Twixt France and Spain
by
E. Ernest Bilbrough
Part 4 out of 5
experiment would hardly be worth repetition. However, without mishap we
started on our return journey, and all went smoothly till the Villa
Noailles was again reached; but at this point we suddenly noticed that
Mrs. Blunt was rapidly out-distancing us. Whether the ancient steed
dreamt of its former youth and activity, and "grew young once more," or
whether its long rest had made it anxious to reach its stable, we know
not; but the unpleasant reality was forced upon us, that it was rapidly
bearing Mrs. Blunt away. Miss Blunt had been walking near the vehicle,
Mr. Sydney and rather behind; but as Miss Blunt started to run, we
rapidly followed, and overtook the steed, which, having by that time
pulled up at the bottom of the hill, appeared to be anxious to turn
round and have a look at Mrs. Blunt. As it neighed at the same time,
perhaps it was asking, "Who's my driver?" but this was mere conjecture
on our part, although we were not sorry to restore the animal to the
fat old lady--still knitting--and escort Mrs. Blunt back to the hotel,
none the worse for her little adventure!
[Illustration: SCENE I.--BEFORE THE START.]
[Illustration: SCENE 2.--THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE.]
[Illustration: SCENE 3.--WHO'S MY DRIVER?]
The favourite of the short drives is known as the "Tour des Lacs." It
embraces the prettiest country in the vicinity, and the whole distance
is about six miles. We found it most pleasant to start, after lunch,
from the Place de la Mairie, turning up the Rue Gambetta past the
market and on to the "Falaises," where the sea-breeze blows fresh and
free. Keeping to the right where the road forks, the "abattoir" was
soon left behind and the Villa Marbella reached; we then curved round
"Lac Chabiague," and ascending slightly between fields gay with the
"fleur des frontieres" [Footnote: A lovely blue flower, something like
a gentian.] and the wild daphne, we dipped again slightly to the point
where the road to St. Jean de Luz forks to the right. Bearing to the
left between hedges overgrown with _sarsaparilla_, and entering a
shady lane, a few minutes sufficed for us to reach the "Bois de
Boulogne," where the road skirts the Lake Mouriscot, and passes beside
many splendid clumps of the _Osmunda regalis_ fern. The lake is
very deep and full of fish; but bathing is certainly not advisable, as
there is a great quantity of reeds and weeds all round the water's
edge.
Leaving the pleasant woods, we emerged on to the Route Imperiale--the
direct road from the Negresse station (on the main line to Spain) to
Biarritz--and following it as far as the metals, we turned to the left
up the Irun-Bayonne route. This, however, was not our road for long, as
we took the first turning on the left-hand side up a pretty lane, which
brought Lake Marion into full view. The other end of the lane joins the
"Route Imperiale" again; which, leading in turn past the cemetery, the
parish church, and the terminus of the "steam tram-line," enters the
town near the International Bank.
It will be noticed that there are several ways of reaching Bayonne. The
cheapest and most expeditious, for marketing or other business
purposes, is by the narrow-gauge railway, with its curious double
carriages, one above the other. By driving the two miles to the
Negresse station, and catching the express from Spain, is another way,
but one not recommended to anybody but travellers [Footnote: Travellers
for the Pau line have to change at Bayonne, consequently it is simpler
for them to drive the five miles from Biarritz direct to Bayonne, than
drive two to the Negresse station, with the necessity of changing ten
minutes after entering the train.] going to stations on the line
between Bayonne and Paris. Of the three routes for driving we have
already mentioned the most frequented one--at the commencement of the
chapter; from the Negresse station by the Bayonne-Irun road is another;
and the last and prettiest passes behind the Villa Eugenie almost to
the lighthouse, but there branches off to the right past the Chambre
d'Amour inn, to the pine-woods near La Barre, and thence into Bayonne!
This drive may be prolonged in two directions: firstly, by crossing the
Nive and the Adour to the Guards' cemetery (where those who fell in the
sortie from Bayonne 1813-14, are buried) at St. Etienne; and secondly,
by following the bank of the river for some distance (past the market),
and turning up into the country by way of St. Pierre to the Croix de
Mouguere. This latter makes a splendid picnic, and the locality is a
rich hunting-ground for entomologists.
There are four other excursions that we must not omit to mention, viz.,
Cambo and the Pas de Roland, St. Jean de Luz, Fuenterabia, and San
Sebastien. All of these, with the exception of the first, can be
reached by _rail_, and as far as St. Jean de Luz the _road_
from Biarritz [Footnote: There is a more direct route to Cambo from
Bayonne.] is common to all; so that to save space we will only mention
it on our way to Cambo.
Starting at an early hour with plenty of provisions, we bowled down to
the Negresse station, crossed the line, and ascended the hill above
Lake Mouriscot, at the top of which Bidart--the first of the Basque
villages--comes into view.
Guetary (3 miles), standing on a hill to the southward, was next seen,
and in due time we reached St. Jean de Luz (8 miles), a town of over
4000 inhabitants (possessing a very good hotel and baths, and some
historical buildings), situated on a strip of sand between the River
Nivelle and the sea. Here the road to Cambo branched off to the left,
inland--the high road to Spain continuing near the seaboard--and
frequently skirting the Nivelle as far as St. Pee, we passed on by
Espelette to Cambo. The Hotel St. Martin there, which generally
attracts visitors for a few days at least, was not our destination; so
we took a glimpse at Fagalde's celebrated chocolate factory and the old
churchyard high above the river--while our horses were being
changed--and then resumed our journey to the Pas de Roland. [Footnote:
So-called from the fable that Roland, coming to the place and wishing
to cross, found the rocks barring his passage, so kicked them,
whereupon they parted for him to pass between.] The scenery now became
very charming, the winding river (Nive) adding much to the general
beauty, especially where it dashed out from between the rugged rocks of
the gorge with which Roland's name is associated.
After exploring this narrow pass we found a suitable place for luncheon
and sat down.
In returning, we halted near the village of Itsatsou, to gather some of
the lovely scarlet anemones [Footnote: A fee of 1 franc for one person,
or 2 francs for three, is expected for admission into the fields.]
which grow near there, and cover the fields with such a blaze of colour
as makes them conspicuous from a long distance. The rest of the journey
in the cool of the afternoon was very pleasant, but our route was the
same till reaching Bidart, where we curved to the left, and came by a
branch road (previously mentioned), _via_ the Villa Marbella and
the Falaises, back to our hotel.
At dinner that night we noticed that there had evidently been some
"goings and comings" among the guests; and doubtless the new arrivals
were congratulating themselves on having succeeded in getting rooms in
the hotel--for be it understood this good house is nearly always full,
as it deserves to be. We missed with sorrow the familiar forms of Mr.
and Mrs. Berecasque, who, with all their bigoted hatred for anything
approaching to High Church notions, were as a rule exceedingly genial
and good-natured, as fat people usually are.
The ladies certainly used to say that Madame had a perplexing way of
putting leading questions as to why somebody's daughter went with
somebody else's son, or what on earth could that nice gentlemanly young
curate (Low Church of course) see in that fast young lady who was
always working banners and such like enormities? But we never noticed
this; though that which on this particular evening probably no one
could fail to notice was, that their places were now occupied by a
couple of beings as strikingly thin as Mr. and Mrs. Berecasque had been
fat. We were told their name, but there was rather a buzz of
conversation going on at the time, and we might not have caught it
properly, but it certainly sounded like "Grouser." However, that does
not matter much; what is far more to the point is the amusement that
Mr. Grouser gave to those who had the privilege of sitting near him.
Apparently a self-made man, without any children--who by better
educations might have helped him to knowledge--his acquaintance with
the French language was like a peasant child's with turtle-soup;
perhaps "a lick and a promise" would best explain it. But though only
knowing a few words, which he pronounced with the vilest of accents,
and then only when he had inserted his glass in his eye, he brought
them out with ludicrous frequency whenever he had the chance. Here are
examples--"_Hi garsong!_ bring me another plate!" "_Garsong
poorquar_ don't you fetch some bread when I've asked three times for
it?" "_Hi garsong! sil voo plate_, where are those potatoes?" And
so on all through dinner; while he appeared rather to enjoy the
merriment he caused, thinking he must have said something really good,
although of course he hadn't the slightest idea what it was!
To sketchers and lovers of contrasts a visit to Fuenterabia cannot fail
to prove a treat, and a better specimen of an old Spanish town it would
be difficult to find. The only convenient train in the morning thither
leaves early, and although we preferred driving, we made an early start
too, in order to spend a long day. Having accomplished the eight miles
and arrived at St. Jean de Luz, we had still a distance of 8 miles more
before reaching Hendaye, the frontier town. There were occasional
pretty bits of country to be seen, especially in the vicinity of
Urrugne (10-1/2 miles), a village in which the Spanish element is
noticeable, but the succession of poplars along the roadside all the
way--more or less--to Behobie, was very monotonous. At Behobie (14-1/2
miles) the road to Hendaye leaves the direct route to Spain and
branches off to the right. Following this, we were soon at the
frontier. Hendaye (16 miles) is celebrated for its cognac and a certain
liquor called by its name, as well as for an excellent beach and
bathing establishment, beyond which there is little worth mention.
Having put up the horses at the Hotel de France, we repaired to the
jetty, where happily the tide was high enough to permit of our being
ferried across, instead of carried on the back of some brawny (and
garlicky) native. As we were half-rowed, half-poled, down the narrow
winding channel of the Bidassoa, we were once again indubitably "'twixt
France and Spain," though the vicinity of the ancient Spanish town, and
the lazy sentinels on the river's bank, made the scene much more
Spanish than French. Once landed, we strolled slowly across the
"_Embarcadero_," and entered the town by the ancient gateway. The
principal street, which we then ascended, is indeed picturesque. The
miniature verandahs and overhanging roofs of the houses, the latter
approaching so close to one another as nearly to permit of shaking
hands across; an occasional bright costume appearing at the window or
on the verandah; the old church higher up the street, and the battered
"Castilio" at the top, furnished ample materials for a very pleasant
sketch. The church is well worth a visit, being very old and of
interesting appearance. Owing to its sheltered position it did not
suffer nearly as much as most of the buildings from the missiles in the
late Carlist war. We passed several groups of lazy soldiers, who leered
at us offensively and made some uncomplimentary remarks, but
otherwise--beyond the fact that the women stared a good deal when Miss
Blunt attempted to sketch--we met with no discourtesy. The new casino
proves an "extra" attraction in summer, but it is to be regretted that,
for gambling purposes alone, many people should be drawn to this quaint
old-world town, so worthy of a visit for its picturesqueness alone.
