own
tasteful discrimination is always perceptible. She instinctively
avoids every thing that is hackneyed, vulgar, and common place,
and uniformly succeeds in pleasing by the judicious novelties she
introduces.
We hope, therefore, that this unpretending little work may not prove
wholly unacceptable, even to those ladies who are not of the Hebrew
persuasion, as it will serve as a sequel to the books on cookery
previously in their possession, and be the medium of presenting them
with numerous receipts for rare and exquisite compositions, which if
uncommemorated by the genius of Vatel, Ude, or Careme, are delicious
enough not only to gratify the lovers of good cheer generally, but to
merit the unqualified approbation of the most fastidious epicures.
We ought, perhaps, to apologize for the apparent incongruity of
connecting the "Toilet" with the "Kitchen;" but the receipts and
suggestions comprised in the Second Part of the work before us,
will not, we trust, be considered misplaced in a volume addressed
exclusively to the ladies.
Many of the receipts are for articles in common use, but which, with
proper directions, are prepared with greater economy and in a superior
manner at home; the others are all original receipts, many of them
extremely ancient, and given to us by a person who can vouch for their
efficacy from personal experience and observation.
We must now conclude our preliminary remarks, but cannot take leave of
our patient readers without availing ourselves of the opportunity our
editorial capacity affords, to express our hope, that with all its
faults and deficiencies "The Jewish Manual" may prove to them a useful
assistant, and be fortunate enough to meet with their lenient, kind,
and favourable consideration.
CONTENTS.
* * * * *
PART I.
INTRODUCTION.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK
* * * * *
CHAPTER I. SOUPS
CHAPTER II. SAUCES AND FORCEMEAT
CHAPTER III. FISH
CHAPTER IV. MEATS AND POULTRY COOKED IN VARIOUS WAYS
CHAPTER V. VEGETABLES, OMELETTES, FONDEAUX, CROQUETTES, RISOLES, &C.
CHAPTER VI. PASTRY
CHAPTER VII. SWEET DISHES, PUDDINGS, JELLIES, CREAMS, CHARLOTTES,
SOUFLES, GATEAUX, TRIFLES, CUSTARDS, CAKES, &C.
CHAPTER VIII. PRESERVES AND BOTTLING
CHAPTER IX. PICKLING
CHAPTER X. RECEIPTS FOR INVALIDS
APPENDIX
THE TOILETTE.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I. THE COMPLEXION, &c., &c.
CHAPTER II. THE HAIR
CHAPTER III. THE TEETH
CHAPTER IV. THE HANDS AND NAILS
CHAPTER V. DRESS
CHAPTER VI. EFFECTS OF DIET ON THE COMPLEXION
CHAPTER VII. INFLUENCE OF THE MIND AS REGARDS BEAUTY
GLOSSARY.
_Aspie_, a term used for savoury jelly, in which cold poultry, meat,
&c., is often served.
_Bain-Marie_. This is a large pan filled with boiling water, in which
several saucepans can be placed when their contents are required to be
kept hot without boiling--this is a useful article in a kitchen, where
the manner in which sauces are prepared is considered deserving of
attention.
_Bechamel_, a superior kind of white sauce, used in French cookery.
_Blanquette_, a kind of fricassee with a white sauce.
_Bola-d'amour_, a very rich and expensive Spanish confection.
_Bolas_, a kind of rich cake or pudding.
_Cassereet_, a sauce prepared from the cassada, a West Indian
plant--it must be used with moderation.
_Casserole_, a name given to a crust formed of rice baked, and then
filled with mince, fricassee, or fruit.
_Chorissa_, a sausage peculiar to the Jewish kitchen, of delicate and
_piquante_ flavour.
_Consomme_, is a term now used for stock--it is a clear strong broth,
forming the basis of all soups, sauces, gravies, &c.
_Croquettes_ and _Risoles_; preparations of forcemeat, formed into
fancy shapes, and fried.
_Croutons_, sippets of bread or toast, to garnish hashes, salmis, &c.,
are so called.
_Doce_, a mixture of sugar with almonds _or_ cocoa-nut.
_Entrees_. These are side-dishes, for the first course, consisting
of cutlets, vol au vents, fricassees, fillets, sweetbreads, salmis,
scallops, &c., &c.
_Entremets_. These are side-dishes for the second course; they
comprise dressed vegetables, puddings, gateaux, pastries, fritters,
creams, jellies, timbales, &c.
_Farcie_, a French term for forcemeat; it is a mixture of savoury
ingredients, used for croquettes, balls, &c. Meat is by no means a
necessary ingredient, although the English word might seem to imply
the contrary.
_Fondeaux_, and Fondus, are savoury kinds of soufles.
_Fricandeaux_, a term for small well-trimmed pieces of meat, stewed in
various ways.
_Fricassee_. This is a name used for delicate stews, when the articles
are cut in pieces.
_Fricandelles_. These are very small fricandeaux, two or three of
which are served on one dish, and they sometimes also are delicate,
but highly-flavoured minces, formed into any approved shapes.
Flanks are large standing side-dishes.
_Gateaux_, is a kind of cake or pudding.
_Hors d'oeuvres._ These are light entrees in the first course; they
are sometimes called _assiettes_ volantes; they are handed during the
first course; they comprise anchovies, fish salads, patties of various
kinds, croquettes, risolles, maccaroni, &c.
_Maigre_, made without meat.
_Matso_, Passover cakes.
_Miroton_, a savoury preparation of veal or poultry, formed in a
mould.
_Nouilles_, a kind of vermicelli paste.
_Pique_, a French term used to express the process of larding. The
French term is a preferable one, as it more clearly indicates what is
meant.
_Puree_ is a term given to a preparation of meat or vegetables,
reduced to a pulp, and mixed with any kind of sauce, to the
consistency of thick cream. _Purees_ of vegetables are much used in
modern cookery, to serve with cutlets, callops, &c.
_Ramekin_, a savoury and delicate preparation of cheese, generally
served in fringed paper cases.
_Releves_, or _Removes_, are top and bottom dishes, which replace the
soup and fish.
_Salmis_, a hash, only a superior kind, being more delicately
seasoned, and usually made of cold poultry.
_Soufles_, a term applied to a very light kind of pudding, made
with some farinaceous substance, and generally replaces the roast of a
second course.
_Timbale_, a shape of maccaroni or rice made in a mould.
_Vol-au-vent_. This is a sort of case, made of very rich puff paste,
filled with delicate fricassee of fish, meat, or poultry, or richly
stewed fruits.
_Veloute_, an expensive white sauce.
OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK.
The receipts we have given are capable of being varied and modified by
an intelligent pains-taking cook, to suit the tastes of her employers.
Where _one_ receipt has been thought sufficient to convey the
necessary instruction for several dishes, &c., &c., it has not been
repeated for each respectively, which plan will tend to facilitate her
task.
We might, had we been inclined, have increased our collection
considerably by so doing, but have decided, from our own experience,
that it is preferable to give a limited number clearly and fully
explained, as these will always serve as guides and models for others
of the same kind.
The cook must remember it is not enough to have ascertained the
ingredients and quantities requisite, but great care and attention
must be paid to the manner of mixing them, and in watching their
progress when mixed and submitted to the fire.
The management of the oven and the fire deserve attention, and cannot
be regulated properly without practice and observation.
The art of seasoning is difficult and important.
Great judgment is required in blending the different spices or other
condiments, so that a fine flavour is produced without the undue
preponderance of either.
It is only in coarse cooking that the flavour of onions, pepper,
garlic, nutmeg, and eschalot is permitted to prevail. As a general
rule, salt should be used in moderation.
Sugar is an improvement in nearly all soups, sauces, and gravies; also
with stewed vegetables, but of course must be used with discretion.
Ketchups, Soy, Harvey's sauce, &c., are used too indiscrimately by
inferior cooks; it is better to leave them to be added at table by
those who approve of their flavour.
Any thing that is required to be warmed up a second time, should be
set in a basin placed in a _bain-marie_, or saucepan, filled with
boiling water, but which must not be allowed to boil; or the article
will become hardened and the sauce dried up.
To remove every particle of fat from the gravies of stews, &c., a
piece of white blotting-paper should be laid on the surface, and the
fat will adhere to it; this should be repeated two or three times.
It is important to keep saucepans well skimmed; the best prepared dish
will be spoiled by neglect on this point.