At the time when we wished to visit San Sebastien we learnt that the
"Citadol" was closed to visitors, owing to some foreigner having
foolishly lighted his cigar near a powder magazine. As the "Citadol" is
the chief attraction, we penned a highly polite letter to his
Excellency the Governor of the Province, asking for his permission to
visit this otherwise forbidden ground.
We received a most gracious reply, to the effect that, whenever we
liked to come, the place was at our disposal, and accordingly selected
the first fine morning for our trip. On this occasion we formed a party
large enough for a coach and four, but were very careful to avoid a
repetition of our Betharram experiences.
We discovered no new features of interest as far as Behobie, but the
day being very clear, we had a fine view of the distant Pyrenees and
the Spanish coastline from various points along the road. Passing
through Behobie's narrow streets and crossing the Bidassoa by the
strong stone bridge, we were only a minute "'twixt France and Spain,"
and entering Irun found ourselves in the hands of the Customs
authorities. Having "nothing to declare" and nothing contraband
undeclared, we were soon permitted to proceed, although our "cocher"
almost immediately afterwards stopped to change horses. Accordingly, we
walked on up a pretty lane with ivied walls, near which--in the
background--stood an old church. Finding a comfortable place for
lunching in the vicinity, we awaited the arrival of the coach, and
discussed our hamper before again moving on. Not having too much time,
however, we did not delay long, and remounting, bowled merrily along to
"Pasages." This was once the safest port on the coast, and in fact is
yet; but the accumulation of sand, &c., at the entrance, has made it
practically useless for any ships but those of very light draught. It
forms a tidal basin, and houses are built on its sides, along one of
which the road for some time skirts, but afterwards assumes a straight
course and descends into San Sebastien. From the highest point of the
road, before we commenced descending, we had a splendid view of the
town, which looked busy, imposing, and clean.
When once inside, we drove to the Hotel de Londres; then crossed the
street to the guardhouse, presented our "permit" for the "Citadol," and
after a little fuss and _red tapeism_--such as Spaniards, even
more than Frenchmen, dearly love--under the guidance of a soldier,
commenced the ascent. How many times we presented our "carta" we know
not, but at every turn some official was ready to ask to see it, and
this business took almost as long as the actual mounting, though in the
end we did manage to reach the summit. The view from thence was very
fine, extending for miles in all directions, but after enjoying it for
a short time, we descended to visit the graves of the English who fell
in defending the place in 1836 against the Carlists, which lie in a
little cemetery on one side of the hill. Maiden-hair ferns grow among
the rocks by the path, which from time to time discloses views of the
town and the pretty rocky island--Santa Clara--in the bay. After
descending, we had time for a glimpse at the interior of the church of
Santa Maria and the bull-ring, as well as a stroll along the beautiful
beach, before it was necessary to start homewards, and when at length
we were deposited in safety at our hotel, we all acknowledged that the
day had been a very pleasant one indeed! With such enjoyable drives,
and the tennis, and the ever-changing sea, we never found time hang
heavily on our hands; and if we had, there was the little railway to
carry us into the bustle of Bayonne for shopping or listening to the
band, where _ennui_ would speedily have been driven away. Speaking
of this railway reminds us that at Anglet, one of the stations on the
line, there is a very interesting convent of "Silent Sisters" within
easy access from the train. Although it is a sad sight to see all these
women deluded with the notion that their sins, however great, could not
be pardoned without such a bitter expiation; yet the order and
cleanliness that is patent everywhere, and the gardens and greenhouses,
lend an attraction to the place in spite of its melancholy
associations. [Footnote: Visitors are expected to purchase a specimen
of the needlework exhibited to them, or at any rate to put a donation
in the convent box.]
When June has succeeded May, Biarritz begins to empty of its English
and American visitors, to give place in July to the Spaniards and
French. On the 15th of that month prices go up with a bound, often
becoming double and even treble what they were during the winter
season. This is the time to stroll on the "Plage" and watch the
bathing; to note the varied costumes, see the merry faces, and listen
to the children's laughter, mingled with the splash of the waves. But
we are only treating of spring, so must not encroach upon summer;
but--following our countrymen's example--bid "Au revoir" to Biarritz
before the glare forces us to parade the streets with blue spectacles
and double-lined parasols.
CHAPTER XIV.
CONCLUSION.
"Where duty leads"--Resorts in the Eastern Pyrenees--Caen--"Riou"--Our
paths diverge--"The Lesson of the Mountains"--Farewell.
Although we have in reality come to the end of our tour, and have
consequently no more places to discourse on, it may be suggested that
our task is but badly ended if we omit to mention such resorts as
Amelie, Vernet, Molitg, and other spots, which, if of less importance
than those we have visited, are nevertheless _in_ the Pyrenees.
That they are _in_ the Pyrenees cannot be disputed, but being in
the eastern portion, the way of reaching them from the resorts among
the western heights is so roundabout, that but few people would think
of visiting both. However, for the information of any intending
travellers, we have collected what reliable facts we could about the
above-mentioned places--as well as Capvern, Preste-les-Bains,
Panticosa, and a few others--which will be found in the general
information [Footnote: See Appendix A.] at the end of the volume, and
will, we trust, be of service.
We have but little left us now to do but to take our leave, though we
have one little incident to record, which, though it occurred far from
the Pyrenees, resulted, nevertheless, from our visit.
Travelling slowly homeward by the route through Normandy to Cherbourg,
we stopped a few days at the delightful town of Caen. While there--in
consequence of negotiations that had been carried on for some
time--Miss Blunt had her desires gratified by the arrival of a fine
Pyrenean puppy--like a small white bear with brown points--from
Cauterets, one of the identical pair about which we had such a lively
scene with the old French fancier. He was christened "Riou," after the
Col of that name, and his owner has very kindly drawn his portrait among
his native hills, to adorn these pages.
[Illustration: "MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'RIOU.'"]
Our party did not break up till we reached Weymouth, but after that our
ways diverged. We were by no means glad to part, the memories of our
trip being very pleasant ones, and we can hardly think of a more
delightful way of spending a couple of months than in driving about
these beautiful mountains. The people are so pleasant, and hotels so
moderate (in the spring-time), and the country in the full beauty of
spring is at its best; and yet, as a rule, the few English and
Americans who do go, wait till the season begins, with its crowds,
heat, and extra expense, and the fiery sun has effectually cleared the
mountains of that snowy mantle which was their greatest charm.
We were once asked, "Are not the Pyrenees very bare mountains, without
any trees or herbage?" We could only repeat, what we have so often
asserted in this book, that the foliage on the mountain slopes is
magnificent, and their fertility and wealth of flora are of the highest
order.
They are indeed so beautiful in every way that they cannot fail to
touch many a chord in the heart of any lover of nature. At one moment
hid in mists, at another clear and stately under a cloudless sky; in
winter, wrapped completely in their garb of snow, trees and grass and
rocks and all, only to reappear under spring's influence, still
retaining their snowy crown, but with their slopes bright with the
contrasting tints of beech and fir, oak and maple, interspersed with
banks of bright gentian and fields of golden daffodils; what could be
more lovely than a scene such as this, with the morning sun gilding the
snow summits, or the last rays of a roseate sunset lingeringly bidding
them "Farewell"?
As we then follow their example, we do not think we could make a more
fitting ending than these lines, written amid those lovely scenes, and
entitled
"THE LESSON OF THE MOUNTAINS."
Look on yon mountain peaks,
Mark how each summit seeks
Upward to lift its crest, base earth to spurn.
Tow'ring above the plain,
Over the weak and vain,
Ever for realms of light seeming to yearn.
Look at each snowy crown,
Whiter than softest down,
Oh! in what majesty thus are they drest!
See how the setting sun
Kisses them one by one,
And slowly, solemnly, goes to his rest.
Look to the brilliant sky;
--Dark though the clouds be, nigh--
Wavelets of gold grandly float 'neath the blue.
Mark where the shades of green
Mingle with crimson's sheen,
Till evening's dread decree curtains the view.
Hark to the drenching rain!
Hark how it beats the pane!
While the fierce fitful blast sweeps on its course.
Fiercer yet swells the gale,
Hark to the long-drawn wail!
Tenfold more dire--in the darkness--its force.
* * * * *
See! morning's golden rays,
Breaking night's gloomy haze,
Tinge with a burning glow every proud height;
Storms beat on them in vain,
Steadfast they will remain,
Till the eternal day swallows up night.
* * * * *
So may thy soul aspire
Ever to climb up higher,
Spurning the world's delights, caring for none;
Shunning vain pomps and shows,
Seeking but calm repose
In the "Hereafter," when life is done.
[Illustration: "See! morning's golden rays, Breaking night's gloomy
haze, Tinge with a burning glow every proud height."]
So may'st thou yearn to wear,
Like ev'ry angel there,
Vestment as pure as snow, spotlessly white;
And on thy face to shine
That radiancy divine,
God's own unquenchable, immortal light.
[Illustration]
And, if life's courses seem
Pleasant, like some sweet dream,
Be thou beware of the evils around:
Paths seeming paved with gold
Oft mighty sins enfold,
Oft where the sea looks still, quicksands abound.
Or should the trials come,
Shatt'ring thy earthly home,
Dashing fond hopes and despoiling thy life:
Meekly thy burden bear
To Jesus' throne, and there
Thou wilt find rest and help--strength for the strife.
Then, when Heav'n's morning breaks,
And ev'ry soul forsakes
This baser earth, and flies to its last rest,
Chastened by cold and heat,
Wash'd by the storms that beat,
Oh, may thy spirit soar 'mid God's own blest!
THE END.
APPENDIX A.
GENERAL INFORMATION CONCERNING THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS AND VILLAGES IN THE
PYRENEES, INCLUDING NOTES ON THE MEDICAL PROPERTIES OF THE BATHS AT THE
CHIEF RESORTS, AND THE EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY.
N.B.--_The following sign (||) attached to hotels, &c., in this
portion of the book, signifies that the Author can personally give his
recommendation._
AMELIE-LES-BAINS [Footnote: For routes thither see Appendix B.]
(678 ft.), on the River Tech, in the Eastern Pyrenees. A winter resort,
with a dry, clear air, tonic and slightly irritant, and a mean
temperature during the months of January, February, and March (taken
collectively) of 48-1/3 deg. Fahr. The average number of fine days in the
year is 210. The baths are naturally heated from 100 deg. to 144 deg.,
according to the distance from the source. They contain soda in
combination with sulphur, carbon, and silica, with a very small
proportion of the carbonates of iron and lime. They are recommended in
skin diseases, affections of the throat and kidneys, and for chronic
rheumatism. The season lasts throughout the year.
Bathing Establishments.--Thermes Pujade; Thermes Romains. With
hotel accommodation at both.
Hotels.--Pujade, Romains; Du Kursal, Farret, and Martinet.
Post and Telegraph Office, Cafes, Casino, Theatre, &c.--Living
is by no means expensive. In the first-named hotels the charge per diem
ought not to exceed 7frs. 50c. for "pension"; in the others it is
cheaper. The bathing establishments have excellent accommodation,
twenty-seven baths, a large swimming bath, inhaling rooms, etc.: There
are doctors in connection with the baths and others resident in the
town. The scenery around is very pretty, and rich in groves of olive,
cherry, cork, and fig trees, besides banks of heather and ferns, and
clusters of honeysuckle.
The Chief Excursions are:--
Prats de Mollo (2618 ft.), 12 1/2 miles by mule path--15 by
road; carriage (23 francs with pourboire) 5 1/4 hours.
Inns.--Maillard; Guin-Come.
Preste-les-Bains, 19 miles--8 1/2 hours; carriage 33 francs with
pourboire.
Roc de France (4698 ft.): splendid view; 6 1/2 hours there and
back. A stiff climb, fully compensated for by the expanse of scenery to
be seen from the summit.
Gouffre de la Fou, 4 hours there and back--guide necessary to
descend to the bottom of the "Gouffre," for which the "espadrilles"
(cord sandals) must be worn.
Col de Faitg, Massanet, 6 hours there and back--a very charming
and picturesque excursion.
La Junguera, 20 miles; carriage 23 francs, i.p. [Footnote:
i.p., including pourboire.] The first Spanish village over the
frontier; an interesting drive.
Le Pertus (958 ft.) 152 miles. There and back 6 hours. Carriage
23 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including pourboire.]
From Amelie to Perpignan, or vice versa, 23 1/2 miles; a
carriage with luggage costs 28 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including
pourboire.]
Carriages and Horses may be hired at Labrunie's or Victor
Olive's.
Guide.--Bertrand Oms at Aries.
ARCACHON [Footnote: The Chaplain, Mr. Radcliffe, has issued an
excellent guide-book for the locality.]--Situated in the forest, and on
the shores of the basin of the same name. The English season is in
winter, the French in summer. A favourite resort on account of its mild
and sedative climate. Most people live in villas in the forest during
the winter, where the strong winds are not felt, and where the mean
temperature is 50 deg. Fahr. The calmness of the atmosphere, and the strong
scent from the pines, has a beneficial tendency for those suffering
from chest complaints.
To those who find it relaxing, Biarritz is recommended as a suitable
change.
Hotels.--Grand (on the Plage), Continental, Grand du Foret, &c.
Pensions.--Villa Riquet || (Mons. Olle, proprietor), Villa
Montretout, Villa Peyronnet, and Villa Buffon.
Chaplain.--Rev. W. Radcliffe.
English Church, in the forest; services every Sunday.
Cabs, during the day from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. The course:
1-1/2 frs. with one horse; 2 frs. with two horses; by the hour, 2-1/2
and 3 frs. respectively.
Horses and Donkeys, 2 frs. and 1 fr. the hour, respectively.
Boats, from 2 frs. the hour, by arrangement.
Bankers and Money Changers.--Dubos and Mauriac, opposite Grand
Hotel.
Post and Telegraph Office, Chemists, Grocers, &c.
Casino.
Principal Drives and Excursion are:--
To Moulleau, 2 miles through the forest.
To La Teste, 3 miles.
To the Oyster Beds, in the centre of the bay, on the Ile des
Oiseaux.
To the Lighthouse at Cape Ferret, across the basin, whence the
Biscay can be seen.
To the Dune de la Grave by boat, and across the forest to La
Teste, visiting the giant trees (this must only be undertaken with an
experienced guide).
ARGELES (1528 ft.), on the River Azun, in the Hautes-Pyrenees;
with a genial climate that makes it a favourite resort very early in
the year. Some few people use it as a winter abode also. Living costs
"en pension" from 9 to 14 frs. per diem.
Hotels.--De France; D'Angleterre || (cheaper than the France).
Carriages.--At Limoges, || can be hired for the afternoon
--with one horse, 5 frs.; 2 horses, 8 frs.; 4 horses, 10 frs.; or by
the day, or for any special excursion.
Horses, also from M. Limoges. For the afternoon, 4 frs.; for the
day, 8 to 10 frs. (N.B.--These are spring prices, and not those of the
season.)
Chemist.--M. Buale, near the Post Office.
Post and Telegraph Office, and a few shops.
The Chief Excursions are:--
To the Villages of Ges, Serres, Salles, and Ourous--a lovely
ride, 2 hours; horses, 4 frs. each, pourboire, 1/2 fr.
Drive round the Valley, via Argeles station, the Chateau de
Beaucens, Pierrefitte, and St. Savin, 2 hours 30 min.; carriage with 4
horses, 11 frs. 50 c., i.p.
Le Balandrau (1729 ft.). Lovely walk; one hour there and back.
Pic de Pibeste (4548 ft.) An easy climb: splendid view from the
summit.
ARGELES-SUR-MER, 13-3/4 miles from Perpignan. In the midst of
fertile fields. Ruins of the Castle de Pujols in the vicinity.
Hotels.--D'Angleterre, De France.
ARLES-SUR-TECH (909 ft.), in the Eastern Pyrenees. Chief town of
the canton and the principal commercial centre in the Tech valley.
2-1/2 miles from Amelie, which was formerly known as Arles-les-Bains.
Trade with Algeria in apples; and in whip-handles with the whole of
France. Old twelfth-century church in the town; and outside, behind a
grating, lies the tomb of the Saints Abdon and Sennen.
Hotels.--Rousseau, Pujade.
ARREAU (2190 ft.), at the junction of the valley of Louron with
the Aure valley, in the "Hautes-Pyrenees," 23-3/4 miles from Bagneres
de Bigorre and 19-1/4 from Luchon, on the direct mountain road. (Route
Thermale.)
Hotels.--De France, || D'Angleterre.
Post and Telegraph Office, Chemist, Grocer, &c.
In the town are the Chapelle de St. Exupere, with a good view from the
belfry; the Church of Notre Dame; and the ancient market-place. There
are manganese mines in the vicinity.
Excursions to Cardiac, 2 miles. Sulphurous baths, with hotel
accommodation.
To the forest of Riou-majou and the falls of Mail-Blanc and Ejet. Over
the Col de Plan to the Spanish villages of St. Juan, Gestain, &c. Up
the Vallee de Lastie to the Monne de Luchon (7044 ft.).
ARRENS (2950 ft.), in the valley of Azun, in the High Pyrenees,
on the Route Thermale, between Eaux Bonnes (19 miles) and Argeles
(7-1/2 miles).
Hotels.--De France et de la Poste, De la Paix.
Guides.--Jean Lacoste, M. Gleyre.
Excursions (for which it is an excellent starting-point).--Mont
Baletous, 10,318 ft. (the most dangerous point for the ascent--from
Eaux Bonnes it is much easier), 4 hours to the summit. Guide absolutely
necessary.
Lac Miguelon and Pic d'Arrouy--11 hours there and back; a
much-recommended trip.
Pic de Cambales, 9 hours (9728 ft.); an easy ascension; recommended.
ARUDY, in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the direct road from Oloron to
Eaux Bonnes or Chaudes; 17-1/4 miles from Oloron and 2 from
Louvie-Juzon. Grotte d'Arudy in the vicinity.
ASPIN, a small village in the Aure valley, Hautes-Pyrenees,
below the Col of the same name, on the road between Bigorre and Luchon.
ASTE, a village at the entrance to the Gorge de Lheris, near
Bagneres de Bigorre--to which refer. Ruins of an ancient castle in
which Gabrielle d'Estrelle lived. Church of 16th century. Visited by
Pitton de Tounefort, the naturalist.
BAGNERES DE BIGORRE (1808 ft.), standing at the mouth of the fine
valley of Campan and the lesser one of Salut. It is one of the most
celebrated bathing resorts in the Pyrenees, and is very rich in
springs. The climate is mild, and while the season only lasts from the
1st of June to the 15th of October, several English make it a residence
all the year round. It is in a great measure protected from the winds,
though they blow occasionally strongly and chillily; snow is a rare
visitor in the town, and with Argeles it shares the honour of being
among the earliest "changes of air" from the warmth of Pau. There are
nearly 50 springs divided between 17 establishments, and there is
hardly any known or unknown malady for which they cannot be
recommended. They may be divided into four classes: 1st, saline; 2nd,
ferruginous; 3rd, saline and ferruginous; 4th, sulphurous. They are all
naturally heated. The temperature ranges from 64 deg. to 123 deg. Fahr.;
and amongst the hottest is the "Salies," which contains a certain limited
quantity of arsenic, and is only used for drinking purposes. It is said
to be beneficial in laryngitis, ulcerous diseases, and affections of
the mouth and throat.
The Principal Establishment is known as the Thermes de
Marie-Therese, and contains 7 different springs, and 38 baths of
Pyrenean marble. In the winter the price for a bath (simple) varies
from 1 fr. to 1 fr. 60 cents, including linen. For a douche-bath 1 fr.;
a footbath 60 cents; and for other varieties from 1 fr. 25 cents to 3
frs. Every visit to the drinking-fountain costs 10 cents. In summer a
simple bath costs from 1 fr. 25 cents to 2 frs., and douche-bath the
same, while the others range from 1 fr. 25 cents to 5 frs.
The other most important establishments are those of Grand Pre, Sante,
Salut, and Lassere, while the water of Labassere is brought daily to
the town for drinking purposes.
This water of Labassere is sulphurous, and is considered highly
beneficial in cases of chronic bronchial catarrh, congestion of the
lungs, pulmonary consumption, spasmodic coughs, skin diseases, and
chronic laryngitis. See Labassere in Appendix.
Grand Pre has three springs, in all of which iron is present;
two are naturally heated, and are considered efficacious in scrofulous
diseases, nervous rheumatism, and general debility. The other spring,
which is cold and used only for drinking purposes, has a decided tonic
action.
Sante possesses two sources, one of which is artificially
heated; they are of a saline nature. These are _par excellence_
the "Ladies' Springs," and have great efficacy in cases of overwork,
shock to the nervous system, general nervousness, and neuralgia.
Salut possesses three sources of different temperatures,
employed in baths and for drinking purposes, as well. Except in very
hot weather the water is inodorous, but its sedative properties have
placed it in the first rank. It has been used with great benefit in all
nervous complaints, hypochondria, hysteria, intestinal complaints,
indigestion, &c., its action being also diuretic.
Lasserre has one source only, slightly bitter and inodorous,
containing sulphate of magnesia, which renders its action laxative. It
is useful in cases of obesity, liver affections, and others of that
type.