The difference between good and bad cookery is particularly
discernible in the preparation of forcemeats. A common cook is
satistified if she chops or minces the ingredients and moistens them
with an egg scarcely beaten, but this is a very crude and imperfect
method; they should be pounded together in a mortar until not a lump
or fibre is perceptible. Further directions will be given in the
proper place, but this is a rule which must be strictly attended to by
those who wish to attain any excellence in this branch of their art.
Eggs for forcemeats, and for every description of sweet dishes, should
be thoroughly beaten, and for the finer kinds should be passed through
a sieve.
A trustworthy zealous servant must keep in mind, that waste and
extravagance are no proofs of skill. On the contrary, GOOD COOKERY
is by no means expensive, as it makes the most of every thing, and
furnishes out of simple and economical materials, dishes which are at
once palatable and elegant.
CHAPTER I.
Soups.
STOCK OR CONSOMME.
This is the basis of all kinds of soup and sauces. Shin of beef or
ox-cheek make excellent stock, although good gravy-beef is sometimes
preferred; the bones should always be broken, and the meat cut up, as
the juices are better extracted; it is advisable to put on, at first,
but very little water, and to add more when the first quantity is
nearly dried up. The time required for boiling depends upon the
quantity of meat; six pounds of meat will take about five hours; if
bones, the same quantity will require double the time.
Gravy beef with a knuckle of veal makes a fine and nutritious stock;
the stock for white soups should be prepared with veal or white
poultry. Very tolerable stock can be procured without purchasing meat
expressly for the purpose, by boiling down bones and the trimmings of
meat or poultry.
The liquor in which beef or mutton intended for the table has been
boiled, will also, with small additions and skilful flavoring, make an
excellent soup at a trifling expense.
To thicken soups, mix a little potatoe-flour, ground rice, or pounded
vermicelli, in a little water, till perfectly smooth; add a little of
the soup to it in a cup, until sufficiently thin, then pour it into
the rest and boil it up, to prevent the raw taste it would otherwise
have; the presence of the above ingredients should not be discovered,
and judgment and care are therefore requisite.
If colouring is necessary, a crust of bread stewed in the stock will
give a fine brown, or the common browning may be used; it is made in
the following manner:
Put one pound of coarse brown sugar in a stew-pan with a lump of
clarified suet; when it begins to froth, pour in a wine-glass of port
wine, half an ounce of black pepper, a little mace, four spoonsful
of ketchup or Harvey's sauce, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon
grated; boil all together, let it grow cold, when it must be skimmed
and bottled for use.
It may also be prepared as required, by putting a small piece of
clarified fat with one ounce of coarse sugar, in an iron spoon,
melting them together, and stirring in a little ketchup and pepper.
When good stock or consomme is prepared, it is very easy to form it
into any kind of soup or sauce that may be required.
* * * * *
GRAVY SOUP.
Take about three quarts of any strong stock, seasoned with a bunch of
sweet herbs, a carrot, turnip, and a head of celery, which must not
be served in the soup. Vermicelli, maccaroni, or thin slices of carrot
and small sippets of fried bread cut in fancy shapes, are usually
served in this soup.
* * * * *
MOCK TURTLE.
Half boil a well-cleaned calf's head, then cut off all the meat in
small square pieces, and break the bones; return it to the stew-pan,
with some good stock made of beef and veal; dredge in flour, add fried
shalot, pepper, parsley, tarragon, a little mushroom ketchup, and a
pint of white wine; simmer gently until the meat is perfectly soft and
tender. Balls of force-meat, and egg-balls, should be put in a
short time before serving; the juice of a lemon is considered an
improvement.
* * * * *
MULIGATAWNY SOUP.
Take two chickens, cut them up small, as if for fricassee, flour
them well, put them in a saucepan with four onions shred, a piece of
clarified fat, pepper, salt, and two table spoonsful of curry powder;
let it simmer for an hour, then add three quarts of strong beef gravy,
and let it continue simmering for another hour; before sent to table
the juice of a lemon should be stirred in it; some persons approve of
a little rice being boiled with the stock, and a pinch of saffron is
also sometimes added.
* * * * *
ENGLISH MULIGATAWNY.
Take a knuckle of veal, stew it till half done, then cut off the
greatest part of the meat, and continue to stew down the bone in
the stock, the meat must be cut into small pieces and fried with six
onions thinly sliced, and a table spoonful of curry powder, a desert
spoonful of cayenne pepper and salt, add the stock and let the whole
gently simmer for nearly an hour, flavouring it with a little Harvey's
sauce and lemon pickle.
* * * * *
SOUP A LA JULIENNE.
Take a variety of vegetables: such as celery, carrots, turnips, leeks,
cauliflower, lettuce, and onions, cut them in shreds of small size,
place them in a stew-pan with a little fine salad oil, stew them
gently over the fire, adding weak broth from time to time; toast a
few slices of bread and cut them into pieces the size and shape of
shillings and crowns, soak them in the remainder of the broth, and
when the vegetables are well done add all together and let it simmer
for a few minutes; a lump of white sugar, with pepper and salt are
sufficient seasoning.
* * * * *
SOUPE A LA TURQUE.
Make a good gravy from shin of beef, and cut up very small various
sorts of vegetables of whatever may be in season, add spices, pepper,
and salt; when it is all stewed well down together, set it to cool and
take off the fat, then place it again on the fire to boil, and add to
two quarts of soup, one quarter of a pound of rice, beat two yolks of
eggs with a little of the stock, and when the rice is quite tender,
stir them into the soup, taking the precaution not to let the soup
boil, and to stir always the same way.
* * * * *
PEPPER POT.
Cut small pieces of any vegetables, and add pieces of smoked or salt
beef, and also of any cold poultry, roast beef or mutton, stew all
these together in two or three quarts of water, according to the
quantity of meat, &c. It must be seasoned highly with whole peppers,
allspice, mace, Jamaica pickles, and salt; it must be thoroughly
stewed, and served, without straining, in a tureen.
* * * * *
POTATOE SOUP.
Grate a pound of fine potatoes in two quarts of water, add to it the
trimmings of any meat, amounting to about a pound in quantity, a cup
of rice, a few sweet herbs, and a head of celery, stew well till the
liquor is considerably reduced, then strain it through a sieve; if,
when strained, it is too thin and watery, add a little thickening; it
should be flavoured only with white pepper and salt.
* * * * *
SOUP CRESSY.
Grate six carrots, and chop some onions with a lettuce, adding a few
sweet herbs, put them all into a stewpan, with enough of good broth
to moisten the whole, adding occasionally the remainder; when nearly
done, put in the crumb of a French roll, and when soaked, strain the
whole through a sieve, and serve hot in a tureen.
* * * * *
CARROT SOUP.
Take a dozen carrots scraped clean, rasp them, but do not use the
core, two heads of celery, two onions thinly sliced, season to taste,
and pour over a good stock, say about two quarts, boil it, then pass
it through a sieve; it should be of the thickness of cream, return it
to the saucepan, boil it up and squeeze in a little lemon juice, or
add a little vinegar.
* * * * *
PALESTINE SOUP.
Stew a knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot, and one pound of
_chorissa_, and a large fowl, in four quarts of water, add a piece of
fresh lemon peel, six Jerusalem artichokes, a bunch of sweet herbs,
a little salt and white pepper, and a little nutmeg, and a blade of
mace; when the fowl is thoroughly done, remove the white parts to
prepare for thickening, and let the rest continue stewing till the
stock is sufficiently strong, the white parts of the fowl must be
pounded and sprinkled with flower or ground rice, and stirred in the
soup after it has been strained, until it thickens.
* * * * *
A SIMPLE WHITE SOUP.
Break a knuckle of veal, place it in a stewpan, also a piece of
_chorissa_, a carrot, two onions, three or four turnips, and a blade
of mace, pour over two or three quarts of water or weak broth,
season with salt, a sprig of parsley, and whole white pepper; when
sufficiently boiled, skim and strain it, and thicken with pounded
vermicelli.
* * * * *
VERMICELLI SOUP.
Make a fine strong stock from the shin of beef, or any other part
preferred, and add, a short time before serving, a handful of
vermicelli, which should be broken, so that it may be in pieces of
convenient length, the stock should be more or less flavoured with
vegetables, and herbs, according to taste.
* * * * *
MATSO SOUP.
Boil down half a shin of beef, four pounds of gravy beef, and a calf's
foot may be added, if approved, in three or four quarts of water;
season with celery, carrots, turnips, pepper and salt, and a bunch of
sweet herbs; let the whole stew gently for eight hours, then strain
and let it stand to get cold, when the fat must be removed, then
return it to the saucepan to warm up. Ten minutes before serving,
throw in the balls, from which the soup takes its name, and which are
made in the following manner:
Take half a pound of _matso_ flour, two ounces of chopped suet, season
with a little pepper, salt, ginger, and nutmeg; mix with this, four
beaten eggs, and make it into a paste, a small onion shred and browned
in a desert spoonful of oil is sometimes added; the paste should be
made into rather large balls, and care should be taken to make them
very light.
* * * * *
TOMATA SOUP.
Take a dozen unpealed tomatas, with a bit of clarified suet, or a
little sweet oil, and a small Spanish onion; sprinkle with flour, and
season with salt and cayenne pepper, and boil them in a little gravy
or water; it must be stirred to prevent burning, then pass it through
a sieve, and thin it with rich stock to the consistency of winter
pea-soup; flavour it with lemon juice, according to taste, after it
has been warmed up and ready for serving.
* * * * *
ALMONDEGOS SOUP: A SUPERIOR WHITE SOUP.
Put a knuckle of veal and a calf's foot into two quarts of water, with
a blade of mace and a bunch of sweet herbs, a turnip, a little white
pepper, and salt; when sufficiently done, strain and skim it, and
add balls of forced meat, and egg balls. A quarter of an hour before
serving beat up the yolks of four eggs with a desert spoonful of lemon
juice, and three ounces of sweet almonds blanched and beaten with a
spoonful of powdered white sugar. This mixture is to be stirred into
the soup till it thickens, taking care to prevent its curdling.
* * * * *
A FINE VEGETABLE OR FRENCH SOUP.
Take two quarts of strong stock made of gravy beef, add to this,
carrots, turnips, leek, celery, brocoli, peas and French beans, all
cut as small as possible, add a few lumps of white sugar, pepper, and
salt, let it simmer till the vegetables are perfectly soft, and throw
in a few force-meat balls.
* * * * *
ASPARAGUS SOUP.
Take eight pounds of gravy beef, with five pints of water, a few sweet
herbs, and an onion shred, with a little pepper and salt; when the
strength of the meat is sufficiently extracted, strain off the soup,
and add to it a bundle of asparagus, cut small, with a little chopped
parsley and mint; the asparagus should be thoroughly done. A few
minutes before serving, throw in some fried bread cut up the size
of dice; pound a little spinach to a pulp, and squeeze it through a
cloth, stir about a tea-cup full of this essence into the soup, let it
boil up after to prevent a raw taste.
* * * * *
SOUP MAIGRE.
Chop three lettuces, a large handful of spinach, a little chervil, a
head of celery, two or three carrots, and four onions, put them on
the fire with half a pound of butter, and let them fry till slightly
browned, season with a little salt, sifted white sugar, and white
pepper, stew all gently in five pints of boiling water for about two
hours and a half, and just before serving the soup, thicken it with
the beaten yolks of four eggs, mixed first with a little of the soup,
and then stirred into the remainder.
* * * * *
SUMMER PEA SOUP.
Take a peck of peas, separate the old from the young, boil the former
till they are quite tender in good stock, then pass them through a
sieve, and return them to the stock, add the young peas, a little
chopped lettuce, small pieces of cucumber fried to a light brown, a
little bit of mint, pepper, and salt; two or three lumps of sugar give
a fine flavor.
* * * * *
WINTER PEA SOUP.
Soak a quart of white peas in water, boil them till soft, in as much
water as will cover them, pass them through a sieve, and add them to
any broth that may be ready, a little piece of _chorissa_ or smoked
beef will improve the flavour; this soup should be served with mint
and fried bread.
* * * * *
GIBLET SOUP.
Add to a fine strong well-seasoned beef stock, of about three quarts,
two sets of giblets, which should be previously stewed separately in
one quart of water (the gizzards require scalding for some time before
they are put in with the rest); white pepper, salt, and the rind of
lemon should season them; when they are tender, add them with their
gravy to the stock, and boil for about ten minutes together, then stir
in a glass of white wine, a table spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and
the juice of half a lemon; it will require to be thickened with a
little flour browned; the giblets are served in the soup.
* * * * *
BARLEY SOUP.
Put in a stew-pan, a knuckle of mutton, or four pounds of the neck,
with three quarts of water, boil it gently and keep it well skimmed;
a sprig of parsley, a couple of sliced turnips, a carrot, an onion or
more, if approved, with a little white pepper and salt, are sufficient
seasoning, a breakfast cup full of barley should be scalded and put in
the stew-pan with the meat, if when done, the soup is thin and watery,
a little prepared barley, mixed smoothly, should be stirred in.
* * * * *
SOUP DE POISSON, OR FISH SOUP.
Make a good stock, by simmering a cod's-head in water, enough to cover
the fish; season it with pepper and salt, mace, celery, parsley, and
a few sweet herbs, with two or three onions, when sufficiently done,
strain it, and add cutlets of fish prepared in the following manner:
cut very small, well-trimmed cutlets from any fish, sole or brill are
perhaps best suited; stew them in equal quantities of water and wine,
but not more than will cover them, with a large lump of butter, and
the juice of a lemon; when they have stewed gently for about fifteen
or twenty minutes, add them to the soup, which thicken with cream and
flour, serve the soup with the cutlets in a tureen; force-meat balls
of cod's liver are sometimes added.
* * * * *
OX TAIL SOUP.
Have two well cleaned tails and a neat's foot, cut them in small
joints and soak them in water, put them in a stew-pan with a large
piece of clarified suet or fat, and let them simmer for ten minutes,
then put to them between three and four quarts of cold water, four
onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a carrot, a turnip, a head of celery,
and season with whole pepper, allspice, two or three cloves, and salt;
let it stew till the meat is tender enough to leave the bones, then
remove it from them, as the bones are unsightly in the soup; thicken
if necessary with browned flour, and just before serving, add a glass
or more of port wine, and a little mushroom ketchup.
CHAPTER II.
Sauces.
A RICH BROWN GRAVY.
Take a little good beef consomme, or stock, a small piece of smoked
beef, or _chorissa_, a lemon sliced, some chopped shalots, a couple
of onions shred, a bay leaf, two or three cloves, and a little oil;
simmer gently, and add a little minced parsley, and a few chopped
mushrooms: skim and strain.
* * * * *
SAUCE PIQUANTE.
The above may be rendered a Sauce Piquante by substituting a little
vinegar, whole capers, allspice, and thyme, instead of the smoked
beef and lemon; a few onions and piccalilli chopped finely, is a great
addition when required to be very piquante.
A sauce like the above is very good to serve with beef that has been
boiled for broth.
* * * * *
A GOOD GRAVY FOR ROAST FOWLS.
Take a little stock, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add a little
mushroom powder, cayenne pepper and salt; thicken with flour.
* * * * *
ANOTHER EXCELLENT RECEIPT.
Chop some mushrooms, young and fresh, salt them, and put them into a
saucepan with a little gravy, made of the trimmings of the fowl, or
of veal, a blade of mace, a little grated lemon peel, the juice of
one lemon; thicken with flour, and when ready to serve, stir in a
table-spoonful of white wine.
* * * * *
EGG SAUCE: A FINE WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKENS, TURKEYS, OR WHITE
FRICASSEES.
Beat up the yolks of four eggs with the juice of a fine lemon, a
tea-spoonful of flour, and a little cold water, mix well together, and
set it on the fire to thicken, stirring it to prevent curdling. This
sauce will be found excellent, if not superior, in many cases where
English cooks use melted butter. If capers are substituted for the
lemon juice, this sauce will be found excellent for boiled lamb or
mutton.
* * * * *
CELERY SAUCE.
Cut in small pieces from about four to five heads of celery, which if
not very young must be peeled, simmer it till tender in half a pint of
veal gravy, if intended for white sauce, then add a spoonful of flour,
the yolks of three eggs, white pepper, salt, and the juice of one
lemon, these should be previously mixed together with a little water
till perfectly smooth and thin, and be stirred in with the sauce;
cream, instead of eggs, is used in English kitchens.
* * * * *
TOMATO SAUCE.
Skin a dozen fine tomatos, set them on the fire in a little water
or gravy, beat them up with a little vinegar, lemon juice, cayenne
pepper, and salt; some persons like the yolk of an egg, well beaten
added. Strain or not, as may be preferred.