For the other establishments and springs, which have likewise their
special uses, the reader is referred to the 'Guide to Bigorre,' and
Joanne's Guide-book to the Pyrenees.
Hotels.--Beau Sejour; Paris; De Londres et d'Angleterre; Du bon
Pasteur; Frascati; &c. &c.
Banker and Money Changer.--D. Ortalis, 16 Place
Lafayette.
Doctors.--(In summer only) Dr. Bagnall from Pau, Promenade St.
Martin. Dr. Couzier, 27 Rue du Theatre (all the year). Dr. Dejeau, 30
Allee de Coustous (ditto).
Chemists.--M. Nogues, Place Lafayette; and M. Jouaneton, 22
Place de Strasbourg.
Restaurant.--M. Vignes, Place Lafayette.
Nurses.--Les Soeurs de l'Esperance, 9 Avenue de Salut.
Draper.--Cornet, Allee des Constons, No. 22.
Grocer (selling English goods of all kinds).--M. Peltier, 5
Boulevard du College.
Confectioners.--Mdme. Cheval, Rue du Centre, 19. M. Toujas, No.
10 same street.
Carriages.--Courtade, Place des Pyrenees, No. 14; Pourponnet, 3
Rue Labrun.
Horses.--Bourdettes, 25 Place Lafayette.
There is service all the year in the small English Church, and the
present chaplain, the Rev. J. Grundy, M.A. Oxon., is always willing to
assist visitors in any way, and glad to accept the offer of their
services in the choir.
The cost of living in the winter averages 10 frs. in the best hotels,
and between 7 and 9 in others; but the prices rise considerably in
summer.
Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, Museum and
Reading-rooms in the town.
Guides.--Fages, senior and junior, 8 Rue de Lorry; Idrac, Rue
Longue; Arnaune, Rue de Lorry.
Principal Excursions:--[Footnote: For _full_ particulars of
these and all excursions, the reader is referred to P. Joanne's
'Pyrenees'; Mr. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees for Mountaineers'; and
Count Russell's 'Grandes Ascensions des Pyrenees' (French and
English).] To Aste, Gerde, Lourdes, Campan, Baudean, Ste. Marie, the
Col d'Aspin, and up the Bedat and the Monne. Refer to Chapter II, for
information.
Caesar's Camp, 2 hrs. there and back, by the village of Pouzac.
Les Allees dramatiques, 2 hrs. there and back, riding--3 hrs.
on foot; between the Bedat and the Monne, a pretty walk.
The Slate Quarries and Spring of Labassere, 6 hrs. there and
back; 1-1/4 hrs. to Labassere; 2 hrs. to the Quarries; 3 hrs. to the
Spring. Guide 6 frs.; horses 10 frs. each.
The Mont-Aigu, 10 hrs. there and back, guide 15 frs. The view
from the summit is immense; it extends over three valleys.
The Vallee de Lesponne and the "Lac bleu," 9 hrs. there and
back. Carriage-road to the end of valley; mulepath the remainder of the
way. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs.
Gripp (10 miles). Carriage-road all the way. Same road as far as
Ste. Marie as that to Col d'Aspin.
Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 6 hrs. 45 min. to the summit; Guide 6
frs., horse 10 frs. A magnificent excursion, but easier from Bareges.
Pene de l'Heris, 2 hrs. 45 min. to summit. A pleasant excursion.
Houn Blanquo, 9 hrs. there and back. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs.
A splendid mountain panorama in view, from the summit.
Puits de la Pindorle [Footnote: See footnote p. 226.]--a natural
ice-cave, spoken of by Mr. Packe as "unique in its kind in the
Pyrenees"--8 hrs. there and back. Guide and ropes necessary.
BAGNERES DE LUCHON (2065 ft.).--A lovely town in the Western
Pyrenees (Hautes), situated near the junction of the Pique with the
One, at the mouth of the Larboust valley, and in the western angle of
the valley of Luchon.
The most fashionable of all the Pyrenean watering-places.
Season.--1st of June to the end of October; but most charming in
May and early June.
The Bathing Establishment is a very ponderous building,
containing accommodation second to none. The springs are nearly all
naturally heated, varying from 103 deg. to 150 deg. Fahr.; they may be divided
into four classes: 1st, sodium sulphate; 2nd, saline; 3rd, bicarbonate
of iron; 4th, saline, but cold. The sulphur springs are considered the
best and most complete series known; and the iron are principally used
for drinking purposes. The waters of Luchon are considered specially
beneficial for chronic bronchitis, rheumatism (articular and muscular),
vesical catarrh, reopened wounds, fractures, scrofulous and cutaneous
affections, and ulcers. In cases where there are complications, nervous
excitement, or paralysis, a medical man should always be consulted
before venturing to bathe.
There is an iron spring near the Castelvieil, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon.
In the "Etablissement Thermal" the terms range from 60 cents to 4 frs.
There are baths of all kinds, and it is advisable, if the bather wishes
to bathe at any special time, that he should enter his name in the book
kept for that purpose, as soon as he arrives. In the season there is
always a great pressure of visitors, and otherwise the bather may have
to wait an hour or two for his turn. There was once a Museum
above the baths, this has now been removed to the splendid
Casino which stands in beautiful grounds, not far from the
Post and Telegraph Office--entrance I franc.
Hotels.--Canton, || Richelieu (very large but not recommended),
Grand, Bonnemaison, Paris, d'Angleterre, d'Etigny, de France, des
Bains, Monteil, du Parc, de la Paix.
Apartments.--Of all descriptions, in the Allee des Bains, Rue
Neuve, Cours d'Etigny, Allee des Veuves, &c. &c.
Doctors.--Several, both attached to the baths and independent.
Carriage and Horse Proprietors.--Almost innumerable, but Jean
Sanson is recommended, Rue d'Espagne.
Guides.--For the summits (French): Pierre Barrau, Rue de Pigue,
Aurillon, Lafon fils, Capdeville senior and junior, Fermin Barrau.
(Spanish) Francisco. For ordinary excursions and hunting: Jean and Luis
Sanson; Jean Brunet, chamois-hunter (recommended for all ascensions
from the Lac d'O).
Tariff for drinking the waters only.--During season, 8 days, 4
frs.; 20 days, 8 frs.; 30 days, 10 frs.
Carriage on Hire (from the stand).--The "course," 1 franc; the
hour, 3 frs. for one horse; and 1 fr. 30 cents, and 3 frs. 75 cents
respectively, for two horses--by day. By night, for one horse, 2 frs.
50 cents the "course," and 4 frs. the hour; for two horses, 3 frs. 25
cents and 5 frs. respectively.
For all excursions there is a recognised tariff, which may be seen at
the Mairie; and an excellent local guide-book and map is published for
2 frs. by Lafont.
The Chief Excursions:--
For Superbagneres (horses and guide 5 frs. each respectively,
hay on the summit 1 fr. out of the season, but 2 frs. more each person
in the season), Vallee du Lys (20 to 25 frs. for a landau), Bosost
(carriage _via_ St. Beat, 45 frs., horses via the Portillon 5 frs.
each, guide 6 frs.), Montauban (an easy walk), the Orphanage of Notre
Dame du Rocher (a short and pleasant walk), St. Mamet (little more than
1/2 mile), the Rue d'Enfer (an easy climb from the Vallee du Lys), the
Tour de Castelvieil (about two miles from Luchon), &c. &c. Refer to
Chapter X.
The Val d'Esquierry (4839 ft.), 11 miles.--Carriage-road as far
as Grange d'Astos (25 to 30 frs.) very rich in flora.
To the Hospice de Prance and the Cascades--des Demoiselles, et du
Parisien, 9 1/4 miles. Carriage-road all the way. Landau, 25 frs.;
but 4 frs. per seat in the Hospice diligence there and back.
To the Port de Venasque and the Pic de Sauvegarde, returning by
the Port de la Picade; 10 miles to the Port de Venasque--1 hour further
to the summit of the Pic de Sauvegarde; 11 miles from the Port de la
Picade to Luchon. Time, 10 to 11 hours there and back; but this fine
excursion is rendered more enjoyable by sleeping at the Hospice
(_vide_ above), and starting early next day for the summits.
The Valley Of Oueil and the village of Bourg (9 1/3
miles). Carriage there and back, 30 frs. From Bourg the Pic de
Montne can be ascended. Splendid sunrise view from summit. Guide
recommended if ascension is made by night; horses 7 frs., guides 10
frs.; or by day 7 frs.
Lac d'Oo (10 miles).--Carriage-road for 8 miles. Landau, 25 frs.
This lake, also called Seculejo, is full of salmon-trout, and there is
a very fine cascade (820 ft.) on the far side, to which visitors can be
ferried. Fare for one person 1 1/4 frs.--for more, an arrangement can
be made. There is a small toll levied on every person who visits
this lake--no matter whether they patronise the little inn or not!
Saint Beat.--By carriage 25 frs., or by rail to Marignac and
diligence afterwards (12 1/2 miles). Refer to Chapter XI.
L'Antenac.--6 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Horse and guide
each 6 frs. An enjoyable excursion; and the whole distance can be
ridden.
Pic Spijoles.--4 1/2 hours from the Lac d'Oo--a difficult
ascension.
Pic de Crabioules.--13 hours up and down. Guide necessary.
Splendid view.
Pic Quairat.--5 hours from the Lac d'Oo. Guide necessary.
Le Cecire.--8 hours up and down. Guide and horses 6 frs. each.
Pic Sacroux,--8 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Very fine
view.
The Peaks Bacanere and the Pales de Burat (11 3/4
miles).--9 hours there and back. Horses and guides from 5 to 8 frs.
each, according to season. One of the most charming of all the
excursions from Luchon.
L'Entecade.--7 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each. A
much-regimented climb. Splendid view from summit.
Pic de Poujastou.--8-1/2 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs.
each; an easy climb.
The Mont Maudits or Maladetta Group, the highest in the
range, including the Pic de Nethou (11,169 ft.), Pic 'du Milieu (11,044
ft.), Pic de la Maladetta (10,867 ft.), Pic d'Albe (10,761 ft.), and
the Pic Fourcanade (9456 ft.), are so difficult and perilous, and
require such excellent guides, that the reader is referred for
information to Mr. Packe's and Count Russell's books, previously
mentioned.
_Note_.--Carriages from Bigorre to Luchon, 43-1/2 miles,
_via_ Arreau, 80 to 100 frs., 5 to 10 frs. pourboire, out of the
season; 100 to 130 frs., and pourboire 10 frs., in the season.
BAREGES (4084 ft.), situated in a barren rocky gorge above Luz,
in the Hautes-Pyrenees. It may be called the "Old Soldier's Resort,"
as the waters are specially efficacious for gunshot wounds.