* * * * *
GRAVY FOR A FOWL, WHEN THERE IS NO STOCK TO MAKE IT WITH.
Take the feet, wash them, cut them small, also the neck and gizzard;
season them with pepper and salt, onion, and parsley, let them simmer
gently for some time, in about a breakfast-cup of water, then strain,
thicken with flour, and add a little browning, and if liked, a small
quantity of any store sauce at hand, and it will prove an excellent
sauce.
* * * * *
SAVOURY JELLY, FOR COLD PIES, OR TO GARNISH COLD POULTRY.
Have a bare knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot or cow heel; put it
into a stew-pan with a thick slice of smoked beef, a few herbs, a
blade of mace, two or three onions, a little lemon peel, pepper
and salt, and three or four pints of water (the French add a little
tarragon vinegar). When it boils skim it, and when cold, if not clear,
boil it a few minutes with the white and shell of an egg, and pass it
through a jelly bag, this jelly with the juice of two or three lemons,
and poured into a mould, in which are put the yolks of eggs boiled
hard, forms a pretty supper dish.
* * * * *
A FINE SAUCE FOR STEAKS.
Throw into a saucepan a piece of fat the size of an egg, with two
or three onions sliced, let them brown; add a little gravy, flour, a
little vinegar, a spoonful of mustard, and a little cayenne pepper,
boil it and serve with the steaks.
* * * * *
A FISH SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER.
Put on, in a small saucepan, a cup of water, well flavored with
vinegar, an onion chopped fine, a little rasped horse-radish, pepper,
and two or three cloves, and a couple of anchovies cut small, when it
has boiled, stir carefully in the beaten yolks of two eggs, and let it
thicken, until of the consistency of melted butter.
* * * * *
A FINE FISH SAUCE.
One teacup full of walnut pickle, the same of mushroom ditto, three
anchovies pounded, one clove of garlic pounded, half a tea-spoonful of
cayenne pepper, all mixed well together, and bottled for use.
* * * * *
A NICE SAUCE TO THROW OVER BROILED MEATS.
Beat up a little salad-oil with a table-spoonful of vinegar, mustard,
pepper and salt, and then stir in the yolk of an egg; this sauce
should be highly seasoned. A sauce of this description is sometimes
used to baste mutton while roasting, the meat should be scored in
different places to allow the sauce to penetrate.
* * * * *
SAUCE FOR DUCKS.
A little good gravy, with a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon,
highly seasoned with cayenne pepper.
* * * * *
BREAD SAUCE.
Take a large onion and boil it, with a little pepper till quite soft,
in milk, then take it out, and pour the milk over grated stale bread,
then boil it up with a piece of butter, and dredge it with flour; it
should be well beaten up with a silver fork.
The above can be made without butter or milk: take a large onion,
slice it thin, put it into a little veal gravy, add grated bread,
pepper, &c., and the yolk and white of an egg well beaten.
* * * * *
APPLE SAUCE FOR GOOSE.
Slice some apples, put them in a little water to simmer till soft,
beat them to a pulp; some consider a little powdered sugar an
improvement, but as the acid of the apples is reckoned a corrective to
the richness of the goose, it is usually preferred without.
* * * * *
MINT SAUCE.
Mix vinegar with brown sugar, let it stand about an hour, then add
chopped mint, and stir together.
* * * * *
ONION SAUCE.
Slice finely, and brown in a little oil, two or three onions; put them
in a little beef gravy, and add cayenne pepper, salt, and the juice of
a lemon. This is a nice sauce for steaks.
* * * * *
OILED BUTTER.
Put some good butter into a cup or jar, and place it before the fire
till it becomes an oil, then pour it off, so that all sediment may be
avoided.
* * * * *
TO DRAW GOOD GRAVY.
* * * * *
Cut some gravy beef into small pieces, put them in a jar, and set it
in a saucepan of cold water to boil gently for seven or eight hours,
adding, from time to time, more water as the original quantity boils
away. The gravy thus made will be the essence of the meat, and in
cases where nutriment is required in the smallest compass, will be
of great service. Soups are stronger when the meat is cut, and gravy
drawn before water is added.
* * * * *
TRUFFLE SAUCE.
Peel and slice as many truffles as required, simmer them gently with
a little butter, when they are tender, add to them good white or brown
consomme, lemon juice, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a very little white
wine.
* * * * *
MUSHROOM SAUCE.
Take about a pint of fine young button mushrooms, let them stew gently
in a white veal gravy seasoned with salt, pepper, a blade of mace, and
if approved, the grated peel of half a lemon, it should be thickened
with flour and the yolk of an egg stirred in it, just before serving;
English cooks add cream to this sauce.
* * * * *
SWEET SAUCE.
The usual way of making sauces for puddings, is by adding sugar
to melted butter, or thin egg sauce, flavoring it with white wine,
brandy, lemon peel, or any other flavor approved of.
* * * * *
MELTED BUTTER.
Although this sauce is one of the most simple, it is very rarely that
it is well made. Mix with four ounces of butter, a desert spoonful
of flour, when well mixed, add three table spoonsful of water, put it
into a clean saucepan kept for the purpose, and stir it carefully
one way till it boils; white sauce to throw over vegetables served on
toast, is made in the same way, only putting milk and water, instead
of water only.
* * * * *
SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER FOR BOILED PUDDINGS.
Mix a table-spoonful of flour, with two of water, add a little wine,
lemon peel grated, a small bit of clarified suet, of the size of a
walnut, grated nutmeg, and sugar, put on in a saucepan, stirring one
way, and adding water if too thick, lemon juice, or essence of noyeau,
or almonds may be substituted to vary the flavour.
* * * * *
SAUCE ROBERT FOR STEAKS.
Chop up some onions, throw them into a saucepan with a bit of
clarified fat, let them fry till brown, then add pepper, salt, a
little gravy, mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar; boil it all, and pour
over the steaks.
* * * * *
CAPER SAUCE.
This is merely melted butter with a few pickled capers simmered in it,
or they may be put into a sauce made of broth thickened with egg, and
a little flour.
* * * * *
SAVORY HERB POWDER.
It is useful to select a variety of herbs, so that they may always
be at hand for use: the following are considered to be an excellent
selection, parsley, savory, thyme, sweet majoram, shalot, chervil, and
sage, in equal quantities; dry these in the oven, pound them finely
and keep them in bottles well stopped.
* * * * *
SEASONING FOR DUCKS AND GEESE.
Mix chopped onion with an equal quantity of chopped sage, three times
as much grated stale bread, a little shred suet, pepper, salt, and a
beaten egg to bind it, this is generally used for geese and ducks, the
onions are sometimes boiled first to render them less strong.
* * * * *
ENGLISH EGG SAUCE.
Boil two eggs hard, chop them finely, and warm them up in finely made
melted butter, add a little white pepper, salt, a blade of mace, and a
very small quantity of nutmeg.
* * * * *
SAUCE A LA TARTARE.
Mix the yolk of an egg with oil, vinegar, chopped parsley, mustard,
pepper, and salt; a spoonful of pate de diable or French mustard,
renders the sauce more piquante.
* * * * *
A FINE SAUCE FOR ROAST MUTTON.
Mix a little port wine in some gravy, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar,
one of oil, a shalot minced, and a spoonful of mustard, just before
the mutton is served, pour the sauce over it, then sprinkle it with
fried bread crumbs, and then again baste the meat with the sauce; this
is a fine addition to the mutton.
* * * * *
ASPARAGUS SAUCE, TO SERVE WITH LAMB CHOPS.
Cut some asparagus, or sprew, into half inch lengths, wash them, and
throw them into half a pint of gravy made from beef, veal, or mutton
thickened, and seasoned with salt, white pepper, and a lump of white
sugar, the chops should be delicately fried and the sauce served in
the centre of the dish.
* * * * *
BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE.
Peel and cut in thick slices, one or more fresh cucumbers, fry them
until brown in a little butter, or clarified fat, then add to them
a little strong beef gravy, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of vinegar;
some cooks add a chopped onion browned with the cucumbers.
* * * * *
WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE.
Take out the seeds of some fresh young cucumbers, quarter them, and
cut them into pieces of two inch lengths, let them lay for an hour in
vinegar and water, then simmer them till thoroughly soft, in a veal
broth seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice; when ready
for serving, pour off the gravy and thicken it with the yolks of a
couple of eggs stirred in, add it to the saucepan; warm up, taking
care that it does not curdle.
* * * * *
BROWNED FLOUR FOR MAKING SOUPS AND GRAVIES DARK AND THICK.
Spread flour on a tin, and place it in a Dutch oven before the fire,
or in a gentle oven till it browns; it must often be turned, that the
flour may be equally coloured throughout. A small quantity of this
prepared and laid by for use, will be found useful.
* * * * *
BROWNED BREAD CRUMBS.
Grate into fine crumbs, about five or six ounces of stale bread,
and brown them in a gentle oven or before the fire; this is a more
delicate way of browning them than by frying.
* * * * *
CRISPED PARSLEY.
Wash and drain a handful of fresh young sprigs of parsley, dry
them with a cloth, place them before the fire on a dish, turn them
frequently, and they will be perfectly crisp in ten minutes.
* * * * *
FRIED PARSLEY.
When the parsley is prepared as above, fry it in butter or clarified
suet, then drain it on a cloth placed before the fire.
* * * * *
BREAD CRUMBS FOR FRYING.
Cut slices of bread without crust, and dry them gradually in a cool
oven till quite dry and crisp, then roll them into fine crumbs, and
put them in a jar for use.
* * * * *
SPINACH GREEN.
Pound to a pulp in a mortar a handful of spinach, and squeeze it
through a hair sieve; then put it into a cup or jar, and place it in
a basin of hot water for a few minutes, or it may be allowed to simmer
on the fire; a little of this stirred into spring soups, improve their
appearance.
* * * * *
VELOUTE, BECHAMEL.
These preparations are so frequently mentioned in modern cookery, that
we shall give the receipts for them, although they are not appropriate
for the Jewish kitchen. Veloute is a fine white sauce, made by
reducing a certain quantity of well-flavoured consomme or stock,
over a charcoal fire, and mixing it with boiling cream, stirring it
carefully till it thickens.
Bechamel is another sort of fine white stock, thickened with cream,
there is more flavouring in this than the former, the stock is made of
veal, with some of the smoked meats used in English kitchens, butter,
mace, onion, mushrooms, bay leaf, nutmeg, and a little salt. An
excellent substitute for these sauces can in Jewish kitchens be made
in the following way:
Take some veal broth flavored with smoked beef, and the above named
seasonings, then beat up two or three yolks of eggs, with a little of
the stock and a spoonful of potatoe flour, stir this into the
broth, until it thickens, it will not be quite as white, but will be
excellent.
* * * * *
FORCEMEAT OR FARCIE.
Under this head is included the various preparations used for balls,
tisoles, fritters, and stuffings for poultry and veal, it is a branch
of cooking which requires great care and judgment, the proportions
should be so blended as to produce a delicate, yet savoury flavor,
without allowing any particular herb or spice to predominate.
The ingredients should always be pounded well together in a mortar,
not merely chopped and moistened with egg, as is usually done by
inexperienced cooks; forcemeat can be served in a variety of forms,
and is so useful a resource, that it well repays the attention it
requires.
* * * * *
A SUPERIOR FORCEMEAT FOR RISOLLES, FRITTERS, AND SAVORY MEAT BALLS.
Scrape half a pound of the fat of smoked beef, and a pound of lean
veal, free from skin, vein, or sinew, pound it finely in a mortar
with chopped mushrooms, a little minced parsley, salt and pepper,
and grated lemon peel, then have ready the crumb of two French rolls
soaked in good gravy, press out the moisture, and add the crumb to the
meat with three beaten eggs; if the forcemeat is required to be very
highly flavored, the gravy in which the rolls are soaked should be
seasoned with mushroom powder; a spoonful of ketchup, a bay leaf, an
onion, pepper, salt, and lemon juice, add this panada to the pounded
meat and eggs, form the mixture into any form required, and either fry
or warm in gravy, according to the dish for which it is intended.
Any cold meats pounded, seasoned, and made according to the above
method are excellent; the seasoning can be varied, or rendered simpler
if required.
* * * * *
COMMON VEAL, STUFFING.
Have equal quantities of finely shred suet and grated crumbs of bread,
add chopped sweet herbs, grated lemon peel, pepper, and salt, pound it
in a mortar; this is also used for white poultry, with the addition
of a little grated smoked beef, or a piece of the root of a tongue
pounded and mixed with the above ingredients.
* * * * *
FISH FORCEMEAT.
Chop finely any kind of fish, that which has been already dressed
will answer the purpose, then pound it in a mortar with a couple of
anchovies, or a little anchovy essence, the yolk of a hard boiled
egg, a little butter, parsley or any other herb which may be approved,
grated lemon peel, and a little of the juice, then add a little bread
previously soaked, and mix the whole into a paste, and form into
balls, or use for stuffing, &c.
The liver or roe of fish is well suited to add to the fish, as it is
rich and delicate.
* * * * *
FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING FISH FILLETS.
Pound finely anchovies, grated bread, chopped parsley, and the yolk of
a hard boiled egg, add grated lemon peel, a little lemon juice, pepper
and salt, and make into a paste with two eggs.
* * * * *
FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING CUTLETS, ETC.
Add to grated stale bread, an equal quantity of chopped parsley,
season it well, and mix it with clarified suet, then brush the cutlets
with beaten yolks of eggs, lay on the mixture thickly with a knife,
and sprinkle over with dry and fine bread crumbs.
* * * * *
EGG BALLS.
Beat the hard yolks of eggs in a mortar, make it into a paste with
the yolk of a raw egg, form the paste into very small balls, and throw
them into boiling water for a minute or so, to harden them.
* * * * *
PREPARATION FOR CUTLETS OF FOWL OR VEAL.
Make a smooth batter of flour, and a little salad oil, and two eggs,
a little white pepper, salt, and nutmeg, turn the cutlets well in
this mixture, and fry a light brown, garnish with slices of lemon,
and crisped parsley, this is done by putting in the parsley after the
cutlets have been fried, it will speedily crisp; it should then be
drained, to prevent its being greasy.
CHAPTER III.
Fish.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
When fish is to be boiled, it should be rubbed lightly over with salt,
and set on the fire in a saucepan or fish-kettle sufficiently large,
in hard cold water, with a little salt, a spoonful or two of vinegar
is sometimes added, which has the effect of increasing its firmness.
Fish for broiling should be rubbed over with vinegar, well dried in
a cloth and floured. The fire must be clear and free from smoke, the
gridiron made quite hot, and the bars buttered before the fish is put
on it. Fish to be fried should be rubbed in with salt, dried, rolled
in a cloth, and placed for a few minutes before the fire previous to
being put in the pan.
* * * * *
FISH FRIED IN OIL.
Soles, plaice, or salmon, are the best kinds of fish to dress in
this manner, although various other sorts are frequently used. When
prepared by salting or drying, as above directed, have a dish ready
with beaten eggs, turn the fish well over in them, and sprinkle it
freely with flour, so that the fish may be covered entirely with it,
then place it in a pan with a good quantity of the best frying oil at
boiling heat; fry the fish in it gently, till of a fine equal brown
colour, when done, it should be placed on a cloth before the fire
for the oil to drain off; great care should be observed that the oil
should have ceased to bubble when the fish is put in, otherwise it
will be greasy; the oil will serve for two or three times if strained
off and poured into a jar. Fish prepared in this way is usually served
cold.
* * * * *
FRIED SOLES IN THE ENGLISH WAY.
Prepare the soles as directed in the last receipt, brush them over
with egg, dredge them with stale bread crumbs, and fry in boiling
butter; this method is preferable when required to be served hot.
* * * * *
ESCOBECHE.
Take some cold fried fish, place it in a deep pan, then boil half a
pint of vinegar with two table spoonsful of water, and one of oil,
a little grated ginger, allspice, cayenne pepper, two bay leaves, a
little salt, and a table spoonful of lemon juice, with sliced onions;
when boiling, pour it over the fish, cover the pan, and let it stand
twenty-four hours before serving.
* * * * *
FISH STEWED WHITE.