The fine Bathing Establishment contains 30 separate bath-rooms,
besides 3 douche-rooms, a spray-room, foot bath-room, &c. The springs
vary in heat from 71 deg. to 112 deg. Fahr., and are of a similar nature,
all containing large proportions of sulphur and baregine. Dr. Lee says,
"The water when drunk has a diuretic, diaphoretic, and expectorant
action; the bath, by its general and local stimulating properties,
cleanses foul ulcers,... promotes the exfoliation of carious portions
of bone and subsequent cicatrisation, and frequently causes foreign
bodies which have been long imbedded ... to make their way to the
surface." It is also highly beneficial for old bullet-wounds, neuralgic
affections, rheumatic pains, and stiff joints.
Hotels.--Del'Europe, De France, Des Pyrenees, Richelieu. Board
and lodging from 10 to 15 frs. per day in the season (15th of June to
September). No hotels open in winter, as the village is covered with
snow.
The Climate even in summer is variable--great heat is frequently
followed by great cold, necessitating the wearing of woollen
under-clothing, which should always be taken.
Bathing Tariff, &c.--Baths and douches from I fr. to 2 frs. 50
cents. For each visit to the drinking-room 5 cents; subscription for
one month, 10 frs.
Apartments.--One room, from 2 frs. 50 cents to 6 frs. per day,
according to position and size.
Doctors at the Establishment, a few independent, and others from
Luz.
[Illustration: TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN PANORAMA OF THE HIGHER PYREAN
CHAIN.----VIEW TAKEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE.]
Post and Telegraph Office in the season.
Carriages, Horses, and Asses in abundance; apply at the hotels.
Guides.--Of the 1st class: Bastien, Teinturier, Michael Pontis,
Menvielle, &c. &c. for the lofty peaks; several of the 2nd class for
minor excursions.
Chief Excursions::--
For the Promenade Horizontale and the Vallee de Lienz, refer to
Chapter VI.
Pic de Nere.--6 hrs. there and back. Beware of vipers.
Pic du Midi de Bigorre.--8 hrs. up and down. Guide and horses, 5
frs. each. The favourite excursion in the vicinity, and one of the
finest in the Pyrenees. The panorama which is annexed is on a fine day
truly magnificent. Horses can be taken to the summit, where there is an
excellent inn.
Lacs d'Escoubous.--2 hrs. to the Lac d'Escoubous; 2 hrs. 30 min.
to the Lac Blanc; 2 hrs. return. Guide 4 to 6 frs., horses ditto.
Pic d'Ayre.--6 to 7 hrs. up and down. Horses can be taken within
1/2 hr. of summit. Guide 6 frs., horses ditto.
Pic de Lienz.--5 hrs. up and down. A pleasant climb. See Chapter
VI.
Le Neouville.--12 hrs. by the Col d'Aure, there and back. Guide
necessary--10 frs. Splendid view over all the higher Pyrenees.
BAUDEAN.--A village in the Campan valley on the Route Thermale,
between Bigorre and Luchon, in the Hautes-Pyrenees.
BAYONNE.--City and first-class fortress in the Basses-Pyrenees,
on the Adour and the Nive, standing some 2 miles from the shores of the
terrible Biscay Bay. On the direct line from Bordeaux to Biarritz and
Spain.
Hotels.--St. Etienne, Du Commerce, Ambassadeurs, St. Martin, De
la Bilbaina, De la Guipuzcoaena, and Du Panier fleuri. Rail to Negresse
station for Biarritz; also narrow-gauge railway to Biarritz _via_
Anglet.
Splendid twin-towered cathedral, ancient fortifications, &c. Excellent
market and good shops, which are more reasonable than at Biarritz.
Post and Telegraph Office, English Vice-Consulate, &c.
Cabs.--The course 1 fr., the hour 2 frs. 25 cents and 50 cents
extra respectively for 2 horses.
Chocolate.--Fagalde.
Excursions to Cambo (10 miles), Croix de Mouguere, Lc., see Chapter
XIII.
BEHOBIE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the direct road
to Spain, 14-1/4 miles from Biarritz.
BETHARRAM.--A pleasantly-situated village in the
Basses-Pyrenees, once a favourite pilgrimage. There is a lovely bridge
in the vicinity, and the Via Crucis just midway between the village and
the bridge. It is situated on the direct road from Pau to Lourdes, and
is 15 miles distant from the former, and 9-1/4 from the latter. The
station on the railway, "Montaut-Betharram," is about 2 miles from the
village.
Inns.--De la Poste, De France. Celebrated grotto in the
vicinity.
BIARRITZ, a favourite English winter resort on the shores of
the Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrenees--2 miles from the Negresse station
on the direct line to Spain, and 130 miles from Bordeaux. Living during
the winter is considerably cheaper than at Pau, but the winds are much
stronger and the air more bracing. Biarritz makes a valuable change
from both Pau and Arcachon. It is free from epidemics, and beneficial
in cases of paralysis, as well as chest and heart complaints.
Hotels.--De Paris et de Londres, || Il Grand Hotel, D'Angleterre
(the favourite hotel with English people), Des Ambassadeurs, De France,
Il Des Princes, De l'Europe, De la Poste, &c.
Apartments.--All over the town, varying in price according to
position. Maison Brocq, || Maison Larrode, || Maison Broquedis.
English Pension.--Villa du Midi, || Rue des Champs.
Doctors.--Dr. Welby, || Rue Gambetta. Dr. Malpas; Dr.
Girdlestone.
Carriages.--Mauemus, || Place St. Eugenie. Larrondat, Place de la
Marie.
Libraries.--One in connection with the English Church. Lending
library at Victor Benquet's, Place de la Marie (stationer, Lc.).
Confectioners.--Figue, || Rue Mazagran; Miremont.|| Place de la
Marie.
Photographer.--P. Frois, Rue du Port Vieux.
Banker.--E. H. Bellairs, Esq. (Vice Consul), International
Bank.
"Depot Anglais," for wines, groceries, and English provisions,
&c.
English Club, Post and Telegraph Office.
For principal excursions refer to Chapter XIII.
BIDART.--The first Basque village, 3 miles from Biarritz on the
direct route to Spain--railway station, Bidart-Guetary.
BIELLE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the road to Eaux
Bonnes, in the Val d'Ossau, 18-1/4 miles from Pau. Inn, des Voyageurs.
BILHERES.--A village on the slopes of the Val d'Ossau, above
Bielle, in the Basses-Pyrenees--celebrated for the copper mines in the
vicinity. It lies in the direct track from the Val d'Ossau to the
Vallee d'Aspe.
BlLLERES.--A small village near Pau, in the Basses-Pyrenees on
the road to the ancient town of Lescar: the locally well-known "Bois de
Billeres" take their name from it.
BIZANOS.--A village below Pau, on the Gave, in the
Basses-Pyrenees, on the direct road to Lourdes.
BOO-SILHEN.--A village and railway station on the line from
Lourdes to Pierrefitte, in the Hautes-Pyrenees. There is the site of an
ancient camp in the vicinity.
BOSOST.--A village in Spain (18 miles from Luchon by the
Portillon), under the shadow of the Eastern Pyrenees, in the valley of
Aran. This is a most pleasing excursion from Luchon, either on
horseback via the Portillon, or in a carriage via St. Beat. See Chapter
X. Inn, Fonda d'Espana.
CAMBO.--A small picturesquely-situated bathing resort on the
banks of the Nive, 10 miles from Bayonne, in the Basses-Pyrenees. A
favourite excursion from Biarritz, with the extra attraction of good
fishing.
Bathing Establishment, with a hot sulphur and cold ferruginous
spring. The former has proved useful for its diuretic and laxative
qualities, and efficacious in cases of languor following long
illnesses: the latter is very rich in iron, and a useful tonic.
The Climate is exceedingly healthy in spring and autumn, but too
warm in summer.
Hotel.--St. Martin.
Chocolate Manufactory.--Monsieur Fagalde's.
Doctor.--M. Albert Dotezac.
Carriages, Horses, and Asses, at various rates.
CAMPAN (2192 ft.)--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees (3-3/4 miles
from Bigorre) situated in the valley of the same name--on the direct
road from Bigorre to Luchon; possesses an ancient church and
market-place.
CAPVERN.--A bathing resort in the Hautes-Pyrenees, built on a
hill two miles distant from the bathing establishments, which are
erected in a narrow ravine. One of the stations on the main line
between Toulouse and Pau, being 78 miles distant from the former and 56
from the latter. The climate is mild, and the season lasts from the 15th
of May to the 1st of November.
Two Bathing Establishments--De Hount-Caoudo and de Bouride. The
water principally contains sulphate of lime with a small proportion of
carbonate of iron: its action is diuretic and laxative. It is an
excellent and bracing tonic, stimulating to the digestion, and has also
been beneficially employed in cases of catarrh and certain liver
complaints. The Hount-Caoudo spring has an exciting tendency; that of
Bouride a sedative one.
Hotels.--Grand, Beau Sejour, De Fontaine, De la Paix, Des Bains, etc.
Post and Telegraph Office in the season. CASTETS.--A small
picturesquely-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrenees--off the high
road between Pau and Eaux Bonnes--under a mile from Louvie Juzon.
Lodging can be obtained at M. Fouga's.
CAUTERETS (3254 ft.)--A town situated in the gorge of the same name in
the Hautes-Pyrenees, seven miles distant from Pierrefitte, the terminus
of the line from Lourdes. It is said to be the most rich in mineral
waters of any resort in the Pyrenees. From its position in a hollow,
surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, it is frequently visited
with a good deal of rain, and the climate is subject to severe changes
in temperature, especially in spring, when the mornings and nights are
cold. The season proper begins about the middle of June and lasts to
the 15th of September. Living out of the season averages about 10 frs.
per diem, but is much greater when once July has arrived, and
consequently it is always best to write and make terms beforehand.
There are Nine Establishments for the Waters, among which twenty-four
springs are divided. The springs may be classed under two
heads--firstly, sodium sulphate; 2ndly, saline--both naturally heated.
The three most important establishments are--Les Oeufs, La Raillere,
and Les Thermes de Vieux Cesar. The others are--Le Rocher-Rieumiset,
Manhourat et Les Yeux, Pauze Vieux, Pauze Nouveaux, Petit St. Sauveur,
and Le Pre; in addition to which there are two "buvettes," known as
Buvette de Cesar and Le Bois. The waters at the Cesar Vieux are the
most exciting of all, and prove beneficial in scrofulous and cutaneous
affections, rheumatism, and tumours. Les Oeufs are specially
efficacious in lung complaints; La Raillere is used successfully in
affections of the respiratory passages; Mauhourat is specially
recommended to aid the digestion of La Raillere's water; while Les Yeux
are beneficial for affections of the eyes--as the name suggests. Le
Petit St. Sauveur is efficacious in cases of hysteria and similar
complaints.