Put an onion, finely chopped, into a stew-pan, with a little oil, till
the onion becomes brown, then add half a pint of water, and place
the fish in the stew-pan, seasoning with pepper, salt, mace, ground
allspice, nutmeg, and ginger; let it stew gently till the fish is
done, then prepare the beaten yolks of four eggs, with the juice of
two lemons, and a tea spoonful of flour, a table spoonful of cold
water, and a little saffron, mix well in a cup, and pour it into
the stew-pan, stirring it carefully one way until it thickens. Balls
should be thrown in about twenty minutes before serving; they are made
in the following way: take a little of the fish, the liver, and roe,
if there is any, beat it up finely with chopped parsley, and spread
warmed butter, crumbs of bread, and seasoning according to taste;
form this into a paste with eggs, and make it into balls of a moderate
size; this is a very nice dish when cold; garnish with sliced lemon
and parsley.
* * * * *
AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWED FISH IN THE DUTCH FASHION.
Take three or four parsley roots, cut them into pieces, slice several
onions and boil in a pint of water till tender, season with lemon
juice, vinegar, saffron, pepper, salt, and mace, then add the fish,
and let it stew till nearly finished, when remove it, and thicken the
gravy with a little flour and butter, and the yolk of one egg, then
return the fish to the stew-pan, with balls made as directed in the
preceding receipt, and boil up.
* * * * *
FISH STEWED BROWN.
Fry some fish of a light brown, either soles, slices of salmon,
halibut, or plaice, let an onion brown in a little oil, add to it a
cup of water, a little mushroom ketchup or powder, cayenne pepper,
salt, nutmeg, and lemon juice, put the fish into a stew-pan with the
above mixture, and simmer gently till done, then take out the fish and
thicken the gravy with a little browned flour, and stir in a glass of
port wine; a few truffles, or mushrooms, are an improvement.
* * * * *
WATER SOUCHY.
Take a portion of the fish intended to be dressed, and stew it down
with three pints of water, parsley roots, and chopped parsley, and
then pulp them through a sieve, then add the rest of the fish, with
pepper, salt, and seasoning; and serve in a deep dish.
* * * * *
A SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR STEWED CARP.
Clean the fish thoroughly, put it into a saucepan, with a strong rich
gravy, season with onion, parsley roots, allspice, nutmegs, beaten
cloves, and ginger, let it stew very gently till nearly done, then
mix port wine and vinegar in equal quantities, coarse brown sugar and
lemon juice, a little flour, with some of the gravy from the saucepan,
mix well and pour over the fish, let it boil till the gravy thickens.
Pike is excellent stewed in this manner.
* * * * *
FILLETS OF FISH.
Fillets of salmon, soles, &c., fried of a delicate brown according to
the receipt already given, and served with a fine gravy is a very nice
dish.
If required to be very savory, make a fish force-meat, and lay it
thickly on the fish before frying; fillets dressed in this way are
usually arranged round the dish, and served with a sauce made of good
stock, thickened and seasoned with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and
mushroom essence; piccalilli are sometimes added cut small.
* * * * *
BAKED HADDOCK.
Carefully clean a fresh haddock, and fill it with a fine forcemeat,
and sew it in securely; give the fish a dredging of flour, and pour on
warmed butter, sprinkle it with pepper and salt, and set it to bake
in a Dutch-oven before the fire, basting it, from time to time, with
butter warmed, and capers; it should be of a rich dark brown, and it
is as well to dredge two or three times with flour while at the fire,
the continual bastings will produce sufficient sauce to serve with it
without any other being added.
Mackarel and whiting prepared in this manner are excellent, the latter
should be covered with a layer of bread crumbs, and arranged in a
ring, and the forcemeat, instead of stuffing them, should be formed
into small balls, and served in the dish as a garnish.
The forcemeat must be made as for veal stuffing, with the addition of
a couple of minced anchovies, cayenne pepper, and butter instead of
suet.
* * * * *
A NICE WAY OF DRESSING RED HERRINGS.
Open them, cut off the tails and heads, soak them in hot water for an
hour, then wipe them dry; mix with warmed butter one beaten egg, pour
this over the herrings, sprinkle with bread crumbs, flour, and white
pepper, broil them and serve them very hot.
* * * * *
BAKED MACKAREL WITH VINEGAR.
Cut off the heads and tails, open and clean them, lay them in a
deep pan with a few bay leaves, whole pepper, half a tea-spoonful of
cloves, and a whole spoonful of allspice, pour over equal quantities
of vinegar and water, and bake for an hour and a half, in a gentle
oven; herrings and sprats are also dressed according to this receipt.
* * * * *
FISH SALAD.
Cut in small pieces any cold dressed fish, turbot or salmon are the
best suited; mix it with half a pint of small salad, and a lettuce
cut small, two onions boiled till tender and mild, and a few truffles
thinly sliced; pour over a fine salad mixture, and arrange it into a
shape, high in the centre, and garnish with hard eggs cut in slices;
a little cucumber mixed with the salad is an improvement. The mixture
may either be a common salad mixture, or made as follows: take the
yolks of three hard boiled eggs, with a spoonful of mustard, and a
little salt, mix these with a cup of cream, and four table-spoonsful
of vinegar, the different ingredients should be added carefully and
worked together smoothly, the whites of the eggs may be trimmed and
placed in small heaps round the dish as a garnish.
* * * * *
IMPANADA.
Cut in small pieces halibut, plaice, or soles, place them in a deep
dish in alternate layers, with slices of potatoes and dumplings made
of short-crust paste, sweetened with brown sugar, season well with
small pickles, peppers, gerkins, or West India pickles; throw over a
little water and butter warmed, and bake it thoroughly.
* * * * *
WHITE BAIT.
This is such a delicate fish that there are few cooks who attempt to
dress it without spoiling it; they should not be touched but thrown
from the dish into a cloth with a handful of flour; shake them
lightly, but enough to cover them well with the flour, then turn them
into a sieve expressly for bait to free them from too great a quantity
of the flour, then throw the fish into a pan with plenty of boiling
butter, they must remain but an instant, for they are considered
spoilt if they become the least brown; they should be placed lightly
on the dish piled up high in the centre, brown bread and butter is
always served with them; when devilled they are also excellent, and
are permitted to become brown; they are then sprinkled with cayenne
pepper, and a little salt, and served with lemon juice.
This receipt was given by a cook who dressed white bait to perfection.
* * * * *
A DUTCH FRICANDELLE.
Take two pounds of dressed fish, remove the skin and bones, cut in
small pieces with two or three anchovies, and season well, soak the
crumb of a French roll in milk, beat it up with the fish and three
eggs: butter a mould, sprinkle it with raspings, place in the fish
and bake it; when done, turn out and serve either dry or with
anchovy sauce; if served dry, finely grated crumbs of bread should be
sprinkled thickly over it, and it should be placed for a few minutes
before the fire to brown.
* * * * *
FISH FRITTERS.
Make a force-meat of any cold fish, form it into thin cakes, and fry
of a light brown, or enclose them first in thin paste and then fry
them. The roes of fish or the livers are particularly nice prepared in
this way.
* * * * *
FISH OMELET.
Shred finely any cold fish, season it, and mix with beaten eggs; make
it into a paste, fry in thin cakes like pancakes, and serve hot on a
napkin; there should be plenty of boiling butter in the pan, as they
should be moist and rich; there should be more eggs in the preparation
for omelets than for fritters.
* * * * *
SCALLOPED FISH.
Take any dressed fish, break it in small pieces, put it into tin
scallops, with a few crumbs of bread, a good piece of butter, a little
cream if approved, white pepper, salt, and nutmeg; bake in an oven for
ten minutes, or brown before the fire; two or three mushrooms mixed,
or an anchovy will be found an improvement.
* * * * *
ANOTHER WAY.
Break the fish into pieces, pour over the beaten yolk of an egg,
sprinkle with pepper and salt, strew with bread crumbs, chopped
parsley, and grated lemon peel, and squeeze in the juice of lemon,
drop over a little warmed butter, and brown before the fire.
CHAPTER IV.
Directions for Various Ways of Dressing Meat and Poultry.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
Boiling is the most simple manner of cooking, the great art in
this process is to boil the article sufficiently, without its being
overdone, the necessity of slow boiling cannot be too strongly
impressed upon the cook, as the contrary, renders it hard and of a bad
color; the average time of boiling for fresh meat is half an hour to
every pound, salt meat requires half as long again, and smoked meat
still longer; the lid of the saucepan should only be removed for
skimming, which is an essential process.
Roasting chiefly depends on the skilful management of the fire, it is
considered that a joint of eight pounds requires two hours roasting;
when first put down it should be basted with fresh dripping, and
afterwards with its own dripping, it should be sprinkled with salt,
and repeatedly dredged with flour, which browns and makes it look rich
and frothy.
Broiling requires a steady clear fire, free from flame and smoke, the
gridiron should be quite hot before the article is placed on it, and
the bars should be rubbed with fat, or if the article is thin-skinned
and delicate, with chalk; the gridiron should be held aslant to
prevent the fat dripping into the fire; the bars of a gridiron should
be close and fine. Frying is easier than broiling, the fat, oil or
butter in which the article is fried must be boiling, but have ceased
to bubble before it is put in the pan, or it will be greasy and black:
there is now a new description of fryingpan, called a saute pan, and
which will be found extremely convenient for frying small cutlets or
collops.
Stewing is a more elaborate mode of boiling; a gentle heat with
frequent skimmings, are the points to be observed.
Glazing is done by brushing melted jelly over the article to be glazed
and letting it cool, and then adding another coat, or in some cases
two or three, this makes any cold meats or poultry have an elegant
appearance.
Blanching makes the article plump and white. It should be set on the
fire in cold water, boil up and then be immersed in cold water,
where it should remain some little time. Larding (the French term is
_Pique_, which the inexperienced Jewish cook may not be acquainted
with, we therefore use the term in common use) is a term given to
a certain mode of garnishing the surface of meat or poultry: it
is inserting small pieces of the fat of smoked meats, truffles, or
tongue, which are trimmed into slips of equal length and size, into
the flesh of the article at regular distances, and is effected by
means of larding pins.
Poelee and Blanc, are terms used in modern cookery for a very
expensive mode of stewing: it is done by stewing the article with
meat, vegetables, and fat of smoked meats, all well seasoned; instead
of placing it to stew in water it is placed on slices of meat covered
with slices of fat and the vegetables and seasoning added, then water
enough to cover the whole is added.
Blanc differs from Poelee, in having a quantity of suet added, and
being boiled down before the article is placed to stew in it.
Braising is a similar process to Poelee, but less meat and vegetable
is used.
* * * * *
TO CLARIFY SUET.
Melt down with care fine fresh suet, either beef or veal, put it into
a jar, and set it in a stew-pan of water to boil, putting in a sprig
of rosemary, or a little orange flower water while melting, this is
a very useful preparation and will be found, if adopted in English
kitchens, to answer the purpose of lard and is far more delicate and
wholesome: it should be well beaten till quite light with a wooden
fork.
* * * * *
OLIO.
Put eight pounds of beef in sufficient water to cover it, when the
water boils take out the meat, skim off the fat, and then return the
meat to the stew-pan, adding at the same time two fine white cabbages
without any of the stalk or hard parts; season with pepper, salt, and
a tea-spoonful of white sugar, let it simmer on a slow fire for
about five hours, about an hour before serving, add half a pound of
_chorisa_, which greatly improves the flavor.
* * * * *
AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWING A RUMP OF BEEF.
Chop fine a large onion, four bay leaves, and a little parsley, add to
these half an ounce of ground ginger, a tea-spoonful of salt, a blade
of mace, a little ground allspice, some lemon sliced, and some of the
peel grated; rub all these ingredients well into the meat, then place
it into a stew-pan with three parts of a cup of vinegar, a calf's-foot
cut in small pieces and a pint of water, stew gently till tender,
when the fat must be carefully skimmed off the gravy, which must be
strained and poured over the meat.
* * * * *
ALAMODE BEEF, OR SOUR MEAT.
Cover a piece of the ribs of beef boned and filletted, or a piece of
the round with vinegar diluted with water, season with onions, pepper,
salt, whole allspice, and three or four bay leaves, add a cup full
of raspings, and let the whole stew gently for three or four hours,
according to the weight of the meat; this dish is excellent when cold.
A rump steak stewed in the same way will be found exceedingly fine.
* * * * *
KIMMEL MEAT.
Place a small piece of the rump of beef, or the under cut of a sirloin
in a deep pan with three pints of vinegar, two ounces of carraway
seeds tied in a muslin bag, salt, pepper, and spices, cover it down
tight, and bake thoroughly in a slow oven. This is a fine relish for
luncheons.
* * * * *
BEEF AND BEANS.
Take a piece of brisket of beef, cover it with water, when boiling
skim off the fat, add one quarter of French beans cut small, two
onions cut in quarters, season with pepper and salt, and when nearly
done take a dessert-spoonful of flour, one of coarse brown sugar, and
a large tea-cup full of vinegar, mix them together and stir in with
the beans, and continue stewing for about half an hour longer.
* * * * *
KUGEL AND COMMEAN.
Soak one pint of Spanish peas and one pint of Spanish beans all night
in three pints of water; take two marrow bones, a calf's-foot, and
three pounds of fine gravy-beef, crack the bones and tie them to
prevent the marrow escaping, and put all together into a pan; then
take one pound of flour, half a pound of shred suet, a little grated
nutmeg and ground ginger, cloves and allspice, one pound of coarse
brown sugar, and the crumb of a slice of bread, first soaked in water
and pressed dry, mix all these ingredients together into a paste,
grease a quart basin and put it in, covering the basin with a plate
set in the middle of the pan with the beans, meat, &c. Cover the pan
lightly down with coarse brown paper, and let it remain all the night
and the next day, (until required) in a baker's oven, when done, take
out the basin containing the pudding, and skim the fat from the gravy
which must be served as soup; the meat, &c., is extremely savory and
nutritious, but is not a very seemly dish for table. The pudding must
be turned out of the basin, and a sweet sauce flavored with lemon and
brandy is a fine addition.
* * * * *
SAUER KRAUT.
Boil about seven or eight pounds of beef, either brisket or a fillet
off the shoulder, in enough water to cover it, when it has boiled for
one hour, add as much sauer kraut, which is a German preparation,
as may be approved, it should then stew gently for four hours and be
served in a deep dish. The Germans are not very particular in removing
the fat, but it is more delicate by so doing.
* * * * *
BEEF WITH CELERY, AND WHITE BEANS AND PEAS.
Soak for twelve hours one pint of dried white peas, and half a pint of
the same kind of beans, they must be well soaked, and if very dry, may
require longer than twelve hours, put a nice piece of brisket of about
eight pounds weight in a stew-pan with the peas and beans, and three
heads of celery cut in small pieces, put water enough to cover, and
season with pepper and salt only, let it all stew slowly till the meat
is extremely tender and the peas and beans quite soft, then add four
large lumps of sugar and nearly a tea-cup of vinegar; this is a very
fine stew.
* * * * *
BEEF COLLOPS.
Cut thin slices off from any tender part, divide them into pieces of
the size of a wine biscuit, flatten and flour them, and lightly fry
in clarified fat, lay them in a stew-pan with good stock, season to
taste, have pickled gherkins chopped small, and add to the gravy a few
minutes before serving.
* * * * *
TO WARM COLD ROAST BEEF WHEN NOT SUFFICIENTLY DONE.
Cut it in slices, also slice some beetroot or cucumber and put them
in a saucepan with a little gravy which need not be strong, two
table-spoonsful of vinegar, one of oil, pepper, salt, a little chopped
lettuce and a few peas, simmer till the vegetables and meat are
sufficiently dressed.
* * * * *
TO HASH BEEF.
The meat should be put on the fire in a little broth or gravy, with
a little fried onion, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of ketchup, or any
other sauce at hand, let it simmer for about ten minutes, then mix in
a cup a little flour with a little of the gravy, and pour it into the
stewpan to thicken the rest; sippets of toast should be served with
hashes, a little port wine, a pinch of saffron, or a piece _chorisa_
may be considered great improvements.
* * * * *
STEAKS WITH CHESNUTS.
Take a fine thick steak, half fry it, then flour and place it in a
stewpan with a little good beef gravy, season with cayenne pepper and
salt, when it has simmered for about ten minutes, add a quarter of a
hundred good chesnuts, peeled and the inner skin scraped off, let them
stew with the steak till well done, this is a very nice dish, a little
Espagnole sauce heightens the flavor.
* * * * *
A SIMPLE STEWED STEAK.
Put a fine steak in a stewpan with a large piece of clarified suet
or fat, and a couple of onions sliced, let the steak fry for a few
minutes, turning it several times; then cover the steak with gravy,
or even water will answer the purpose, with a tea-cup full of button
onions, or a Spanish onion sliced, a little lemon peel, pepper, salt,
and a little allspice; simmer till the steak is done, when the steak
must be removed and the gravy be carefully skimmed, then add to it a
little browning and a spoonful of mushroom ketchup; the steak must
be kept on a hot stove or returned to the stewpan to warm up. If the
gravy is not thick enough, stir in a little flour.