Hotels.--Du Parc, || Continental, De France, Richelieu, Des Promenades,
Des Boulevards, De la Paix, De Londres, Des Bains, D'Angleterre, etc.
Apartments to be found in all parts. The price of a single-bedded room
varies from 3 to 10 frs. in the season. Much less at other times.
Doctors, in connection with the "Thermes," and many independent
ones.
Chemists.--J. Latapie and M. Broca--both in the Place St.
Martin.
Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse, Rue Cesar; Patisserie
Pyreneenne, Rue de la Raillere.
Horses and Carriages in plenty--good steeds at
Dominique's, Rue de la Raillere.
Guides.--Sarrettes, Clement Latour, Latapie, Barraga, Bordenare;
and also Berret, Lac Dominique, and Pont Dominique.
Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, &c. Tariff
for bathing, &c., similar to other resorts.
Horses for Excursions cost about 12 frs. for the day, for
an ordinary trip 6 frs.; and for a few hours' ride 4 to 5 frs., with 50
cents to the ostler.
Carriage from Argeles, 20 frs. with luggage; pourboire 3
frs.
The Chief Excursions are:--
To the Col de Riou.--Splendid view. Guide 6 frs., horses 6 frs.
Can be prolonged down the opposite side to St. Sauveur.
To the Cascade de Cerizey, Pont d'Espagne, and Lac de
Gaube.--Guides each 8 frs., horses 6 frs. The favourite trip.
Le Cabaliros.--6 hrs. up and down. Guide 10 frs., horses 10 frs.
Le Monne.--7 hrs. up and down. Horses and guide 10 frs. each,
donkey 8 frs. Splendid view.
Pic d'Enfer.--8-1/2 hrs. and 12 hrs. respectively by the two
routes. Good guides necessary--a difficult climb.
For the Vallee de Lutour refer to Chapter V. Pic
d'Ardiden.--9 hrs. Guide essential--an interesting climb.
Pic de Vignemale,--18 to 20 hrs. not including rests. Guides,
hatchets, and ropes necessary. Magnificent view from summit, but a very
difficult trip.
CIER-de-Luchon.--A small village in the Haute Garonne, 4-1/2
miles from Luchon on the railway from thence to Montrejeau.
CIERP.--A small village at the foot of a rock in the Pique
valley--dep. Haute-Garonne--near Marignac, station for St. Beat on the
line between Luchon and Montrejeau. COARBAZE.--A village in the
Basses-Pyrenees on the road between Pau and Lourdes. Railway station on
line connecting the above places; 10-1/2 miles from Pau. The ruins of a
castle in the neighbourhood, in which Henry IV. spent his childhood.
Refer to Chapter I. DAX.--A town on the Adour, and junction for
Bordeaux from the Bayonne and Pau lines. Celebrated for its baths,
which are of three kinds, steam, mud, and water. There are several
bathing establishments, but the Grand Etablissement is the best, where
board and lodging can be also obtained, at an all-round figure,
including baths, of from 10 to 15 frs. per diem. These baths are very
useful for affections of the larynx, articular enlargements, and most
kinds of rheumatism and neuralgia. When drunk the water has a tonic and
diuretic effect.
Hotels.--De la Paix, Du Nord, De France, Figaro, De l'Europe.
There are enjoyable walks about the town and some old ruins; and in the
vicinity a bed of fossil salt.
EAUX BONNES is a miniature Spa hemmed in by the sides of a
wooded gorge in the Basses-Pyrenees--27-1/2 miles from Pau and 6-1/4
from Eaux Chaudes; railway communication as far as Laruns ought now to
be established: refer to Chapter XII. The waters, hot and cold, consist
of five springs, sulphuret of sodium being largely present in all, and
sulphate of lime in a less degree. There are two establishments
--the Grand and the Ortech; but the former is far the most
commodious, though the water is used for drinking purposes almost
more than for bathing. The temperature varies in the different springs
from 54 deg. to 88 deg. Fahr. The waters are specially recommended in
cases of pulmonary consumption and affections of the air passages--also
for chronic maladies of the abdominal viscera, intermittent fevers,
hypochondria, and hysteria.
The Tariff is similar to that at the other Spas. Season,
July and August.
The Climate is mild, but warm in summer.
Hotels.--De France, || Princes, Empereurs, Richelieu, Poste,
Europe, Sallenave, Des Touristes, D'Espagne et d'Orient, De l'Univers,
etc.
Apartments all over the town. The following are a few of the
houses that let rooms:--Bonnecaze, Pomme, Berdou, Tourne. Living in
hotels during the season costs from 10 to 20 frs., according to
_etage,_ per diem.
Chemists.--Cazaux fils, and Tourne.
Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse.
Post and Telegraph Office.--The Route Thermale runs from
Eaux Bonnes to Argeles, 26-1/2 miles: see Chapter XII.
Doctors in connection with the baths, and independent ones.
Horses and Carriages at the hotels, etc.
Guides.--Orteig, Lanusse, and Jean Pierre for lofty summits; also
Maucor and Caillau, who, with Lanusse, are Horse proprietors
as well. It is necessary to bargain about prices, as there
is no fixed tariff, but 10 to 13 frs. per diem for ordinary
trips ought to suffice, without providing food--with food, 3 or 4 frs.
less.
The Chief Excursions are:--
For the Col de Gourzy and the Cascades du Valentin refer to Chapter
XII.
Pic de Ger.--10 to 12 hours there and back. Guide 20 frs. and
provisions necessary. Magnificent view.
Le Gabizos.--Whole day; provisions, liquor, and guide necessary.
A tiring climb, but one of the finest views in the Pyrenees.
Pic de Goupey.--7 hours up and down; guide necessary.
Pic de St. Mont.--9 hours up and down, easy climb, guide not
necessary.
Lacs d'Anglas et d'Uzious.--Guide and provisions necessary; a
whole day; splendid excursion.
EAUX CHAUDES.--Another miniature Spa--less contracted in its
position, but equally picturesquely situated in a wild gorge in the
Basses-Pyrenees, 27-1/2 miles from Pau. The climate is bracing, but on
account of the situation of the town it is not so good a residence for
invalids with chest complaints as Eaux Bonnes--as the wind sweeps up
the valley unchecked. It is, however, a glorious place for healthy
people to stay in, and a good centre for excursions.
The Bathing Establishment is a fine building with good accommodation.
There are seven important springs and two of less consequence;
and they partake of the same nature as those of Eaux Bonnes,
though the temperature extends about 10 deg. Fahr. higher. They are
largely charged with sulphur and lime, in combination with carbon and
soda, and have an exciting action. They are especially useful in cases
of catarrh, rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and neuralgia. The
"buvettes" of Baudot and Minvielle are largely patronised.
Hotels.--Baudot, || De France; and more expensive accommodation
at "L'Etablissement Thermal."
Prices are less than at Eaux Bonnes. In the season they range from 10
to 16 frs., but from 8 to 12 at other times, "En Pension."--For one day
or less than a week no fixed price can be quoted.
Doctors.--One in connection with the establishment.
Horses and Carriages to be obtained at the hotels or from the guides,
who are mostly horse proprietors.
Guides.--Camy, Labarthe, Larrouy, Eugene Olivan, Jean Sallenave.
Tariff not fixed, but 7 to 9 frs. per diem without providing food is
sufficient, and 5 to 8 frs. for horses--though this is only for
ordinary excursions and not perilous ones.
Bathing Tariff.--Similar to that of other Spas.
Chief Excursions are:--
Goust.--1 hour there and back; mule track.
Grotte des Eaux Chaudes.--2 hours there and back--for lights and
permit 1 fr. 50 c. each is charged, guide 2 frs.
Gabas and the Bious-Artigues.--See Chapter XII. Rather over 8
miles; carriage road to Gabas, fine and pleasant trip.
Baths of Panticosa.--13 to 15 hours by the mule track; a
favourite way into Spain.
To Huesca by Sallent and Jaca, a very lengthy trip, requiring
several days.
Pic Scarput.--10 hours up and down; a very fine climb.
Lac d'Artouste.--10 hours up and down; a viper region.
Pic d'Arriel.--10 hours up and down; an exceedingly fine view
from summit, but not an easy climb.
Le Balaitous--14 hours. For ascension only, it is necessary to
have good guides (at least two), as well as provisions, and to pass the
night on the mountain in the Cabanes near the Lac d'Artouste. A
difficult excursion, not unattended with considerable danger.
FONTARABIE (Fuenterabia, Sp.). A quaint old Spanish town on the
left bank of the Bidassoa, just across the frontier, well worthy of a
visit. About equidistant from the stations of Hendaye (Fr.) and Irun
(Sp.) on the direct line from Bordeaux to Madrid. A pleasant excursion
from Biarritz.
GABAS.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Eaux
Chaudes, near the famous plateau of the Bious-Artigues. Inn
accommodation can be had, and it is a good starting-point for several
excursions.
GAN.--A village in the Val d'Ossau in the Basses-Pyrenees, 5
miles from Pau. The road from Pau forks here, one branch leading to
Oloron (15-1/2 miles), the other to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes
(22-1/2 miles). There are some mosaics under a shed in the vicinity.
Hotel (such as it is), Des Voyageurs.
GAVARNIE (4380 ft.). An unpretentious village with good hotel
accommodation, situated among some of the most magnificent scenery in
the Hautes-Pyrenees, 13 miles from Luz. For full description of the
Cirque of Gavarnie refer to Chapter VIII., also for the Falls of
Marbore, 1380 ft.
Hotels.--Des Voyageurs;|| De la Cascade.
There are several Mountains to be ascended in the neighbourhood
requiring experienced guides; among which are Le Pimene, the Breche de
Roland, Le Taillon, Le Gabietou, Le Marbore, Pic d'Astazou, and the
Mont Perdu; but for further information the traveller is referred to
the previously recommended authorities.
No Guides have a better reputation than those of Gavarnie, and
of these Henri Passet and Celestin Passet have made all the great
ascents of the French and Spanish Pyrenees; Pierre Pujo, Pierre Brioul,
Poc, and Haurine are also men of experience in mountaineering.
[Illustration: CIRQUE OF THE VALLEE DU LYS NEAR BAGNERES-DE LUCHON.]
Horses to the Cirque, 2 frs. each. Guides, 2 frs. each.
Asses, 1 1/2 fr. each.
GAZOST-les-Bains.--A village in the Vallee du Nez, 7 1/3 miles
from Lugagnan (the nearest station), on the line between Pierrefitte
and Lourdes, in the Basses-Pyrenees. The baths, fed by four cold
sulphurous springs, are less than 3/4 of a mile from the village, where
there is a large sawmill. Very few people visit the baths, and they are
in a miserable state. There are copper, zinc, and argentiferous lead
mines in the neighbourhood.
Rooms at the Chalet de la Scieric.
GEDRE (3214 ft.).--A poor village in lovely scenery (see
engraving, page 122), on the side of a rocky gorge in the
Hautes-Pyrenees, 8 miles from Luz and 4 from Gavarnie, on the direct
road between the two.
Hotels.--Des Voyageurs, Palasset.
For information on the so-called Grotte de Gedre see Chapter VIII. The
two chief excursions from Gedre are those to the Vallee de Heas
and the Cirque de Troumouse, though they may be considered as one trip
here. From Gedre to the chapel of Heas 2 to 2 1/2 hours, from the
chapel to the fork of the road 1/2 hour, and from thence to the Cirque
1 hour. This is a very fine excursion, occasionally undertaken from Luz
and St. Sauveur.
GERDE.--A village in the Campan valley, in the Hautes-Pyrenees,
near Bigorre. Known chiefly for the _palomieres_ or pigeon traps
among the trees above it. See Chapter II.
GRIPP (3448 ft.).--A well-situated village in the
Hautes-Pyrenees, on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Bareges, 2
1/2 miles from Ste. Marie. Tourists often find the Hotel des Voyageurs
comfortable enough to keep them there for a few days. A little beyond
the village on the old road are the Baths of Bagnet, supplied by
a cold sulphurous spring; they do not, however, call for much mention.
The Falls of Garet are in the immediate vicinity.
GRUST.--A small village in the Hautes-Pyrenees. Refer to Sazos
in Appendix.
GUETARY.--A Basque village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 3 miles from
Biarritz. The railway station, Bidart-Guetary, on the line between
Bordeaux and Madrid, is not far from the village.
HEAS.--A hamlet in the Hautes-Pyrenees, five miles from Gedre
and eight from Gavarnie, by the Pimene.
Inn.--De la Munia, kept by Victor Chappelle, hunter; besides
whom, Jacques Canton and Francois Lavignolle, chamois-hunters, are
excellent guides. Chief excursion to the Cirque de Troumouse. See
Gedre.
HENDAYE.--The French frontier town on the Bay of Biscay in the
Basses-Pyrenees, known for the manufacture of a liqueur of the same
name. French Custom-house; station on the line between Bordeaux and
Madrid. Good beach and bathing. Boats can be hired to cross the
Bidassoa to Fuenterabia, at about 2 frs. for 3 persons; for information
concerning which see Chapter XIII.
Buffet at the station.
Money changed.
Hotels/.--De France, Du Commerce, Americani.
IRUN.--The Spanish frontier town and railway station on the
direct line between Bordeaux and Spain. Spanish Customhouse.
Buffet at the station, also a money changer.
Hotels.--Echenique, De Arupe.
IZESTE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, near Louvie-Juzon and
Arudy, on the road between Eaux Bonnes and Oloron.
JACA.--A fortified town of Spain on the banks of the Aragon,
521/2 miles from Oloron, on the direct route to Huesca, from
which it is 571/2 miles distant.
LABASSERE.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, celebrated for its
waters and slate quarries (refer to Bagneres de Bigorre). It is 11/2
hrs. distant from Bigorre; but its quarries take 1/2 hr. longer to
reach, and the springs 1 hour after that. The celebrated water is
bottled at the springs, but it is also sent in casks for use in
Bagneres de Bigorre.
LAMOTHE.--A small village in the Landes, 25 miles from Bordeaux.
Junction for Arcachon, 10 miles distant.
LARUNS.--An important though tumble-down village in the Val
d'Ossau, in the Basses-Pyrenees, 31/4 miles from Eaux Bonnes and the
same from Eaux Chaudes. The railway from Pau now extends to Laruns, 24
miles (see Chapter XII.), but the drive is more enjoyable, except on a
dusty day. The picturesque costumes of the Ossau valley may still be
seen occasionally at this village.
Hotels.--Des Touristes, Des Pyrenees. Living economical.
LESCAR.--An ancient and decaying town, 41/2 miles from Pau by
rail. Several interesting ruins, &c., for which refer to Chapter I.
LOURDES.--A town in the Hautes-Pyrenees, and railway station on
the direct line from Pau to Toulouse, and junction with the line to
Pierrefitte. The great Roman Catholic Pilgrimage, having now quite
eclipsed Betharram, much visited formerly as a shrine. The grotto where
the Virgin is supposed to have appeared is by the riverside. An
admirable panorama represents the scene at one of these imaginary
apparitions of the Virgin--known as Notre Dame de Lourdes, and always
represented in that connection with a blue sash. Five and twenty years
and superstition have transformed Lourdes from a little village into a
fair-sized town, overloaded with hotels, of which the traveller is
advised to be wary, especially during the pilgrim season, when the beds
are apt to have other occupants than the "weary traveller's form." The
Hotel des Pyrenees may be trusted.
Hotels.--Des Pyrenees || (Mons. R. Lacrampe); Latapie; De la
Grotte, De la Poste, De Paris, De l'Europe, De la Paix, D'Angleterre,
&c.
Excellent Carriages on hire in the town and at the hotels.
Excursions to the Lac de Lourdes, &c.
LOURES (1445 ft.).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 17 1/2
miles from Luchon and 3 from St. Bertrand de Comminges (see Chapter
XI.), for which it is the station on the railway between Luchon and
Montrejeau, and carriages await trains.
Hotels.--Pyrenees, Lassus.
LOUVIE-JUZON.--A village in the Val d'Ossau, Basses-Pyrenees, 16
miles from Pau, n. from Eaux Bonnes, and less than a mile from the
ruins of the ancient castle of Geloz. There is a curious old church in
the village, and the inn where the diligence daily halts is known as
the Hotel des Pyrenees.
LOUVIE SOUBIBON.--A small village at the foot of a mountain
worked for its slates, 4 miles from the above.
LUZ (2410 ft.).--A well-situated village in a fertile valley in
the Hautes-Pyrenees, 6 1/4 miles from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the
line to Lourdes, 1 1/4 from St. Sauveur, and 3 3/4 from Bareges. From
the last-named it receives water for its new Bathing Establishment (see
Bareges in Appendix).
Hotels.--De l'Univers, || Des Pyrenees, De l'Europe, &c.
Apartments may also be obtained. Living is not on the whole
expensive, but from July to September from 10 to 16 frs. may be
charged--much less at other times (say from 7 to 10).
Carriages and Horses, Asses and Guides can be
obtained for the various excursions (for which see St. Sauveur in
Appendix).
Post and Telegraph Office.
For description of the old Church of the Templars and the Chateau St.
Marie, &c., refer to Chapter VI. MAULEON-BAROUSSE.--In the
valley of Barousse, Hautes-Pyrenees, 3 1/4 miles from Salechan, on the
line between Montrejeau and Luchon; 4 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie (not to
be confounded with the Ste. Marie near Bigorre).
Inn.--M. Grillon's.
MOLITG-les-Bains (1480 ft.).--Built on a terrace above the
Castellane Gorge in the Pyrenees Orientales, 5-1/2 miles from Prades
and 31 from Perpignan.
The Bathing Establishments (of which there are three) are
situated a mile below the village, in the gorge, and they are supplied
by 10 springs of a similar nature, largely charged with sulphate of
soda, and of temperatures varying from 88 deg. to 100 deg. Fahr. The
water has emollient and sedative properties, slightly diuretic, and is
especially useful in diseases of the skin and nerves.
The Climate is very mild in winter, but hot in summer; and the
season extends from May to October.
Hotels.--The best accommodation is to be had at the bathing
establishments Barrere, Llupia, and Massia, all of which belong to M.
Massia, who is a doctor by profession.
Chief Excursions are:--
To Olette by the Gourgs de Nohedes (11 hours there and back).
To the Baths of Carcanieres (about 11 hours there _only_)
_via_ Mosset.
MONTAUBAN.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 1-1/2 miles from
Luchon (see Chapter X.), known for its church and cascade.
MONTGAILLARD.--A village on the banks of the Adour, in the
Hautes-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Bigorre: station on the line between
Bigorre and Tarbes.
MONTREJEAU.--A town standing on an eminence above the river in
the Haute-Garonne, junction for Luchon from the Pau-Toulouse line.
Hotels.--Leclair (fine situation); Pouget, well-known; &c.
Buffet at the station. Refer to Chapter XI. for further
information.
MORCENZ.--A town in the "Landes" district, 68 miles from
Bordeaux, and junction for the Tarbes-Bigorre line. There is a small
bathing establishment in the town, supplied by a cold chalybeate
spring; and a quarry of lithographic stone in the neighbourhood.
Buffet at station.
Inns.--Commerce, Ambassadeurs.
NAY.--An ancient village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on the left
bank of the Gave de Pau. Station, Coarraze-Nay, on the line from
Pau to Lourdes; 10-1/2 miles from the former and 14 from the latter.
Tanneries, &c., and ancient buildings. See Chapter I.
Inns.--Du Commerce, De France.
NEGRESSE.--The station for Biarritz (2 miles from the town), on
the direct line between Bordeaux and Madrid.
NESTALAS.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, near Pierrefitte;
the station being known as Pierrefitte-Nestalas, the terminus of the
line from Lourdes. Hotel accommodation at Pierrefitte (which see in
Appendix).
OLORON.--A town on a hill above the river of same name, in the
Basses-Pyrenees, 20 miles from Pau, by Gan and Belair. Its suburb
(across the river) Sainte Marie possesses a fine old church of the
Transition style. The railway was to be opened this year (1883) in
communication with Pau and Laruns. Oloron is celebrated for some
exquisite pottery, that can be bought in all the chief Pyrenean resorts
_except_ the town itself.
Hotels.--De la Poste, Des Voyageurs, De l'Aigle.
Oo.--A small village with an ancient church, in the
Haute-Garonne, 5-1/2 miles from Luchon, and 4-1/2 from the lake of the
same name.
Guide.--Jean Brunet.
ORTHEZ.--An ancient town situated on a hill above the Gave de
Pau, in the Basses-Pyrenees. The Tour de Moncade, in the vicinity, has
great historic interest, besides which there is an ancient bridge and
other remains of olden days (see Chapter I.). Coach to Salies (10
miles), and Mauleon-Licharre (27 miles).
Inns.--De la Belle-hotesse, Des Pyrenees, &c.
PAILLOLE (or Payole).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 11-1/4
miles from Bigorre, on the Route Thermale, _via_ the Col de
Peyresourde to Luchon. See Chapters I. and IX.