* * * * *
BRISKET STEWED WITH ONIONS AND RAISINS.
Stew about five pounds of brisket of beef in sufficient water to
cover, season with allspice, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and when nearly
done, add four large onions cut in pieces and half a pound of raisins
stoned, let them remain simmering till well done; and just before
serving, stir in a tea-spoonful of brown sugar and a table spoonful of
flour.
* * * * *
BRISKET STEWED.
Take about six or seven pounds of brisket of beef, place it in a
stewpan with only enough water to cover it, season with a little spice
tied in a bag; when the meat is tender and the spices sufficiently
extracted to make the gravy rich and strong, part of it must be
removed to another saucepan; have ready a variety of vegetables cut
into small shapes, such as turnips, carrots, mushrooms, cauliflowers,
or whatever may be in season; stew them gently till tender in the
gravy, the meat must then be glazed and the gravy poured in the dish,
and the vegetables arranged round.
* * * * *
BEEF RAGOUT.
Take a small well cut piece of lean beef, lard it with the fat
of smoked beef, and stew it with good gravy, highly seasoned with
allspice, cloves, pepper and salt; when the meat is well done remove
it from the gravy, which skim carefully and free from every particle
of fat, and add to it a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon, half
a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and a little mushroom ketchup; the
beef should be glazed when required to have an elegant appearance.
A few very small forcemeat balls must be poached in the gravy, which
must be poured over the meat, and the balls arranged round the dish;
this is a very savoury and pretty dish.
* * * * *
TO SALT BEEF.
This may be done by mixing a pound of common salt, half an ounce of
saltpetre and one ounce of coarse brown sugar, and rubbing the meat
well with it, daily for a fortnight or less, according to the weather,
and the degree of salt that the meat is required to have. Or by
boiling eight ounces of salt, eight ounces of sugar, and half an ounce
of saltpetre in two quarts of water, and pouring it over the meat, and
letting it stand in it for eight or ten days.
* * * * *
SPICED BEEF.
Take a fine thick piece of brisket of beef not fat, let it lay three
days in a pickle, as above, take it out and rub in a mixture of spices
consisting of equal quantities of ground all-spice, black pepper,
cloves, ginger and nutmegs, and a little brown sugar, repeat this
daily for a week, then cover it with pounded dried sweet herbs, roll
or tie it tightly, put it into a pan with very little water, and bake
slowly for eight hours, then take it out, untie it and put a heavy
weight upon it; this it a fine relish when eaten cold.
* * * * *
SMOKED BEEF.
As there are seldom conveniences in private kitchens for smoking
meats, it will generally be the best and cheapest plan to have them
ready prepared for cooking. All kinds of meats smoked and salted,
are to be met with in great perfection at all the Hebrew butchers.
_Chorisa_, that most refined and savoury of all sausages, is to be
also procured at the same places. It is not only excellent fried in
slices with poached eggs or stewed with rice, but imparts a delicious
flavor to stews, soups, and sauces, and is one of the most useful
resources of the Jewish kitchen.
* * * * *
A WHITE FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.
Take four or five pounds of breast of veal, or fillet from the
shoulder; stuff it with a finely flavoured veal stuffing and put it
into a stewpan with water sufficient to cover it, a calf's-foot cut
in pieces is sometimes added, season with one onion, a blade of mace,
white pepper and salt, and a sprig of parsley, stew the whole gently
until the meat is quite tender, then skim and strain the gravy and
stir in the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the juice of two lemons
previously mixed smoothly with a portion of the gravy, button
mushrooms, or pieces of celery stewed with the veal are sometimes
added by way of varying the flavor, egg and forcemeat balls garnish
the dish. When required to look elegant it should be pique.
* * * * *
A BROWN FRICASSEE.
Cut a breast of veal in pieces, fry them lightly and put them into a
stewpan with a good beef gravy, seasoned with white pepper, salt, a
couple of sliced onions (previously browned in a little oil), and a
piece of whole ginger, let it simmer very slowly for two hours taking
care to remove the scum or fat, have ready some rich forcemeat and
spread it about an inch thick over three cold hard boiled eggs, fry
these for a few moments and put them in the saucepan with the veal;
before serving, these balls should be cut in quarters, and the gravy
rendered more savory by the addition of lemon juice and half a glass
of white wine, or a table-spoonful of walnut liquor, if the gravy is
not sufficiently thick by long stewing, a little browned flour may be
stirred in.
* * * * *
CALF'S HEAD STEWED.
Clean and soak the head till the cheek-bone can be easily removed,
then parboil it and cut it into pieces of moderate size, and place
them in about a quart of stock made from shin of beef, the gravy must
be seasoned highly with eschalots, a small head of celery, a small
bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a carrot, a little mace, a dozen
cloves, a piece of lemon peel, and a sprig of parsley, salt and
pepper; it must be strained before the head is added, fine forcemeat
balls rolled in egg and fried are served in the dish, as well as small
fritters made with the brains; when ready for serving, a glass and
half of white wine and the juice of a lemon are added to the gravy.
* * * * *
CALVES-FEET WITH SPANISH SAUCE.
Having cleaned, boiled and split two fine feet, dip them into egg
and bread crumbs mixed with chopped parsley and chalot, a few ground
cloves, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, fry them a fine brown,
arrange them in the dish and pour the sauce over. Make the sauce in
the following manner: slice two fine Spanish onions, put them in a
saucepan, with some chopped truffles or mushrooms, a little suet,
cayenne and white pepper, salt, one or two small lumps of white sugar,
and let all simmer in some good strong stock till the gravy has nearly
boiled away, then stir in a wine glass of Madeira wine, and a little
lemon juice; it should then be returned to the saucepan, to be made
thoroughly hot before serving.
* * * * *
CALF'S FEET AU FRITUR.
Simmer them for four hours in water till the meat can be taken easily
from the bone, then cut them in handsome pieces, season with pepper
and salt, dip them in egg, and sprinkle thickly with grated bread
crumbs, and fry of a fine even brown; they may be served dry or with
any sauce that may be approved.
The liquor should continue to stew with the bones, and can be used for
jelly.
* * * * *
CALF'S FEET STEWED FOR INVALIDS.
Clean and soak a fine foot, put it on in very little water, let it
simmer till tender, then cut it in pieces, without removing the bone,
and continue stewing for three hours, till they become perfectly soft;
if the liquor boils away, add a little more water, but there should
not be more liquor than can be served in the dish with the foot; the
only seasoning requisite is a little salt and white pepper, and a
sprig of parsley, or a pinch of saffron to improve the appearance; a
little delicately-made thin egg sauce, with a flavor of lemon juice,
may be served in a sauce-tureen if approved; sippets of toast or well
boiled rice to garnish the dish, may also be added, and will not be an
unacceptable addition.
* * * * *
TENDONS OF VEAL.
This is a very fine and nutritious dish; cut from the bones of a
breast of veal the tendons which are round the front, trim and blanch
them, put them with slices of smoked beef into a stewpan with some
shavings of veal, a few herbs, a little sliced lemon, two or three
onions, and a little broth; they must simmer for seven or eight hours;
when done, thicken the gravy and add white wine and mushrooms and
egg-balls; a few peas with the tendons will be found excellent, a
piece of mint and a little white sugar will then be requisite.
* * * * *
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.
Take a piece from the shoulder, about three to four pounds, trim it
and form it into a well shaped even piece, the surface of which should
be quite smooth; _pique_ it thickly, put it into a stewpan with a
couple of onions, a carrot sliced, sweet herbs, two or three bay
leaves, a large piece of _chorissa_ or a slice of the root of a tongue
smoked, a little whole pepper and salt; cover it with a gravy made
from the trimmings of the veal, and stew till extremely tender, which
can be proved by probing it with a fine skewer, then reduce part of
the gravy to a glaze, glaze the meat with it and serve on a _puree_ of
vegetables.
* * * * *
COLLARED VEAL.
Remove the bones, gristle, &c., from a nice piece of veal, the breast
is the best part for the purpose; season the meat well with chopped
herbs, mace, pepper, and salt, then lay between the veal slices of
smoked tongue variegated with beetroot, chopped parsley, and hard
yolks of eggs, roll it up tightly in a cloth, simmer for some hours
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