Inn.--De la Poste.
PANTICOSA.--A village in Spain, 24 miles from Cauterets,
celebrated for its waters. The bathing establishments are fed by four
springs of the sulphurous type. They are variously used for dyspepsia,
rheumatism, skin diseases, scrofula, and chronic (non-tubercular)
chest affections. They have a purgative and sedative action.
Hotels.--Accommodation can be best obtained in the nine
different bathing establishments belonging to the same proprietor;
there are also the D'Espagne and FrancoEspagnol.
Horses.--At about 5 to 7 francs per diem, at the Maison Borda.
Doctors.--Attached to the establishments.
PASAGES.--A village on the shores of a tidal bay in Spain, 30
miles from Bayonne and 6-1/4 from Irun. It was once the safest port in
the Biscay. Refer to Chapter XIII.
PAU (770 ft.).--A former capital, and most important town on the
right bank of the Gave of same name, in the Basses-Pyrenees. A
favourite winter resort with English and Americans, possessing hotels,
markets, and shops of the best and most varied descriptions. An
excellent starting-point for a tour in the Pyrenees. For history, &c.,
see Chapter I.
Hotels.--France, || Poste, || Gassion, De la Paix, Splendide
Bellevue, Beau Sejour, || Grand Continental, De Londres, Henri IV., &c.
Pensions.--Colbert, || Hattersly, Etcherbest, Lecour, &c.
Apartments.--All over the town.
Season.--1st of October to end of May.
Villas. Can be hired furnished, for the season, at prices
varying from L8 per month to L80.
Baths.--Rue Alexander Taylor, and 13 Rue d'Orleanb, &c.
Carriage Proprietors.--Ranguedat, || Crohare, || &c. Lc.
Horse Proprietors.--Estrade, || Peiho, || Lanusse.
T-Carts and Good Ponies.--Schuerch, Rue de la Fontaine.
English Churches.--Trinity Church, Rue des Temples; Christ
Church, Rue Serviez; St Andrew's Church, Rue Calas; Presbyterian
Church, Rue Montpensier.
Bankers.--Merillon, || will take English cheques, &c.; Mr.
Church, English Vice-Consul; Mr. M. Clay, U. S. ViceConsul; Tricou, &c.
Post and Telegraph Office, Reading--Rooms, Theatre, Casino,
&c.
English Club.--Place Royale.
For the principal Excursions and sports and pastimes, refer to
Chapter I.; for trips to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, refer to Chapter
XIII.
PAYOLE.--See Paillole in Appendix.
PERPIGNAN.--A large town on the river Tet, in the Pyrenees
Orientales, junction for Prades (station for Vernet), from the Toulouse
line and starting-point of the coach for Amelie; 132 miles from
Toulouse, 25 1/2 from Prades, 29 1/2 from Molitg, 32 1/2 from Vernet,
and 23 1/2 from Amelie. It is fortified; celebrated for its garnet
jewellery; and situated in a valley covered with groves of olive and
pomegranate, and fruitful vineyards. Cathedral; chateau (splendid view
from donjon tower) in the Citadol, entrance i fr.; theatre, Picture
Gallery, &c.
Hotels.--Grand, De France, De l'Europe, Du Petit Paris, &c.
Post and Telegraph Office.
The Chief Excursions are:--
La Salanque, the whole day, by carriage _via_ St. Laurent
de la Salanque; Torreilles; Ste. Marie and Villelongue de la Salanque.
Castell Rossello et Canet.--6 1/4 miles; carriage-road part of
the way.
PEYREHORADE.--Village in the Landes, and station on the line
between Puyoo (13 miles) and Bayonne (19 miles).
Inns.--Lafond Des Voyageurs.
PIERREFITTE.[Footnote: The station is called
Pierrefitte-Nestalas.]--A village situated at the foot of the Pic de
Soulom and the Gorge de Cauterets in the Hautes Pyrenees. Terminus of
the railway line from Lourdes, and starting-point for the diligences to
Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, and Bareges.
Hotels.--De la Poste, || Des Pyrenees, De France. Living more
moderate than at any of the above-mentioned towns or Argeles. For
further information see Chapter IV.
PRESTE-LES-BAINS.--A bathing-resort in the Eastern Pyrenees, 19
miles from Amelie (to which refer in Appendix), and 42-1/2 from
Perpignan, the nearest railway station.
The Bathing Establishment is supplied by one sulphurous spring
only, partaking of much the same properties as the more celebrated ones
at the larger resorts, being specially beneficial, when drunk, for
lithiasis and catarrh of the bladder.
Hotel accommodation in the Bathing Establishment.
Season.--June to October.
PUYOO.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, one mile distant from
the station of same name; junction for Bayonne from the line between
Bordeaux and Pau; from which it is 11-1/2 miles and 32-1/2 miles
distant, respectively.
Hotels.--Lafont, Voyageurs.
REBENAC.--A village in the Val de Neez, Basses-Pyrenees, 10
miles from Pau, and 17-1/2 from Eaux Bonnes on the direct route,
between the two.
Inn.--Du Perigord.
SAINT AVENTIN (2805 ft.).--A village in the Haute-Garonne,
2-3/4 miles from Luchon, on the Route Thermale. Known for the chapel of
same name, to which a legend is attached.
SAINT BEAT.--A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3-1/4 miles from
Marignac, a station on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau, from
which it is 9-1/2 and 13 miles distant respectively. A favourite drive
from Luchon (see Chapter XI. and Luchon in Appendix), road to Viella
_via_ Bosost.
Inn.--Commerce.
SAINT BERTRAND DE COMMINGES.--An ancient Roman town in the
Haute-Garonne, 3 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau
line, For information respecting the old cathedral, &c., refer to
Chapter XI.
Inn.--De Comminges.
The Grotto de Gargas is in the vicinity. Guides must be hired at St.
Bertrand.
SAINT CHRISTAU.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, 5 miles from
Oloron, from which it is a lovely drive.
Two Bathing Establishments, fed by four sources, one of which is
calcareous, and the rest of a sulphurous nature. They are useful for
curing wounds, rheumatism, skin diseases, eczema, laryngitis, and
affections of the eyes.
Hotels.--Poste, Grand Turc, Mogul; also Chalets, and
rooms from 2 to 5 francs per diem.
There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and excellent
fishing.
SAINTE MARIE (pres Bigorre).--A village in the Campan valley,
Hautes-Pyrenees, at the fork of the Route Thermale from Bigorre (see
Chapter II.). It is distant 7-1/2 miles from Bigorre, 17-1/2 from
Bareges by the Col de Tourmalet route, and 36 from Luchon by the Col
d'Aspin.
SAINTE MARIE (pres Oloron).--A suburb of Oloron, on the opposite
bank of the river Aspe. See Oloron in Appendix.
SAINTE MARIE (pres St. Laurent).--A small village on a hill in
the Eastern Pyrenees, 2-1/2 miles from St. Laurent de la Salanque, and
7-1/2 from Perpignan.
SAINTE MARIE (pres Salechan).--A small bathing resort, situated
in a lovely valley in the Hautes-Pyrenees about 1 mile from Salechan
station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line.
The Bathing Establishment is supplied by four cold springs,
containing sulphate of lime principally, but also small quantities of
magnesia and soda. The water is heated for bathing purposes, but drunk
in its natural state. It is tonic in its action, but diuretic and
purgative as well, and is used efficaciously in liver complaints,
dyspepsia, neuralgia, and nervous irritability. Hotel accommodation
in the Bathing Establishment and Apartments in the houses near it.
SAINT JEAN DE LUZ.--A watering-place on the Bay of Biscay, in
the Basses-Pyrenees, 8 miles from Biarritz, which it is very anxious to
outrival. It is well protected from the winds, but is less free from
dampness in its climate on the same account. It possesses an old church
and several historical buildings, and is one of the favourite drives
from Biarritz. Refer to Chapter XIII.
Hotels.--De la Poste, De France, D'Angleterre et de la Plage, De
l'Ocean, De Madrid.
Apartments and Houses furnished in the town.
Sea-Bathing Establishment, Casino, &c.
SAINT LAURENT DE LA SALANQUE.--A town in the Eastern Pyrenees,
with a good agricultural and commercial industry, 8-3/4 miles from
Perpignan.
Hotels.--Got, Garriques.
SAINT MAMET.--A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3/4 mile from
Luchon (see Chapter X.). The church is interesting.
SAINT PE.--A village built on an eminence in the Hautes-Pyrenees,
and station on the railway between Pau and Lourdes, 18 miles from
the one and 6-1/4 from the other.
SAINT PEE-sur-Nivelles.--A village in the Basses-Pyrenees, on
the route between St. Jean de Luz and Cambo--8-3/4 miles from the
former, and 10 miles from the latter.
SAINT SAUVEUR (2525 ft.).--A bathing and mountain resort in the
Hautes-Pyrenees, 7 miles from Pierrefitte--the nearest station--1-1/4
from Luz, and 5 from Bareges. A most charming place for a spring or
summer residence, being beautifully situated and possessing numerous
pleasant walks in the vicinity. See Chapter VII.
Two Bathing Establishments, each supplied by one spring, in
which sulphuret of sodium predominates. The water is largely diuretic
in its action, having at the same time a tonic and anti-spasmodic
effect. Its sedative properties are beneficial to the nervous system
generally, and it proves useful in removing the after-effects of long
illnesses, haemorrhages, &c., besides being pleasant to the skin.
Hotels.--De France, || Des Bains, || Du Parc, Des Princes, De
Paris.
Guides (living at Luz).--Martin, Noguez, Fortanet, and Bernard
senior. For lofty summits, such as the Pic d'Ardiden, and for other
excursions, Lons, Pratdessus, and Cramp Brothers.
Horses may generally be obtained from them, and Carriages
(at Luz) as well.
Post and Telegraph during the season only, but letters
and telegrams are forwarded from Luz at other times, there being one
delivery and one collection of the former daily.
Chief Excursions:--
To Bareges.--10 to 15 frs. landau; 2 frs. pourboire. See Chapter
VI.
To Sazos and Grust.--See Chapter VII.
To Gavarnie.--Landau and four horses, 15 to 25 frs.; pourboire,
3 frs. Horses and guide to the Cirque, each 2 frs. from Gavarnie. See
Chapter VIII.
The Pic de Bergons.--4 frs. each horse, guide 5 frs. out of
season, 6 frs. each in season. Refer to Chapter VII.
The Pic de Viscos.--7 hours up and down. Guide 10 frs., horse 8
frs. Via Grust; a pleasant excursion.
Pic de Nere.--8 hours there and back. Horse 10 frs., guide 12
frs. Horse-track three-quarters of the way; an easy and pleasant climb.
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